What size tire did you have before?

I went from 275/65r18(32.2x10.8) to a 285/70r17(32.7x11.2) and didn't have any noticable loss in fuel economy. I have the 5.0 with 3.73 gears though and I did correct the speedo.

If you're in NorCal I can see if I can correct your speedo. The software I use has no problem correcting Speedos on 15-18 but it's had some problems with 19'+. Waiting on a software update but this Covid thing seems to have messed that up.

 

Great! I got the tires on.. zero rub, and the look is great with the perfect amount of poke..
Ride is excellent, good dampening and minimal road noise.. Tracks straight and very predictable compliance heading into and out of corners ..
I will post pics of the AT3's once the app stops crashing on me..

 

So in my opinion of sizes and combos that work, with no rub or crash bar trimming, these are the sizes as follows. For factory sport wheels on a 2.5" level
With 1.25 wheel spacers:
285/60 r20
A 285/65r20 would prob rub a smidge under articulation (front crash bar)
With 1" spacers
285/60r20 No RUB
285/65r20 No RUB
295/60r20 No RUB
295/65r20 PROBABLY NO RUB.. But you'll be splitting hairs at lock to lock articulation.

There you go guys, a no bullchit WHAT WORKS CHART FROM SOMEONE WHO TOOK THE TIME ACTUALLY TRY..
35 x 12.5 r20's rub one way or the other, I see no way how they can't rub in the real world.

 

Good info.

35x12.5 tires fit, just take out the wheel spacer.

 

They rubbed my upper control arm.. I have ready lift corrected angle upper c arms.. I couldn't even get the wheel on.
But even so, under compression they would have rubbed.
So backing up a trailer or reversing on an incline while turning the wheel, I def can't see a case for zero rub on the factory sport wheels

 

Plenty of guys are running level kits and 35x12.5 on factory offset wheels and stock control arms. I'm running raptor wheels with no rubbing and those are only 10mm off on the offset, I have more than that much clearance to the control arm. I do understand that most aftermarket control arms ask for more clearance.

 

The aftermarket control is a huge plus for the CV angles and camber.. plus the ride is much more plush with less tuck.
But yes I should have geared my post more towards those with replacement UCA's..
for that I'm wrong..
But 35x12.5 r20's I'm telling you are still going to rub lock to lock under compression.. I even bolted my other 35's from my other 04 F150.. 5.5 backspace.. still a smidge of rub but a dam near perfect offset.
On toyo AT2 extremes.

 

How do aftermarket control arms improve CV angles and camber?

 

They push out the upper control arm (outboard) while pitching the ball joint outward roughly 30 degrees, and they also offset slightly more forward..
I noticed a big comfort and stroke difference after leveling vs stock uppers.
Stock uppers can "click" when maxed out, it's typically a sound you'll inevitably hear overtime.
It's still fine to run them, not saying they are trash, but after you feel the ride difference and obvious alignment Benefits you'd see what I mean..
The older fords imho had a Better upper C arm angle then these ones.

 

While Google searching some stuff I came across some youtube vids of dealerships selling brand new F150s with 35x11.50s on the stock 20" wheels. I'm not sure what size front level they had on though. I know only a few manufacturers make the 35x11.50 but in the ridge grappler, its 8 pound lighter than the 12.50 and obviously 1/2" further away from your UCA.

I'm interested in the 35x11.50 for my '18 Sport 4x4. I've already installed a 2" level which put me 1/2" higher than the rear. I think I'll take out the stock 1.25" in block and throw in a 2".

My main concern is gearing though. Going from a 31.9" to a 34.7" tire with 3.55s and a 2.7EB. I don want it to be too sluggish, but that's for another thread.