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But the Gates shrink clamps, I'd like to try. Anything to do with hot fluid, having a clamp that expands under heat and pressure is the best. You definitely don't want a worm clamp, they are the worst UNLESS you use an expansion type worm clamp. They make them, I've used them, don't like them. They look terrible and don't have much clamping pressure.
BTW, I use the Milton because you can due trans lines with as well. I also use a hydraulic crimper for large and small. The Milton only goes up to 5/8 (some 5/8 / thin wall). The Hydralic crimper I use for everything, even battery cables, -
No.... just hand tight in there, lol. So they will suck in a bit.
This is what I would like to find.... there was a guy making these on moddedmustangs, but he has not logged on for 3 years.... so I doubt he's still around. But as you can see, it is a MUCH cleaner look. I also think he may have been making them from these:
I've never tried those shrink-fit "clamps." they look like factory ones I've cut off, though. Looks like clean solution.
If you're not going to run a heater core, why not cap the heater-hose water pump outlet, and just install the ECT sensor right into the intake? (I haven't looked at mine today, so could I be missing something?)
I've heard of the rubber cap coming off in high RPM situations. I've also had issues with rubber plugs (EGR plate lines) rotting out and leaking on mine. I wish I would have kept my old Edelbrock pump and had it rebuilt. The fittings in the pump are threaded.... and quite honestly, I think my high flow Duralast pump outflows the E-brock.
I am at school right now, but I started modifying one of my Explorer pipes. Woulda probably been done, but I need to get a get some Dremel wheels to cut the tabs that holds the two pipes together. When I cut it, the metal sure looked like aluminum to me. Might be a really lightweight steel though. All this time I thought it was brass.
No.... just hand tight in there, lol. So they will suck in a bit.
This is what I would like to find.... there was a guy making these on moddedmustangs, but he has not logged on for 3 years.... so I doubt he's still around. But as you can see, it is a MUCH cleaner look. I also think he may have been making them from these:
Yea, I like that, probably the way to go. The fitting tube is positioned correctly to avoid an air pocket directly under the sensor...sucks when you get one there for some, but only if you don't know what's going on lol. You have to crack bleed the sensor, for this reason Ford updated THAT fitting for gen 10's. Not many realized it had been updated. The fitting pictured shouldn't have that issue.
Keep in mind you could always T a hose for the sensor, doesn't matter which. WATTS has T's for all sizes.
