The Leveling Kit Thread
I see. Thanks. Are you still on factory shocks? with the RC kit being a puck spacer above the factory shock/spring assembly?
I ask because I can only offer two suggestions to *slightly* decrease the new driving dynamics/feedback you are experiencing.
1. Try 35 psi cold (and go no lower, ever) - 1 lb pressure can make a difference, believe it or not, but that may be true only with a softer-sidewall P-Metric
2. Better dampers (shocks) will help to alleviate much of the dissatisfaction you may be feeling.
For example, when I replaced my stock dampers with Bilstein 5100s on all four corners, the general, going-straight-down-the-road ride quality felt more *firm* but it was not at all! harsh. Seems counterintuitive, but nonetheless it is true. With the 5100s, nose-dive under braking was drastically reduced, body roll during cornering was far less, and the axle hop under acceleration over rough roadway nearly dissappeared... and the overall rife was just plain better, even if more communicative of the roadway surface.
When after three years of this outstanding setup I swapped in a new set of 6112 up front and the 5160s out back, I thought I might have made a mistake (at first)... the ride was WAY more "taut". Dramatically moreso. Over a short period of time I have come to LOVE the way the truck drives now. It's better than before for the big bumps (in my mild offroading that I do) and while I feel more of the small stuff, the overall chassis control now is astonishing. It's like I'm driving a huge sports sedan but with some ground clearance for my desert BLM travel. I love it.
I ask because I can only offer two suggestions to *slightly* decrease the new driving dynamics/feedback you are experiencing.
1. Try 35 psi cold (and go no lower, ever) - 1 lb pressure can make a difference, believe it or not, but that may be true only with a softer-sidewall P-Metric
2. Better dampers (shocks) will help to alleviate much of the dissatisfaction you may be feeling.
For example, when I replaced my stock dampers with Bilstein 5100s on all four corners, the general, going-straight-down-the-road ride quality felt more *firm* but it was not at all! harsh. Seems counterintuitive, but nonetheless it is true. With the 5100s, nose-dive under braking was drastically reduced, body roll during cornering was far less, and the axle hop under acceleration over rough roadway nearly dissappeared... and the overall rife was just plain better, even if more communicative of the roadway surface.
When after three years of this outstanding setup I swapped in a new set of 6112 up front and the 5160s out back, I thought I might have made a mistake (at first)... the ride was WAY more "taut". Dramatically moreso. Over a short period of time I have come to LOVE the way the truck drives now. It's better than before for the big bumps (in my mild offroading that I do) and while I feel more of the small stuff, the overall chassis control now is astonishing. It's like I'm driving a huge sports sedan but with some ground clearance for my desert BLM travel. I love it.
Hey guys, I have been doing a bunch of digging but have gotten confusing info. Right now my truck has 5100’s at the 2.1 setting. Unfortunately it’s still not level. Have been doing some research on adding the Eibach springs which would put me around 2.7. Has anyone done this? How does it ride? Which setting do you have your 5100’s at with the spring?
Hey guys, I have been doing a bunch of digging but have gotten confusing info. Right now my truck has 5100’s at the 2.1 setting. Unfortunately it’s still not level. Have been doing some research on adding the Eibach springs which would put me around 2.7. Has anyone done this? How does it ride? Which setting do you have your 5100’s at with the spring?
started with the 5100 top setting but I wanted a little taller to clear my 35” better so I bought pro tune kit (control arm /3” spacer and 2.5” rear block ) but I tried to leave bilstien at 1” setting so I could get 4” total .... bad idea 👎 never do that rides terrible so I took bilstien down to oem size and now it rides ok but nothing like what u have now . In my opinion it’s not worth getting that extra inch for a ****ty ride truck
Anything beyond a 2.5 lift in front puts the control arms in an unfavorable position. This is why you don't see people doing anything beyond 2.5"... think Rancho Quick LIft.
With Bilstein the 2.1" of the 5100 Series is the maximum height. They know what they're doing. Pay attention.
You're better off investing in a 4" lift kit which restores the factory angles.
With Bilstein the 2.1" of the 5100 Series is the maximum height. They know what they're doing. Pay attention.
You're better off investing in a 4" lift kit which restores the factory angles.
I was like you not that long ago lol
started with the 5100 top setting but I wanted a little taller to clear my 35” better so I bought pro tune kit (control arm /3” spacer and 2.5” rear block ) but I tried to leave bilstien at 1” setting so I could get 4” total .... bad idea 👎 never do that rides terrible so I took bilstien down to oem size and now it rides ok but nothing like what u have now . In my opinion it’s not worth getting that extra inch for a ****ty ride truck
started with the 5100 top setting but I wanted a little taller to clear my 35” better so I bought pro tune kit (control arm /3” spacer and 2.5” rear block ) but I tried to leave bilstien at 1” setting so I could get 4” total .... bad idea 👎 never do that rides terrible so I took bilstien down to oem size and now it rides ok but nothing like what u have now . In my opinion it’s not worth getting that extra inch for a ****ty ride truck
Anything beyond a 2.5 lift in front puts the control arms in an unfavorable position. This is why you don't see people doing anything beyond 2.5"... think Rancho Quick LIft.
With Bilstein the 2.1" of the 5100 Series is the maximum height. They know what they're doing. Pay attention.
You're better off investing in a 4" lift kit which restores the factory angles.
With Bilstein the 2.1" of the 5100 Series is the maximum height. They know what they're doing. Pay attention.
You're better off investing in a 4" lift kit which restores the factory angles.
I see. Thanks. Are you still on factory shocks? with the RC kit being a puck spacer above the factory shock/spring assembly?
I ask because I can only offer two suggestions to *slightly* decrease the new driving dynamics/feedback you are experiencing.
1. Try 35 psi cold (and go no lower, ever) - 1 lb pressure can make a difference, believe it or not, but that may be true only with a softer-sidewall P-Metric
2. Better dampers (shocks) will help to alleviate much of the dissatisfaction you may be feeling.
For example, when I replaced my stock dampers with Bilstein 5100s on all four corners, the general, going-straight-down-the-road ride quality felt more *firm* but it was not at all! harsh. Seems counterintuitive, but nonetheless it is true. With the 5100s, nose-dive under braking was drastically reduced, body roll during cornering was far less, and the axle hop under acceleration over rough roadway nearly dissappeared... and the overall rife was just plain better, even if more communicative of the roadway surface.
When after three years of this outstanding setup I swapped in a new set of 6112 up front and the 5160s out back, I thought I might have made a mistake (at first)... the ride was WAY more "taut". Dramatically moreso. Over a short period of time I have come to LOVE the way the truck drives now. It's better than before for the big bumps (in my mild offroading that I do) and while I feel more of the small stuff, the overall chassis control now is astonishing. It's like I'm driving a huge sports sedan but with some ground clearance for my desert BLM travel. I love it.
I ask because I can only offer two suggestions to *slightly* decrease the new driving dynamics/feedback you are experiencing.
1. Try 35 psi cold (and go no lower, ever) - 1 lb pressure can make a difference, believe it or not, but that may be true only with a softer-sidewall P-Metric
2. Better dampers (shocks) will help to alleviate much of the dissatisfaction you may be feeling.
For example, when I replaced my stock dampers with Bilstein 5100s on all four corners, the general, going-straight-down-the-road ride quality felt more *firm* but it was not at all! harsh. Seems counterintuitive, but nonetheless it is true. With the 5100s, nose-dive under braking was drastically reduced, body roll during cornering was far less, and the axle hop under acceleration over rough roadway nearly dissappeared... and the overall rife was just plain better, even if more communicative of the roadway surface.
When after three years of this outstanding setup I swapped in a new set of 6112 up front and the 5160s out back, I thought I might have made a mistake (at first)... the ride was WAY more "taut". Dramatically moreso. Over a short period of time I have come to LOVE the way the truck drives now. It's better than before for the big bumps (in my mild offroading that I do) and while I feel more of the small stuff, the overall chassis control now is astonishing. It's like I'm driving a huge sports sedan but with some ground clearance for my desert BLM travel. I love it.






