If you lifted from the head that's the info I was really after. On the Coyote, what's been tapped is in use but there are a bucket full of holes that have yet to be tapped. I was hoping to avoid touching them because the more I leave them alone and untouched the more options I will have in the end for front drives options and accessory locations. No offense but I was hoping to be dazzled with one of those, "why didn't I see that?" solutions.

 

There are some pretty big holes right in the head. That's what we used. Not a very good pic.... I thought I had a better one, sorry.




I am FINALLY ready to paint. I got a call today that the carpet arrived and he told me they can install it pretty quick, so hopefully this will come to a head really fast.

 

Ok I had to visit the starting fluid thread I've stayed out of for a while.... man is the same guy working on two different trucks!? Now this kid has tried some new random tests found new problems and wants to replace 4 different things...

 

LOL... two trucks or a split personality?


This one here though.... might be an all time fav.

https://www.f150forum.com/f6/loud-ba...verter-457268/

 

White,

"Ready to paint?" And yet nothing said about what's going on or went on to update us on your favorite contractor?

Don't see any fresh drywall primer on the walls or ceilings. That suggests you're going to be spending more quality time together. lol How did you handle your last opportunity to get some satisfaction with the guy? Something like, "Some unexpected expenses have come up and I don't have any choice but to postpone your final payment for I hope no longer than 6 weeks. 10 at the most." From your descriptions that would have ruined his day and ruined his.

What's the next project? The crater in your driveway?

That engine? It's huge. But, if it's still in a similar state can you grab a measurement from it for me? On the front of the engine crossmember there should be a notch or recessed impression near the center. With just a tape measure's precision what's the lateral but parallel distance from that notch to the centerline of the crank\harmonic balancer? The measurement should be the chassis-driveline offset.

BTW, my first quick impression of the engine without looking at it closer was, "What are you using the torch cut slab of plate set on end for?" Looked closer and realized what I was seeing was the radiator. Ooops.

EDIT: Some color choices you might like:

 

Full Synthetic is best with a new engine/vehicle from the start. Or an engine that you confirm isn't really that dirty

You don't want to use it, or switch to it rather - with high miles, abused or an engine in question. That's due to the additional cleaning action you get with full syn. You take a chance with partially plugging the pickup screen in that situation or worse.

Sticking to the Syn-Blend just works. Also make sure you use a good filter (FL820S). That's really all you need to do with these engines. You can use Motorcraft, Castrol etc afa name brand. I stick with Motorcraft on the filters tho.

 

Perfect! Thanks Brew. That's exactly what I was looking for.

 

"Stick with it"

As long as the choice meets the recommendations for specs, "stick with it" is the best advice to give. From someone worth listening to I was told. "Engines have personalities that need to be paid attention to. Grabbing the oil that's on sale is like a beer drinker deciding one day to grab a 5th of tequila instead of beer. How does that usually work out?" I'll never be able to consider an engine at the level of personality but I trust the advice.

Buck0, You asked about why the blend was recommended without all the nonsense. The specs are determined by the "equilibrium" of the constituents of the oil. I was working on pulling the basics of it for you from something else I've been work on. Are you still interested? If not remember this, there are some top of the line, quality oils in every oil section at the part stores that are a really bad choice for putting in a Modular. If anyone should ever try to convince you of using an out of spec oil because "in their opinion" it's a better oil for your engine," they're blowing smoke up your proverbial and they are clueless about the how's and why's of oil specs and how the specs are determined.

 

He finished last night. I only hired him to do the tape and mud. My first estimate was $1950, and this guy was $1150. I rolled the dice, dealt with him being late every day, and asking me to pay him early. I held my ground though, and all in all, I'm happy. I might have seemed a little overbearing to him because I watched him about 90% of the time. Not because I don't trust him, but because I was trying to pick up on tricks and techniques. I've got 3 more rooms that need done (4 if I decide to 'rock my furnace closet). So, for 800 dollars saved, it was worth it to deal with the rigmarole. I am going to prime it tonight, I hope.

The motor... it's just a 5.4 3V... I'll see what I can find out.

Also... I was merely responsible for the timing, and for the install of the motor in that picture, LOL. My Buddy did all the hacking, etc. I would have taken that A/C system out of there (that is what you are seeing, not the radiator). But, the A/C does work, so....

 

Thanks River. I appreciate your knowledge. I don't want to hijack this thread with an in depth discussion. I was just curious as to why Brew made the recommendation I have seen a couple times on here.