**revised**

05 escape has no heat. Heater hose is hot, coolant level is full, praying it's not a clogged core

 

ROFL, - well it was the fresh water pump. It was leaking out of a crimped fitting. I found very little water and didn't need to repair anything. The nylon hose was pulled too tight at the fitting by me when I was working in another area previously. So , too much pressure strain at an angle and at the fitting caused an intermittent leak. It was most likley dripping slowly, then faster when the pump kicked on. I just slackened up the hose for now, no more leak. Btw, -it wasn't leaking when I got there, to get an idea how minor it was.

Yea, that could of been much worse, it slipped my mind to turn the pump off before I left. The pump maintains 45 psi in the lines. If the line would have broke, I could of had a 45 gallon water mess to clean up.

 

Man you guys have a lot of trouble with those escapes.

 

Nah.... they are really good vehicles. They have a couple flaws, but mine has just under 200,000 miles on it. I can't complain about that.

2100, when I had a no heat condition on mine, I thought I had a clogged core as well (in fact, I even flushed the core - but no change). Both hoses were hot to the touch, but a really lukewarm heater. Barely enough to even defrost the windows. Turned out that the thermostat was not closing all the way. How I found out was it finally started throwing a code. Weird thing was, the temp needle is in the same spot pretty much all the time at operating temp, so I never even suspected. The new stat has the thing blowing fire out of the vents now. IIRC, you have a 2.3 liter also. I strongly suggest you do the water pump while you are at it because the stat is a REALLY fun stat to replace..... If you need help with knowing what to do, I've got some pics I can dig up.

 

Same as white, I don't have many issues. Other than routine oil changes the only money I've spent on it was $8 for a tone ring and a new tire. 212,xxx in the clock and running strong (minus the heat lol)

Yeah I was hoping it was the t stat.... but I didn't know it was hard to reach lol. I have the V6 which I think is the 3.0L Yeah my engine temp stays normal too. We are getting up to 47 on Sunday so I might try the flush before I do the t stat... but sounds like that will be my next choice before replacing the core. My connection is crappy today cz i am getting some slope time in. I'll keep ya updated. Thanks for the help!

 

The thermostat on the 3.0 isn't too bad to get to.............as long as the previous owner didn't glue the housing together like on mine.

 

OK, the 3.0 is a little easier. On the 2.3 you have to pull the A/C compressor to get to it.... and the hoses/lines aren't very long, so you have to support it, etc.

Anyway, if you have Torque Pro, or something similar, you can go see what the temp is. Mine was 160-165 when it was throwing a code. Now it gets to 195-198. Very, very nice heater, lol.


----- My alternator is starting to make the headlights flicker. It is still the original, and I think it needs brushes. I will be getting to that pretty soon. I think the 2.3 is easier than the 3.0 for the alternator. I hear the CV axle needs to come out for the 3.0 alternators.

 

So Brew, I went and saw Satch last night. Dude is absolutely amazing. What an experience, and another thing to knock off the bucket list.

 

Yes, I would say it needs brushes. Well, I'm still using my original 3G Alt in the truck @ 340,000 miles. I replaced the first set of brushes at around 185,000 miles and they were almost gone. I'm not sure if your car wears the same, but it's a good bet you need a set lol.

 

I also need to get a couple sets for both of my 3G's in the F150 and Expy. Never done those either, and they are both over 200K now.


Wait.... I replaced the alternator in the Expy with a fairly new boneyard pick I found. Might be OK on that.