Thinking
Also , back when we were building are our own and cannibalizing intakes, the result, best set ups were the Volent and AFE's Air Force 1. These were interior polished direct 3 intakes. Pricey as hell, but understood why that was after awhile. Those guys were all about performance and followed intake/exhaust engineering to improve flight. 100% of the reasons for the 98 to pic up 6 seconds 0-80 and it's beastly low end for towing. Impressive set up after implementing proper set up that worked with one another. Air in Air out with a top notch PCV valve basically lol. I attempted to replace the 98 with an 01 some time back. But man, the 98 would tow circles around the 01 and much faster getting up to speed in all circumstances. I didn't feel like putting all the work into that 01 as I did the 98 so I broomed the 01. With the thought if I wanted better , to just purchase another diesel.
I should mention, I don't know if your running lean, I would think not unless your design is for another engine. But I do know it's a turbulent set and your not getting flow. Your flow is mushrooming just before the TB because of varying diameter and that isn't right...design flaw as far as intake flow, stepping and scavenging.
Hope your getting all this, I was ate up with at one time lol.
Main question here is, how was it running before you did this. Also adaptive strategy is more less a 5 minute ordeal. Well, it's 5 minutes that you can tell the engine is learning and that's at idle only. You are suppose to cold start, let it make initial adjustments/defaults until it reaches operating temps finishing with warm idle at 730 RPM's (between 700 and 750 but should be spot on 730 if the engine is healthy). Now your monitors will take awhile to run full circle, but you should notice that at all during the drivcycle. I messed around with this stuff plenty in the past with force runs and pursuing an education.
AK, you and Zebra no much more about following fuel trims. I've never followed , monitored or diagnosed using them. I know what they are lol, just never been in the predicament where there were needed for TS'ing. Not sure what 14% signifies, - not my area of expertise so that only comment I can honestly say about that...in case any of you were wondering...almost clueless.
I should mention, I don't know if your running lean, I would think not unless your design is for another engine. But I do know it's a turbulent set and your not getting flow. Your flow is mushrooming just before the TB because of varying diameter and that isn't right...design flaw as far as intake flow, stepping and scavenging.
Hope your getting all this, I was ate up with at one time lol.
Main question here is, how was it running before you did this. Also adaptive strategy is more less a 5 minute ordeal. Well, it's 5 minutes that you can tell the engine is learning and that's at idle only. You are suppose to cold start, let it make initial adjustments/defaults until it reaches operating temps finishing with warm idle at 730 RPM's (between 700 and 750 but should be spot on 730 if the engine is healthy). Now your monitors will take awhile to run full circle, but you should notice that at all during the drivcycle. I messed around with this stuff plenty in the past with force runs and pursuing an education.
AK, you and Zebra no much more about following fuel trims. I've never followed , monitored or diagnosed using them. I know what they are lol, just never been in the predicament where there were needed for TS'ing. Not sure what 14% signifies, - not my area of expertise so that only comment I can honestly say about that...in case any of you were wondering...almost clueless.
Last edited by Jbrew; Feb 1, 2017 at 09:40 PM.
Jp, were you having these problems before installing that intake tube ? You know, I didn't notice this when you first posted the pic of it..scratch that, - rather I did notice but it didn't click until now. Anyway, that K&N isn't a straight 3". Which means air intake will be much more turbulent. I try to tell everyone how poor K&N is with engineering and design..they never cared about it. More less, they made the thing fit and look good.
There isn't enough data on the gen 10's, however there is with the gen 11's. To give you an idea of effect, with gen 11 3V's there is two aftermarket intakes. A 3" and a 3.5". You can run the 3" no problem with the factory tune but can not run the 3.5" unless your custom tuned. If you do, the engine will run dangerously lean. Dangerously lean means you'll blow the engine eventually.
The tube your running isn't one or the other and can do more harm than good IMO because of the flow trap you get with alternating diameters. The factory intakes work because Ford knows how to step it so that it isn't trapping.
Basically, anytime you mess with flow the diameter has to remain the same, same for exhaust (from the intake/exhaust theory, rule of thumb/ engine builders).
There isn't enough data on the gen 10's, however there is with the gen 11's. To give you an idea of effect, with gen 11 3V's there is two aftermarket intakes. A 3" and a 3.5". You can run the 3" no problem with the factory tune but can not run the 3.5" unless your custom tuned. If you do, the engine will run dangerously lean. Dangerously lean means you'll blow the engine eventually.
The tube your running isn't one or the other and can do more harm than good IMO because of the flow trap you get with alternating diameters. The factory intakes work because Ford knows how to step it so that it isn't trapping.
Basically, anytime you mess with flow the diameter has to remain the same, same for exhaust (from the intake/exhaust theory, rule of thumb/ engine builders).
BTW- after realizing that only the Air Force 1 and Volant were the best choices, the Volant came out on top because of the slow radius and shorter tube. I traded my homemade intake that was created from a Pacsetter Y pipe, fitted with brass fittings and sensor ports, really turned out nice, just a little heavy being aluminized steel and brass to a guy that fell in love with it at first sight lol. Gave me his Volant and 50 bucks. Didn't look as nice, but wasn't bad. Sort of made out on that deal I guess, really liked the weight difference. Wasn't looking to profit, just flattered the guy liked it so much and diligent with attempts to have it under his hood lol. I could always make another anyway.
Any of you guys know anything about Smartphones. Never found a need for one so couldn't warrant one. Well actually I had the first IPhone that came out for road warrioring. Shattered it at some point and work from home now, don't travel that much. So yea it's been awhile seems like I've had this old dumb flip phone for ever. It's cheap, 42 a month I think. Anyway, my brother and sister in-law work for a corporation rated the best to work for in the US at some point. Pretty high up in the ranks and offered to add me to their family plan. I wouldn't be interested because there isn't a need to be, but the cost is the same so I might as well update.
Problem is, not sure what phone to choose. Don't want any problems but after looking at some of the Galaxys and reading through costumer complaints with their phones, not sure top of the line is really the way to go. All I want out of it is it to be fully torque app capable and to sync well with devices in newer vehicles, -the 98 as well once I modernize it. Something solid, any advice ?
BTW, - that old iphone still works and have a kit to fix it somewhere. I smacked with an axe chopping wood, grazed it anyway, just spidered the glass. Probably isn't worth fixing at this point but I did fire it up not long ago looking for old contact numbers...it went back in it's box after. Figured I'd throw that out there, see if it's worth firing up again. A stretch, but with the problems I'm seeing with newer phones....
Problem is, not sure what phone to choose. Don't want any problems but after looking at some of the Galaxys and reading through costumer complaints with their phones, not sure top of the line is really the way to go. All I want out of it is it to be fully torque app capable and to sync well with devices in newer vehicles, -the 98 as well once I modernize it. Something solid, any advice ?
BTW, - that old iphone still works and have a kit to fix it somewhere. I smacked with an axe chopping wood, grazed it anyway, just spidered the glass. Probably isn't worth fixing at this point but I did fire it up not long ago looking for old contact numbers...it went back in it's box after. Figured I'd throw that out there, see if it's worth firing up again. A stretch, but with the problems I'm seeing with newer phones....
Last edited by Jbrew; Feb 1, 2017 at 11:02 PM.
Originally Posted by jprevat
I was not having the troubles before. I am going to cut down the box like your pics and see what happens. If worse case scenario occurs and nothing changes I'll just grab another stocker.
Like I said in the other thread, that won't help with performance in anyway. That was just for making more room in the engines compartment and easy access to properly service the MAF by hand. But access to the MAF isn't really needed when run top of the line filter media. Every inspection I done in the 10 years the MAF remained clean and shiny. So that was more for roominess, plus it looks cool lol. I guess it's easier to troubleshoot as well. But honestly, when the intake is set up correctly, it pretty much illuminates the need for servicing. It's the total opposite with a charged filter set up (oiled). Where filtering, flow is always changing. A workout for adaptive strategy and yourself if your attempting to keep everything good with all that.
BTW- after realizing that only the Air Force 1 and Volant were the best choices, the Volant came out on top because of the slow radius and shorter tube. I traded my homemade intake that was created from a Pacsetter Y pipe, fitted with brass fittings and sensor ports, really turned out nice, just a little heavy being aluminized steel and brass to a guy that fell in love with it at first sight lol. Gave me his Volant and 50 bucks. Didn't look as nice, but wasn't bad. Sort of made out on that deal I guess, really liked the weight difference. Wasn't looking to profit, just flattered the guy liked it so much and diligent with attempts to have it under his hood lol. I could always make another anyway.
BTW- after realizing that only the Air Force 1 and Volant were the best choices, the Volant came out on top because of the slow radius and shorter tube. I traded my homemade intake that was created from a Pacsetter Y pipe, fitted with brass fittings and sensor ports, really turned out nice, just a little heavy being aluminized steel and brass to a guy that fell in love with it at first sight lol. Gave me his Volant and 50 bucks. Didn't look as nice, but wasn't bad. Sort of made out on that deal I guess, really liked the weight difference. Wasn't looking to profit, just flattered the guy liked it so much and diligent with attempts to have it under his hood lol. I could always make another anyway.
Brew.... if you are buying a phone to use Torque, Android is the only way to roll. I personally am a Samsung fan. I have a Galaxy 3 still.... I keep saying that as soon as there is something I want it to do that it won't I'll switch.
Great thanks a ton! Yea from what I've read, the older Notes were good. Best Buy has one of the older good versions available, but those are going so fast.. So I haven't looked yet, is Droid the name of phone? It's not like a Samsung or Motorola Droid is it ? Now you can tell how much I'm clueless lol, just gave it away ...durrr
Yeah, Motorola uses the name Droid. All phones named Droid are Moto's. Android is the OS which about anything but Apple runs. I even think the new Blackberry's coming out use Android. AFAIK, there is no Torque App for Apple, period (last time I checked). I heard the publisher didn't want to jump through the hoops to get it approved by Apple. Besides all that, Apple does not allow generic bluetooth devices to connect to them.









