White....could you verify that your c/s has a 6 round pin and 2 round pin plugs on the ends please? A picture would be even better. After some searching, I find that the 94-98 Mustang may have the same plug ends, so hopefully with your information, I may of come up with the c/s I need to rob the ends and make it functional. Thanks in advance. AK

 

More air will change the PCM readings, so yes it will cause a slight modification of idle. Do the disconnect battery idea, pull on the headlights to drain residual power, wait a few minutes and reconnect the battery. It will now go thru the reset feature and readjust air/fuel to match under current conditions. It will take 50-100 miles to fully reset, but your idle will become smooth again, as long as their is no leaks.

 

So last night I pulled my negative battery cable and left it off all night. Idle was noticably bad this morning at first start up. I have driven it about 40 miles and it has gotten better. However, I am sitting at 14.1 for my long term fuel trim on both banks. How far from normal am i?

 

No telling until the whole system goes into the completed mode. At 40 miles, you still have a couple sensors incomplete readings, so go a few more miles and run a code check. If P1000 is not shown, you are up and running. If it still shows, it requires more mileage to reset completely.

 

Fair enough. Thank you AK.

 

AK is more knowledgeable than me by far, but if it stays at 14.1 long term fuel trim then something is definitely very wrong. I believe over a 10% will throw a code. Mine is at like 0.8% I believe and runs smooth as butter

 

Yeh i know what you mean. Mine was bouncing around 0 before I put the elbow on so I hope it can get back down there.

 

I don't mean to insult you, but are you sure everything is hooked back up correctly and no leaks? I did some work on my truck last year and when I was done it was running like crap. Turned out I accidentally tore a vacuum line open pretty bad

 

You're fine man. There is only one spot that could possibly be doing it and I'm going to cut it down tomorrow to give the band clamp more to catch on.

What's strange is that after I have driven it even a mile or so it evens out and the af ratios get better. I haven't had my Bluetooth dongle until now so I'll be running torque on my way to work tomorrow.

 

Jp, were you having these problems before installing that intake tube ? You know, I didn't notice this when you first posted the pic of it..scratch that, - rather I did notice but it didn't click until now. Anyway, that K&N isn't a straight 3". Which means air intake will be much more turbulent. I try to tell everyone how poor K&N is with engineering and design..they never cared about it. More less, they made the thing fit and look good.

There isn't enough data on the gen 10's, however there is with the gen 11's. To give you an idea of effect, with gen 11 3V's there is two aftermarket intakes. A 3" and a 3.5". You can run the 3" no problem with the factory tune but can not run the 3.5" unless your custom tuned. If you do, the engine will run dangerously lean. Dangerously lean means you'll blow the engine eventually.

The tube your running isn't one or the other and can do more harm than good IMO because of the flow trap you get with alternating diameters. The factory intakes work because Ford knows how to step it so that it isn't trapping.

Basically, anytime you mess with flow the diameter has to remain the same, same for exhaust (from the intake/exhaust theory, rule of thumb/ engine builders).