AK, both fog lights are a loss...but the passenger side is more noticeable. Years ago I bought some GTS covers for the fogs on my 89 because I kept breaking them. Best money I could have spent! Let me know if you have some. Are they the factory Hella's?

Last night I discovered that when the PO removed the WP, he busted a bolt off in the TC cover and the block. I pretty much ruined the TC cover getting it out of there. It was nature welded so badly. I'm good with getting a new cover anyway, this one is easily the worst SBF that I've seen for oil caked on the outside of the motor. Also, when I turned the motor over by hand.... it was giving me a turn on the dizzy immediately. Made me think the chain was still good. After I took off the TC cover, it has A LOT of slop in it. More than any double chain SBF that I've ever seen.

My Buddy suggested using diesel to clean this motor of rust and carbon, and so far it's done a decent job. I had a line on a 302 block that was listed on the local Fox Body parts page, but last night he told me it's not a roller block - and I'm not OK with that.

 

Well bent up a hard line for my fuel line from pump to carb. Ive just been using a rubber hose since I havent really been driving around. I dont like having that much rubber so I went to make my own hardline to get back to factory. However after doing a ton of research everyone said 3/8" from tank to pump and 5/16" from pump to carb so I took off my 3/8" rubber line and bent up a 5/16" steel line. Went for a drive today and anytime I let the clutch out the truck almost died and seemed like it was starving for fuel. Put the 3/8" rubber line back on and all was good. SO did I screw up my bends and flatten the tube too much or put too severe of a bend in it? (I used a bender and it looks clean) or do I really just need that extra 1/16" of diameter and I should try bending up a 3/8" line? For now the rubber line will have to do cz this road trip is happening tonight either way. Ill have the steel line in the bed just in case I need it.

 

2100......Ford Big Block require fuel and I believe the 3/8 is correct for your truck. 5/16 on the SBF's,. If it runs well with 3/8 use it. Make sure you put an inline fuel filter in the system also. Being it's older than you, it's arteries aren't really clean, lol. There has to be rust there and it will get to the carb eventually. Better be safe early. Does yours have the fuel pump filter on it, or the base pump without it? Both were available for the 360/390/428 and even the later 460.

 

Don't get me wrong... I'm no expert, and this is a knee jerk response. But it may be enough, just less than what it is used to. You may just have to adjust the carb now to make it a bit richer.

Good luck on your trip!

 

I'll check on the fogs when I go to Sutton this week. I'll get some pictures of what is there still also, incase there is something that you might need or want from that box.

Marvel mystery oils wonders for cleaning up rust and ring blocking. It can sit on the piston top and an hour later be gone. It's goes right around and into the ringlands and cleans the rings so they won't damage the walls when removing the pistons later. I had a 64 Galaxie that came with a 427, 410. I took that engine and put it on a stand with Marvel in it, instead of oil. 11 years later I sold it to my old buddy who is a bigger Ford freak than me. It's in his boat now and has been for 16 years and still runs great to this day. The guy who rep'd Marvel and Radiator Specialties products gave me 2 gallons to use free. It kept that engine pristine and would roll over easily (as can be for a BBF Ford, lol).. I have been sold on that stuff since that day.

Another good old brand was Shaler branded Rislone. It would mix into the oil and protect. Stuff was funny as hell. If you added it to oil, the level never raise after 20 miles of driving. I never understood how you would add liquid to liquid and it would have the same amount of quantity that you started with after a short drive. They say it was absorbed by the molecules, but logic says differently. Anyway you cut it, that stuff was great back in it's day. No noisy lifters with that stuff. It cleaned all the gunk out of the old style Dino oils.

 

What color is the interior? I need a dash pad.... this looks like someone was gnawing on it.

Found one for 50 bucks new on Ebay though... so it might not be worth it with shipping it...

EDIT: I'm going to go buy another engine stand on my way home from work today. I'd like to get the motor pulled this weekend if my back will let me.

 

Fuel pump has the coke can filter attached to it and the carb has the brass inline filter screwed into it. I will probably find some 3/8" steel line once I move and get a hard line made up. Upon closer inspection one of my bends may have a slight kink in it... I dont know if the HF bender is good enough for steel. I may have to buy the bender from NAPA (not the crappy one I had to return but the hand bender). Not sure why it kinked as its barely a 90 degree bend and I took it slow. Oh well you live and learn I guess.

Yeah reference my response to AK, I think I kinked a bend and since I will have to remake the line anyway Ill just jump back up to 3/8 and just have that much extra fuel flowing. Might help with vaporlock too... or not lol but yeah just to play it safe ill just stay at 3/8. AK already helped me dial it in so I dont want to mess with the carb if I dont have to LOL.

and thanks for the well wishes, Ill try to update ya guys tonight if I survived or not but it might be a late trip.

 

FWIW, a 1972 Mercury with a 4bbl Motorcraft 4300 carb on a 390 had a 3\8 ths fuel line to the carb.

 

No two-tone. All hunter green, tinted windows, LX tails (keep), Cobra rear valence, LX tailpipes,1.5" drop, 5-lug conversion, and these wheels.


Sorry, guys, this is the first I've seen the thread in a number of days. Not getting notifications again for some reason. :/

..

 

My preference, the semi-gloss Highland Green.