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I've been doing some research and it seems that Stage 3 is unresponsive in this and other ford forums. I messaged them here as well but no response, their last posting was in 2023. Anyone have suggestions on where to reliably get the bilstein 5100s for the front? I can purchase all 4 but prefer to do the fronts for now only.
I've been doing some research and it seems that Stage 3 is unresponsive in this and other ford forums. I messaged them here as well but no response, their last posting was in 2023. Anyone have suggestions on where to reliably get the bilstein 5100s for the front? I can purchase all 4 but prefer to do the fronts for now only.
I've been doing some research and it seems that Stage 3 is unresponsive in this and other ford forums. I messaged them here as well but no response, their last posting was in 2023. Anyone have suggestions on where to reliably get the bilstein 5100s for the front? I can purchase all 4 but prefer to do the fronts for now only.
I picked my last set up from shock surplus. Good service
So I'm pretty picky (to be nice) about stuff I put on a truck. I wanted a Lincoln smooth ride on road and a nice ride through pot holes and wash board roads and found it. Mine are set 2.5" front and using 2.75" raptor blocks in the rear (note the cap sunk the rear 1/2" off the stock tremor and these blocks brought it back) https://halolifts.com/products/elka-...0-2021-current
I went with Bilstein 5100 at the second highest setting (1.76”) to avoid squatting when towing. This worked out pretty well but I did add Sumo Springs later to get a more stable experience.
I’m looking to do the exact same thing on my 2015. I’m going to put the 5100s on all four corners. I want to level the truck but I don’t want a reverse rake when I hook up the camper. Will the sumo springs prevent the reverse rake when towing? Which did you install? I don’t tow/haul heavy loads often but I dont want to use air bags(maintenance, needing a compressor, etc) and don’t want that reverse rake when I do. I appreciate the info.
So I may be blind, but I couldn't find an answer when searching this thread, so I'll ask. Sorry if it's been answered and I missed it.
If I want to do a 2 inch front level, Would doing that alone kill my gas mileage? I only want to level for the look.I have 20 inch OEM wheels/tires. When I do upgrade from the hankook tires that are on it now, I plan on going with Michelin Defender LTX M/S 2's.
I assumed that if people leveled and gas mileage dropped, that it was due to putting on larger/heavier tires.
Thanks.
If I want to do a 2 inch front level, Would doing that alone kill my gas mileage? I only want to level for the look.I have 20 inch OEM wheels/tires. When I do upgrade from the hankook tires that are on it now, I plan on going with Michelin Defender LTX M/S 2's. I assumed that if people leveled and gas mileage dropped, that it was due to putting on larger/heavier tires.
You are 99% correct, however a 2" level *might* add just this much --->||<--- additional aerodynamic resistance... even though you're not making the truck's actual frontal area any larger.
But, on the whole you are correct in figuring tire/wheel weight. Your choice of the Michelin... they don't make 'em much lighter (or thinner - don't expect much durability if offroading) than these... is a good one in your effort to preserve any fuel economy.
If you do not routinely carry any minor but significant weight in the bed then 2" will look about perfect. I haven't read any of your other posts anywhere so I don't know *how* you plan to achieve the level but I will strongly suggest you do it with a better, aftermarket damper (shock).
If you're going to have the front suspension taken apart and put back together simply to have a spacer puck installed above the stock shock-and-spring, it's only another $400 for a set of the amazing Bilstein 5100 and that's for four dampers. You'll be more than satisfied with how the truck will drive after that. Trust us. All of us know, not just me. It's totally worth the minor cost and the effort.
Of course with any method used to raise the front suspension static ride height you WILL want to have a front axle realignment. The wheel camber and caster will have changed. And the toe in, due to a ramification known as bump steer even though it's effects are minor in these modern rigs. You may also need to use a common aftermarket pair of lower control arm bolts known as "camber correction" bolts. Those can be $50 each, iirc.
And depending on your truck's mileage you may want to refresh the spring top isolator as well as the spring/strut* top mount, another $200 in parts. If greater than 75,000 miles, I'd consider it a must, just because.
*while these trucks do not use a MacPherson strut front suspension, the coil spring-and-shock are assembled as would be a MacPherson strut. The spring top mount for the F150 does not swivel/rotate, but it is an important fixture in the overall solidity of your truck's front suspension when considering suspension compression and rebound/extension.
