When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
@Apples Any issues with going 2.1 on the Bilsteins and adding rear blocks to get a flat level? Or is the 1.75 setting the best route to go? I plan on doing 1.75 but I'm just curious as adding rear blocks is another cost and additional work haha. I see people doing both methods. But if wanting to lift the front AND back I'm thinking one should get a full on 4-6" lift and be done. I can't afford that but, 🤷♂️ my thoughts haha. Thanks!
Apples Any issues with going 2.1 on the Bilsteins and adding rear blocks to get a flat level?
Level when loaded and perhaps a little bit o' rake when empty should be fine. You're using the Bilstein 5100 up front within Bilstein's design parameters. Yer good to go.
Im hoping someone here can help me, I’ve found several conflicting reports about camber kits.
I recently had bilstein 5100s installed all around and on the highest setting up front. The shop that did the install had an alignment done and said that drivers side front camber at 1.5 degrees was the best they could do. All other adjustments met spec.
Today had new tires put on and another alignment at a different shop and the best they could do was 1 degree so we’re moving in the right direction but still not in the green, again all other adjustments still in spec.
Is the camber kit necessary or am I just unlucky enough to find two shops that are unable to meet spec?
Im hoping someone here can help me, I’ve found several conflicting reports about camber kits.
I recently had bilstein 5100s installed all around and on the highest setting up front. The shop that did the install had an alignment done and said that drivers side front camber at 1.5 degrees was the best they could do. All other adjustments met spec.
Today had new tires put on and another alignment at a different shop and the best they could do was 1 degree so we’re moving in the right direction but still not in the green, again all other adjustments still in spec.
Is the camber kit necessary or am I just unlucky enough to find two shops that are unable to meet spec?
Truck is a 2018 2.7 screw 4x4 w/ 25k miles
I didn't have any issues w/ alignment on mine. Had the alignment done at an off-road shop, so they're used to working with non-stock setups.
Im hoping someone here can help me, I’ve found several conflicting reports about camber kits.
I recently had bilstein 5100s installed all around and on the highest setting up front. The shop that did the install had an alignment done and said that drivers side front camber at 1.5 degrees was the best they could do. All other adjustments met spec.
Today had new tires put on and another alignment at a different shop and the best they could do was 1 degree so we’re moving in the right direction but still not in the green, again all other adjustments still in spec.
Is the camber kit necessary or am I just unlucky enough to find two shops that are unable to meet spec?
The reason for camber bolts is to allow for a slightly broader range of adjustment. Some trucks need them after the front suspension ride height is raised, some don't.
I paid $99 for two kits; one for each side. They go in the lower control arm front bushing location. Camber and caster adjustments are done at the same time if I'm not mistaken.
The reason for camber bolts is to allow for a slightly broader range of adjustment. Some trucks need them after the front suspension ride height is raised, some don't.
I paid $99 for two kits; one for each side. They go in the lower control arm front bushing location. Camber and caster adjustments are done at the same time if I'm not mistaken.
Thanks for including the link to the specs, I’m 1/4 of a degree away.
Are there any downsides to camber bolts to watch out for? Assuming they’re installed correctly...
I did the Moro Fab 2.5 in front and 1.5 in. The back. Couple thoughts:
did the whole undo the lower control arm, wasn’t too bad. Mechanically- definitely easier, but be prepared to use some muscle getting this in! I am beat!
second thought- why in the hell do they make the new U bolts so friggin long!!!! I cut one side, but that was a bitch also! So on the other side I spun a wrench while my impact tools laughed at me.
also I made this redneck stand to help work on the strut- and it helped to “rotate “ the strut bolts!👍
got the Raptor Takeoffs for a good deal, looks like I will get another year or 2 from them.
Hey People or Guys or what is appropriate these days...
I tried to get 5100's front and rear but they were on inter-galactic backorder. I went with Bilstein 6112s and 5160. My truck is still stock in the rear but the fronts are installed. I have Fuel 20x10 -18mm with 285 Nitto Terra Grappler's.
