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But no, haven't used it with a picker or for an engine pull yet, just a peek mounted hoist.
You made a good decision with the longer and individual chains. There are situations where both chains hanging off a common center link is a PITA. One side of the chain is fighting the other. If I was doing it over again, I wouldn't make the choice again that I did.
I have one of those too River. I wouldn't have used it on the 5.4, we used a chain. I've been looking at the 6400 pound straps that HF carries. A couple guys in the Fox Body and Mustang page use these, and really like them.
I have an engine cradle like River posted, but when the engine on Red was taken out, they had to go with direct chains because the damn thing sits so far back in the bay. I watched them struggle with it, then just go over to chains. They worked better and by using 2, they could drop the back farther then use the jack to level it to the transmission. Worked fairly well.
With a regular configuration, these cradles are perfect and easy to use. I love mine, but like I said, on the deep seated motors, it's not an option.
I have an engine cradle like River posted, but when the engine on Red was taken out, they had to go with direct chains because the damn thing sits so far back in the bay. I watched them struggle with it, then just go over to chains. They worked better and by using 2, they could drop the back farther then use the jack to level it to the transmission. Worked fairly well.
With a regular configuration, these cradles are perfect and easy to use. I love mine, but like I said, on the deep seated motors, it's not an option.
Yep... even with the top of the radiator support cut it was a PITA to get that motor in that 2005.
I have one of those too River. I wouldn't have used it on the 5.4, we used a chain. I've been looking at the 6400 pound straps that HF carries. A couple guys in the Fox Body and Mustang page use these, and really like them.
Went to check the link out and got "Stop right there, we're doing an update." lol
How exactly did you use the chain? No need to reinvent the wheel.
May seem like a stupid question but I'm serious. If you're referring to the lift brackets that come on the engine, they're one of the problems that has me looking for alternatives.
BTW, If you know anyone making a trip to the sunrise side I can give you enough metal so you can make most of one for yourself. I'm not kidding when I say I have a lot of XXXX to get rid of.
I have an engine cradle like River posted, but when the engine on Red was taken out, they had to go with direct chains because the damn thing sits so far back in the bay. I watched them struggle with it, then just go over to chains. They worked better and by using 2, they could drop the back farther then use the jack to level it to the transmission. Worked fairly well.
With a regular configuration, these cradles are perfect and easy to use. I love mine, but like I said, on the deep seated motors, it's not an option.
With the front clip off the only obstruction I have to deal with is the lift brackets on the coyote, They really stick up and the passenger side bracket can get caught up in the shapes stamped in to the firewall.
You made a good decision with the longer and individual chains. There are situations where both chains hanging off a common center link is a PITA. One side of the chain is fighting the other. If I was doing it over again, I wouldn't make the choice again that I did.
Yea, I like it for what little I've used it. Very easy to manipulate load
Originally Posted by white89gt
Brew, I saw one of these, and have much want now....
I believe I have seen Brew recommend using only Motorcraft 5-20 syn blend on here instead of full syn. I have taken that advice and used it at my last oil change. I have searched a few different times trying find out why this would be better than full syn but of course I keep getting bogged down in nonsense and endless opinion based on someone's grandpa's, friend's uncle who invented motor oil or some other such B. S. If it is not too much trouble and I am not opening too big of a can of worms, could you please post a sentence or two on why Motorcraft is the way to go? I don't want to start a whole thing here, I just want to here from a trusted source and Brew is one I trust. Of course AK, White and others are trusted as well but I just remember it was Brew who mentioned the MC Syn Blend
I believe I have seen Brew recommend using only Motorcraft 5-20 syn blend on here instead of full syn. I have taken that advice and used it at my last oil change. I have searched a few different times trying find out why this would be better than full syn but of course I keep getting bogged down in nonsense and endless opinion based on someone's grandpa's, friend's uncle who invented motor oil or some other such B. S. If it is not too much trouble and I am not opening too big of a can of worms, could you please post a sentence or two on why Motorcraft is the way to go? I don't want to start a whole thing here, I just want to here from a trusted source and Brew is one I trust. Of course AK, White and others are trusted as well but I just remember it was Brew who mentioned the MC Syn Blend
Speaking for Ford which may not be a good idea but I think I can assume why they've made the decisions they have.
There's a really small window of time for the pressure and temperature for combustion to produce an exhaust that will meet mandated standards. For example, combustion creates carbon monoxide (CO) and water (H2O) if operating normally. There's a lot more going on but these fit this example. If pressure and temperature fall off to fast the CO will lose the time and conditions needed to steal some O from the water. This results in some of the CO loosing the environment needed to grab another O molecule and turning in to CO2. Deficient CO2 and excessive CO is a emissions standards failure. The ratio of deficiency to excessive depends on the failure in time, pressure and\or heat needed to meet the mandated standards. The faster the pressure and temperature falls the less CO2 will be created but says nothing about why or how the failure is existing. This is why sensor codes can come with a long list of troubleshooting steps.
Now why the recommended oil? Ford has spec'd an oil that they have determined can concurrently share and operate in the same space and environment as the exhaust\emission process and neither will effect or interfere with each other. When I was a kid there was a saying by parents that went like this, "Children should be seen, not heard." Ford has spec'd the oil to behave the same as we were as children. When everything as running as intended neither the emissions or the oil is offering up to the other any constituents that will effect or change what it is.
Obviously there is a lot more going on involving the engine oil but during combustion Ford's primary concern is with meeting, passing and hopefully exceeding the mandated EPA standards. Expanding the oils operating spaces to everywhere it is used to preform it's functions, the same processes are going on in each of the spaces unique environment. The same "seen but not heard" philosophy is expected from the oil as it travels through the engine except where the function has been designed to expand with additional requirements.