Thanks for the feedback. Sah70 do you have the 2.7? If so thats perfect. I dont mind just a tiny bit of rake but definitely dont want to be cali leaned out. Did either of you notice any settling after driving around? And last thing, Did yall do the install yourself or get it put on? cost?

Thanks in advance.

 

Purchased the truck in early 2016. So, about 3.5 years now. I put them on at less than 5k and I'm rolling up on 40k now.

Still a solid improvement on the stock shocks for me. A little firmer, like you'd expect a truck to ride, and the rear end hop when you go over gaps in bridges, off ramps, etc. is gone. I'm not especially rough on my truck with just some minor off-roading here and there when going out shooting, camping, etc., but the 5100s have held up super well. No complaints on my end. I did have them installed professionally as I didn't want to mess with the spring compressor.

 

Thanks for the information. Much appreciated.

 

Just wanted to let those that were considering tire size options that I just had a 2.5” Pro Comp leveling kit installed. Went with 33x12.50R20 Nitto Ridge Grappler on OEM wheels. No rubbing at all. No trimming or cutting needing.

 

Yes I have 2.7. Sorry, still haven’t gotten measurements. I purchased mine online. I ended up having a shop do it. They charged me $80/hr for labor... took 3 hours. I thought that was pretty fair. Price was lower than many of the other shops I had considered.

 

Yeah that price seems reasonable. I may shop around to see. I was going to do it myself but if i can pay around 200 and not have to deal with the headache of compressing those springs i may take that option Let me know if you ever grab the measurements on that.

 

Does anyone know the measurements from ground to fender on a stock 2019 4X4 with out a level?

Those of you with a 2.5" level, what are your measurements after you installed?

 

I could tell you what mine are now, but it wouldn't mean anything much. My front is 40", rear 40.5". You need to measure your own, these trucks are all over the place.

 

Hi guys,

Instead of lifting the front of my truck to level the ride height I chose to lower the rear. For my truck usage I much prefer the lower bed height for loading and unloading stuff which is generally big bulky items that are lightweight enough to not cause my truck to squat during normal usage.

To level my truck I went with the Ford M-3000-HA rear shackle kit, removed the rear 4x4 blocks, added 4x2 u-bolts, added 4x2 Bilstein 4600 shocks, and added a pair of SumoSprings blue bumpstops with bottom rib removed.

With these modifications my truck is now basically level, rides and handles great while unloaded, doesn't sag much with a heavy load in the bed, and is very easy to load and unload the bed. Before I trimmed the SumoSprings I must admit the unloaded ride was too bouncy for me (the SumoSprings were basically active 100% of the time as they were just touching the axle at my current ride height). Now that they're trimmed I have a 1" gap before they engage on the axle. In the future if I need to drive with a heavy payload for any distance I'll swap in the included 1" SumoSprings spacers which further decreases rear sag, then remove the spacers for daily driving (which takes all of 10 minutes to swap in/out).

Here's a couple pics from when I was installing the SumoSprings. Sorry for the wet, dirty truck. It was pretty nasty outside that day. Oh yeah - the suspension pic shows the SumoSprings before I trimmed them.

 

Strut assembly removed.

Top hat, spring, and lower mount marked for reassembly orientation.

Shankly Spring Compressor Tool.

I have a 2019 SuperCrew Lariat 4X4 with the 2.7 EcoBoost and I installed the rear Bilstein 5100 shocks last weekend and just finished installing the Bilstein 5100 front leveling shocks. I used the middle setting and I have between 3/4 to 1" of rake. To anyone who is considering doing the job themselves here is the procedure I used along with a few photos. As you can tell from my procedure I don't just tighten bolts - I torque them to factory specs..

I bought the Shankly Spring Compressor on Amazon for $55.
Ratchet box wrenches will make the job much easier.

After the front shock install you will need to get your front end realigned.
You will also need to readjust your headlights if you raised any.

BILSTEIN 5100 FRONT SHOCK INSTALLATION

1. Jack up truck.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Remove brake line brackets, (2) 10mm & (1) 8mm sockets. Reinstall bolts.

4. Remove sway bar from lower control arm. 18mm & 8mm wrenches.

5. Remove nut on outer tie rod & remove tie rod. 21mm & 10mm wrenches.

6. Remove (2) 18mm nuts on shock bottom & cut off as much of the studs

as you can (1/2 to พ”) with an abrasive cutoff wheel. This way I did not have to

loosen the (2) 21mm nuts on the lower control arm.

7. Loosen, but do not remove nut on upper control arm. 21mm & 8mm wrenches.

8. Hit upper control arm with a dead blow to break loose.

9. Finish removing upper control arm nut and move hub assembly out of the way.

10. Remove (2) 18mm upper strut nuts, leave one loose to hold assembly up. You
can also access the nuts from the engine compartment.

11. Gently pry down control arm, remove strut nut, and remove strut assembly.

12. Mark springs, top hat, and lower spring mount for reassembly orientation.

13. Top shock nut – 41 ft. lbs.



INSTALL

1. Install assembly & (3) top nuts loosely –gently pry lower control arm down.

2. Install (2) lower shock bolts – 66 ft. lbs.

3. Jack up A-frame and connect upper ball joint and tighten – 46 ft. lbs.

4. Install and tighten lower ball joint nut – 76 ft. lbs.

5. Install tie rod & tighten – 76 ft. lbs.

6. Tighten top (3) strut bolts – 52 ft. lbs.

7. Install sway bar to lower control arm – 59 ft. lbs.

9. Install brake line brackets – 22 ft. lbs.

10. Install wheel -150 ft. lbs. dry torque or 120 ft. lbs. wet torque (anti-seize).



If you had to loosen the lower control arm to get the strut assembly out, it torques at 258 ft. lbs.