Thinking
Anyway, is the upper arm itself in good shape ?
Check this out, this guys got a great pic of a cut away trans mount that helps a ton explaining broken manifold problems with these trucks. I have explained the problem perfectly for many years. But without such a pic, people were skeptical, -
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/rattlin...6/#post5157965
BTW- look at both pics in the link to see the cut away pic here.
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/rattlin...6/#post5157965
BTW- look at both pics in the link to see the cut away pic here.
Originally Posted by Jbrew
Check this out, this guys got a great pic of a cut away trans mount that helps a ton explaining broken manifold problems with these trucks. I have explained the problem perfectly for many years. But without such a pic, people were skeptical, -
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/rattlin...6/#post5157965
BTW- look at both pics in the link to see the cut away pic here.
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/rattlin...6/#post5157965
BTW- look at both pics in the link to see the cut away pic here.
Here's a new one, not a very good pic, but I marked it (white lettering). See that palte with the orange dampening material ? That's the plate that pulls the Y down. I never had a exhaust intake manifold problem on the 98 like others have. It was because my plate broke in two vs pulling the Y down. I just welded it back together. I found out while building my header Y pipe. After removing the cross-over and pushing the trans/tranfer case over to one side of the truck giving me enough room for final welds to the headers. Yea my exhaust Y headers and cats are welded solid...no getting them apart without a saw zall. I was going for as much low end as I could get. Only way (to prevent custom tuning), weld solid and not even a pin hole leak lol. A crappy pic of the mount, -
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Ahh heres a better one, new and old. See the part number on the old, that's how the replacements where when I was looking them up for others after replacing mine.
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Here we go, - this what was left of the bushing material lol, -
Yea you can fix punctures relatively easily. For tears and if it's not torn all the across you'll need that HD 3M silicon stretchy tap. That stuff is fantastic, - I used it on CV boots. Not sure it can be purchased, it should be there for the consumer. I get demo stuff from 3M every now and again, at times promotional stuff without lifting a finger (wish I could pick and choose lol). Pretty cool, anyway and got bunch one time. It comes in a role, peels sticky paper on one side but it's glue-less. What's neat is you can mold the stuff after a few wraps, form fitting and strong as hell. A real PITA to remove though lol. Yea not sure if it made it to the shelf's, I'll never run out. I can get a picture of if you ever attempt to track it down. Reminds of that commercial on TV selling that stuff that fixes garden hose leaks wit a couple wraps. This stuff is like the military version of that. Been wanting to test it on air hoses, leaks...just never pushed it that far yet. I'll quit rambling about that stuff for now, great tape though, OH it doesn't wrinkle either, but it does have to adhere to itself ...okay done lol
Anyway, is the upper arm itself in good shape ?
Anyway, is the upper arm itself in good shape ?
The upper arms look great on both sides. I was surprised, considering all the noise.
I have an Anchor 2871 sitting in the box at home if you'd like pics. My Buddy uses Anchor all the time. I've got an Anchor motor/trans mount on my Escape.... been there for two years, and it's been fine.










