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I originally went with the 1.76" setting (4th highest) and had very little rake. I wasn't crazy about the look because I do like some visual rake. I tow a trailer and 4 wheeler that's about 2,000 lbs. When hooked up, It was level according to the front and back wheel well measurements but it looked nose high. I took them out and lowered them to the 1.26" setting (3rd highest). Very happy with it now.
Asking because I'm honestly curious. Would it have been a good idea to add a block in the rear or am additional leaf spring to keep the 1.75" up front?
You can add to the rear suspension any one of many different devices. The first thing is to get the front of your truck up a little, but not topped out.
Do the front first, then you can fine-tune the rear.
So, some would argue that the preload the spring is under when captured within the confines of the spring saddles' highest setting causes the spring rate to increase.
First of all, the spring's in/lb rate should be linear. Secondly, once this bound spring on the fully-extended shock absorber/spring assembly (like a strut) is installed, the weight of the F150 should compress that a wee bit more.
There, now we're at a place where the front coil spring is again supporting the weight of the front of the truck. What's changed? Only the static ride height, and not due to an increase in spring rate, but due only to a re-position of the spring's saddle relative to the rest of the vehicle. Should "feel" the same as before, only with a higher c/g but with SUPERIOR damping! at all four corners.
(you will need a caster, camber and toe check afterwards)
I will guarantee! you that your truck's driving dynamics will feel vastly improved. You should be delighted. I cannot wait to hear your impressions after the first week. In fact, I'm happy for you. LOL.
Git R Dun!
Hmm, that's very interesting, and i hadn't really thought about it like that. So, i guess it does sound right that you'll still going to get some compression further than the highest spring perch/setting, it doesn't make sense you wouldn't - i wasn't aware of the linear spring rate, i think that is what makes the difference here.
Alignment afterwards is a no brainer, i'm assuming those 3 measurements are adjustable?
Hmm, and whilst i'm thinking about it; does that technically mean there is less up-travel of the wheel somehow, as the spring is already quite a way through it's own compression already?
Last edited by [F2C]MaDMaXX; Feb 5, 2021 at 11:58 AM.
Asking because I'm honestly curious. Would it have been a good idea to add a block in the rear or am additional leaf spring to keep the 1.75" up front?
Thanks!
I could have but didn't see the need to add height to the rear just to avoid removing the fronts and dropping them down a notch. The amount of rake from the factory is extreme imo. I understand it if towing something substantial but I do not. I wasn't really looking for a 'lift' but had to raise the front to allow for the wheel and tire combo (20x9 w/0 offset & 33x12.5 tires). The 1.26" setting is perfect for me... no rubbing and still retained some rake. It's all personal preference and everyone has their own opinion of what looks good and what doesn't.
Just ordered me a pair of 5100s for the rear. Off Amazon if anybody is looking.
The other day I was doing some sporty driving, hit an uneven part of pavement and it felt like the rear went a little squirrely so these should solve that issue.
Hmm, that's very interesting, and i hadn't really thought about it like that. So, i guess it does sound right that you'll still going to get some compression further than the highest spring perch/setting, it doesn't make sense you wouldn't - i wasn't aware of the linear spring rate, i think that is what makes the difference here.
Alignment afterwards is a no brainer, i'm assuming those 3 measurements are adjustable?
They are, however be advised you may need one camber correction bolt hardware for each side at $49 ea... that's what it cost me for parts. APC makes some. They replace the forward lower control arm bolt.
Hmm, and whilst i'm thinking about it; does that technically mean there is less up-travel of the wheel somehow, as the spring is already quite a way through it's own compression already?
No, I doubt that the front coils will bind in full suspension compression. Remember, Bilstein is a world-class designer and manufacturer of suspension dampers. They certainly did their homework. Folks with the new aluminum '15 F150s had to wait well past the estimated time-to-market on these latest 5100s while Bilstein sorted the calibration.
When you set the front lift higher, however, you will limit suspension downtravel. But we're not racing, so it's not a terribly big deal.
They are, however be advised you may need one camber correction bolt hardware for each side at $49 ea... that's what it cost me for parts. APC makes some. They replace the forward lower control arm bolt.
No, I doubt that the front coils will bind in full suspension compression. Remember, Bilstein is a world-class designer and manufacturer of suspension dampers. They certainly did their homework. Folks with the new aluminum '15 F150s had to wait well past the estimated time-to-market on these latest 5100s while Bilstein sorted the calibration.
When you set the front lift higher, however, you will limit suspension downtravel. But we're not racing, so it's not a terribly big deal.
Am i right in saying that at 2.25" it might make it too out of spec for factory components etc? other than the camber bolt? (thinking wear etc. here)
Alright, i feel it may have been you bamboozling me with the travel terms previously - will this limit suspension compression range, or extension range?
Being "topped out" at the highest possible setting will add to compression travel and limit suspension downtravel.
The sweet spot is 1.5 - 2.0" front lift (for a "level" with the factory rear ride height) with stock components. And now that I think about it, the limiting factor in downtravel may be the upper control arm contact with the coil spring. Some guys use aftermarket upper control arms, but then we venture beyond the factory bushings composition which may compromise the factory ride quality/NVH.
With the 13th gen trucks, anyway, 2" is about as high as they like to go before having to use the aftermarket UCA. After that, one might think of a 4" lift KIT and 35" tires. I'd like to do that if I could keep my factory-spec Bilstein 6112/5160 combo, but I don't think it's in the cards.
Ahh ok, thankyou - so we're talking suspension extension.
I'm trying to work out in my head why increasing preload would limit extension, is that something you know, or based upon interpretation of this picture i found?
It certainly seems to indicate that it might be less extension, but never mentions it on the shocksurplus page i found it on.
Now i'm guessing the 12th gen isn't really any different in the reasoning behind sticking to <= 2 inches of level? and i'm maybe better sticking to the 1.5" setting instead of going past that with the 2.25" setting?
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