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Its the offset everyone rips on, they stress the wheel hub.
Yeah but how else can you look cool if you don’t have 26x14s with -81 offset? I’ve never driven a truck like that but I’d think the wheel scrub would absolutely ruin the feel of the handling. The wheels I want are 20x10 -12 and I’m concerned that will feel off.
Here is some good info on leveling kits and installs. First is the video of a 2 inch auto spring leveling kit. Then the install of a coil over leveling kit.
So here are some measurements after driving around for a while. Measured from the ground to the bottom of the fender flare.
DF: 39 PF: 38 5/8
DR: 38 5/8 PR: 38 1/2
Sounds pretty level but when you measure from the top of the tire to the fender flare it really becomes apparent that it’s a tad front high.
Eibach makes a 1” block for the rear. Will that give me an actual inch of rear lift or slightly less? I’m gonna order it and try it out since that’s the smallest one I can find. I also saw maxtrac has a 1” lift shackle but I’m thinking the block would be easier to install?
So here are some measurements after driving around for a while. Measured from the ground to the bottom of the fender flare.
DF: 39 PF: 38 5/8
DR: 38 5/8 PR: 38 1/2
Sounds pretty level but when you measure from the top of the tire to the fender flare it really becomes apparent that it’s a tad front high.
Eibach makes a 1” block for the rear. Will that give me an actual inch of rear lift or slightly less? I’m gonna order it and try it out since that’s the smallest one I can find. I also saw maxtrac has a 1” lift shackle but I’m thinking the block would be easier to install?
Are you 4X4? If so, Daystar makes a 2" block, remove your OEM, and stick that in, it'll give you 3/4" lit.
If RWD, go for it with the 1", or see if someone has an OEM one for a 4X4.
Are you 4X4? If so, Daystar makes a 2" block, remove your OEM, and stick that in, it'll give you 3/4" lit.
If RWD, go for it with the 1", or see if someone has an OEM one for a 4X4.
It’s RWD. I thought about the oem block, but the eibach block is slightly smaller. I don’t want to lift it over an inch if possible.
What that degree of tire size change does, with the 6- speed, is make 1st through 5th act like 2nd through 6th.
well. I leveled the truck. You were 100% correct. Will not go in 6th gear. It’s a little down on power but that doesn’t bug me too much. So what do you think? The 315/70/17s on it are at the end of their lifespan and I could get new tires anytime. Haven’t heard much about 33x12.5. I’m assuming they should fit fine. Also considering 305s
Yeah, unfortunately we can't override physics. Too, if the wheel/tire combo is notably heavier than, in addition to being taller (larger diameter), it will compound the power (torque) losses. A re-gear solves this.
However! if you can keep the tire in the neighborhood of 33" rather than 35" (where you should re-gear the differential), then you can drive around it easier. For now, just lock out the upper two until you get up to highway speed then select 5th. You may not need 6th until well above 70 MPH, where aerodynamic drag takes over making the whole exercise futile. Big, I mean BIG tires (35"+) need at least a 3.73:1 diff. preferably 4.56. I may do 4.11 when I take the plunge.
My 3.31-axle truck on 33" isn't so bad because they're so light. 68 lbs for the whole wheel/tire, and they're not M/T (mud terrain) with even greater rolling resistance. The tradeoff here is less durability in sharp rocks off road. I risk an easier sidewall puncture, but I carry a fifth exact wheel/tire as my spare. I bought five tires, five wheels, five TPMS sensors.
Yeah, unfortunately we can't override physics. Too, if the wheel/tire combo is notably heavier than, in addition to being taller (larger diameter), it will compound the power (torque) losses. A re-gear solves this.
However! if you can keep the tire in the neighborhood of 33" rather than 35" (where you should re-gear the differential), then you can drive around it easier. For now, just lock out the upper two until you get up to highway speed then select 5th. You may not need 6th until well above 70 MPH, where aerodynamic drag takes over making the whole exercise futile. Big, I mean BIG tires (35"+) need at least a 3.73:1 diff. preferably 4.56. I may do 4.11 when I take the plunge.
My 3.31-axle truck on 33" isn't so bad because they're so light. 68 lbs for the whole wheel/tire, and they're not M/T (mud terrain) with even greater rolling resistance. The tradeoff here is less durability in sharp rocks off road. I risk an easier sidewall puncture, but I carry a fifth exact wheel/tire as my spare. I bought five tires, five wheels, five TPMS sensors.
Nice looking truck man. Here’s mine
Pardon the mess. It’s late and just got done. So anyhow.... my stock tires are 32.1. Going with a 33 BFG, which measures 32.5 would throw it off by that much?
Love the Supercabs. I like those Raptor wheels too.
Anything within an inch of stock is usually good, but, there are variations on the theme.
My 3.31-axle truck was a minimally-equipped 5.0 XLT SuperCrew and had 30.5" Michelins! from the factory. I'm two inches bigger than stock with these 32.8" tires. Is yours a 5.0 (I forget)?
Love the Supercabs. I like those Raptor wheels too.
Anything within an inch of stock is usually good, but, there are variations on the theme.
My 3.31-axle truck was a minimally-equipped 5.0 XLT SuperCrew and had 30.5" Michelins! from the factory. I'm two inches bigger than stock with these 32.8" tires. Is yours a 5.0 (I forget)?
yes sir. 2016 5.0. Came with good year 275/65/18. (32.1). I better go with somewhere in the neighborhood of 32.5. How do you like your current tires? Does the tranny pull anything funny with the 32.8s?