As long as I've been around 2V's, I have never once seen one of those cam sensors needing replaced. The crank sensor.... it's not THAT common that I'd go through all of the headache of removing it. I've only replaced one - and it was on a 3V (pretty much the same as a 2V). The A/C compressor was removed already when I swapped it out, and I honestly don't know that I could've done the job with it in there.

EDIT: OK, I missed your lack of spark post. Yeah - crank sensor is for sure where I'd start. That's way more suspect than a CPS.

 

So in other words, do the tests?

The R&R job will be 95% complete in order to do the tests.

 

Sweet... my cousin just hooked me up with a code to d/l his album he released today. Going to see about putting some into my vids

 

Depends on how quick you need the truck. If you need it right away. It's a hall effect style, so you can just check for around 1 volt A/C across the two pins (with the sensor harness removed). That's the quickest way to see if the sensor is bad. If you have "any" reading of .5 volt to 1.2 volts, while cranking, I'd call the sensor good, and move to wiring inspection.

 

Just a little tidbit I thought I'd share with you fellers. A guy at work has a 2014 with an Ecoboost. He did the water pump on it, and while he had it apart, he noticed the throttle body was a tad dirty. So he cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. It completely trashed it. It immediately threw a code, and wouldn't idle, etc. He wound up buying a new one to fix it.

 

Not really worth testing. If the crank or cam sensor is bad or fails, your truck won't run, start or fire at all until it's replaced. You won't have spark.

Definitely wouldn't replace them.

The problem is intermittent, not likley testing will help that. just inspect the crank sensor connector , locate it and with the truck running wiggle the connector... move the harness around as well. If there's a connection or short issue there the truck will stall or cut out.

Every Crank sensor fail I've seen in the past stalls the truck. It won't run again until it's replaced. I haven't seen a Cam sensor fail. If it does, same thing, you won't have spark.

Yea man, don't replace anything.

 

Geez... I missed it being intermittent. Glad Brew came in and cleaned that up. Those sensors are bad or good. Period.

 

Well that blows. Nothing can ever just be straightforward!

Well that's not true... the slip yoke repair was straightforward.

 

The repair manual says ours can't be cleaned. I thought, "whatever," as I proceeded to clean the **** out of it and it was fine.

 

Just an FYI... since it's a hall effect sensor, there is no voltage supplied by the ECU to that harness. It generates it's own voltage/signal.