Funny.... I just came to post this, Brew. I just ordered all of this.... I think I can come up with something here, LOL.

 

I don't like that top one unless you drill and tap the bottom for the sensor, otherwise your asking for sensor problem. The bottom fitting looks good, but you would have to do the same. Is that what your thinking ?

The sensor bulb must remain in the stream, no pockets.

BTW- I like how the fitting in center is 45'ed. You COULD use that for the manifold tap, if you plan on using a T elsewhere in a hose for the sensor. Just a thought to ponder.

 

The one on top is an inline tee that is tapped to 3/8 NPT already. The other two ends are for 5/8 hose. Ford actually used that setup on some of the 2.3 Fox Body's. I have one out in the shop, but it's kind of hammered. I am just getting a couple of options ready because I dont want to be waiting on stupid stuff like fittings and hoses. I got my heavy duty water pump bolt set today.... got the ARP header and head bolts too. Going to use the same grade 8 zinc coated intake bolts that I've used several times now.... but I can get those at Home Depot.

 

I know what they are, I was just pointing out what they aren't lol. Top fitting sensor bid is too far from the stream imo. If you use it and begin having sensor inconsistencies, that's why. The guy who fabricated whom you can't find new what he was doing, should mimic his thinking...as he's correct.

 

Ford did the same thing in the gen 10's that used an ECT and came up with a new fitting. They either copied the engineering from each other or just came up with on their own. Hope you realize what I'm referring too...otherwise it's a wash lol.

 

It would not be but a couple inches from the stock location.... Sensor bulb does sit in the stream.. probably 7/16 or 1/2 inch. Like I mentioned above, Ford used this exact setup on the 2.3's.

 

Ford used that water line insert in a number of their 70-80's cars. I think I still have a full SFB hard tube line kit and that exact fitting in a box of GEN 8 parts. So much crap, lol

2100....my buddy is working on 2 76 highboyx right now. They are motor swapping to a 390 and trans from MT to AT. Talk about a nightmare. lol. Nothing swaps directly like you would figure it would. Changing the columns also turned out to be a problem. The coupler needs an ujoint, and the MT one does not fit the AT end. Both truck made in 76, in San Jose CA. and are 8900 off in VIN. We found the front diff to be different styles. One a D6TA and the other a D3TA. Big difference. The latter uses wiper seals, and the D6 uses hard seals.

 

I think this might be what the Lincoln Town car used as well. I've seen it mentioned that the 5.0 Town Car setup is unique and can be made to work. I guess I could mosey on over to the JY and see what I can find, lol. I'll take a picture of the factory setup, and the bulb inside the pipe later tonight.

Man... I was typing last night, and BAM.... I was out. Must be tired.

 

General Mess......

 

I guess I didn't think about that being needed. Sounds like you're on your way to a solution.

Pull the entire nose to change a bulb??? That's surely a candidate for an LED/HID upgrade if it could be done correctly!

EDIT: Looks like you don't have to completely remove the nose, but good gawd! -- https://www.paulstravelpictures.com/...ide/index.html
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