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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 12:30 PM
  #19641  
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Originally Posted by OhioLariat
Brew - I hope you didn't think I was making light of your problem that does truly suck. I've never seen a TT without the roof membrane on. I wonder if they just bowed lightweight plywood over an aluminum (or, heck.. wood) frame. Glad you got your cover material. That will let you put off the inspection and repairs until spring. I might suggest something bigger that 1" PVC to make your weights. That cover will become a parachute if it gets any wind under it at all. I made weights for my wife's 10x10 pop-up canopy, I put an eye bolt through a cap, with a fender washer on the inside and an extra nut by the eye. That worked well for attaching bungies and ratchet straps. Yours won't need to be two feet of 4", though.
This trailer has arched stick built trusses. You know wood like a regular home. The bad in that, there's no ventilation...0. So they don't last long. That is something I don't understand, the roof will eventually get soft. For the roof deck, they use an OSB sheathing capped with sanded plywood or Luan for a substrate. They go over that with a single layer of TPO membrane (Thermoplastic Polyolefin), applying adhesive to both substrate and membrane before placement. A lot of travel trailers have this roofing system now. The walls are aluminum framed. I purchased this particular trailer for its R40 insulation roof and R30 floor. That appealed to me more than anything as I planned to use it through the winter at the time and couldn't find another with those numbers. Which turned out to be a manipulation with too many ifs lol. Yea , I'll leave it there.
The leak fix is rather simple. You use a product called Eternabond which I have on hand. It's matter of prepping correctly/cleaning and putting the tape down at 70* F. That will end leaks there and prevent new ones in the future. And it will look good. The roof boards will need replacing in the future. Not looking forward to that, but it's something I can do if I want. Not sure I trust those RV shops.
____________

I think they'll work and are heavy enough. It'll be trial and error for sure. Good idea, I might take a look at those auger bolts as well, or the type they use for dog runs...those things are pretty strong. They like cork screw into the ground. There will be approx a foot of material folded under. If the PVC isn't enough to keep is stationary, I'll have blocks inside. The blocks will be holding a temporary visqueen vapor barrier in place, I'll have a few extra about. Yea, hopefully I can keep it simple and tight at the same time.

Last edited by Jbrew; Oct 10, 2021 at 01:51 PM.
Old Oct 10, 2021 | 12:37 PM
  #19642  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
I didn't even know that stuff existed, that looks really solid. How far apart do those need to be placed?
I noticed them a few years back, thought you could mock up a quick enclosure with a few of those and a little PVC lol. I'm not sure how many I'll need, I have 50 of them and they are all getting painted black. I don't think I want them to stand out..so.

Great, Ohio has me pondering the PVC weight again

Old Oct 10, 2021 | 01:02 PM
  #19643  
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I guess I left out something that may change your mind Ohio. The lower section will be totally secured to the trailer via snaps every 8 -10". I have two types of snaps 3M adhesive and SS 3/8 screw in utilizing existing screw points already there fastening a trim piece in place. However, I would have to add to that as they are further apart than I'd like...which means more holes in the side of the trailer. So I'm not sure I want to do that yet. That's where the 3M's adhesive snaps come into play. The only problem there, I'm not sure they are strong enough and they look look different, they are a plastic type and would look goofy. Looks are very critical, it has to look good or forget it. Anyway, just below snaps there will be a 2" strip of velcro. This fastens tarp to tarp...top to bottom and will hopefully provide a windproof seal and keep the water out as well.

So it's not like the PVC is holding everything in place, just the first 4 foot plus or so. This way the bottom section could be used by itself as a skirting, in case I wanted to use it in the winter.

I guess I rattled on enough today, have a good one fellas. Don't wanna be a thread killer...that guy...I'd much rather keep it to myself lol.

Last edited by Jbrew; Oct 10, 2021 at 05:57 PM. Reason: went too fast with that one.
Old Oct 10, 2021 | 10:06 PM
  #19644  
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LOL... I thought I was the thread killer? Or am I just a post *****?

They finished at about 1:30, so he was a little bit off. One guy didn't show up though (his own son), so he didn't have a full crew.


Old Oct 10, 2021 | 11:58 PM
  #19645  
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I guess I get a little long in the details sometimes...I don't know. I try to hold back ...honest!

Looks great man, like that color configuration.
Old Oct 11, 2021 | 12:08 AM
  #19646  
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Looks good, White. The light gray should help keep things a little cooler in the summer.
Old Oct 11, 2021 | 06:52 AM
  #19647  
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I almost went black instead, but decided to stay somewhat close to what it was for the summer. The ridge vents should also help out.
Old Oct 11, 2021 | 08:10 AM
  #19648  
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Black has the shortest lifespan anyway, you made a good choice.

Last edited by Jbrew; Oct 11, 2021 at 08:12 AM.
Old Oct 11, 2021 | 08:36 AM
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Got it done just in time! Looks like it's going to get tested tonight. From what these guys are saying, Matt and Paul are going to get pounded. That bottom arrow is in their area.



Old Oct 11, 2021 | 08:56 AM
  #19650  
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Suppose to be 80 today, going to repair the leak. Go to 6:40 in this vid if your interested, that's what I'll be doing. Same type trailer as mine. You can't see the screws which are the problem. They are behind half circle cover every 4 to 6". Water gets behind the cover as it runs into the gutter and sits in there. He's about the fourth or fifth guy I've seen do this.They swear by it. This guy here didn't do it 100% correct, but you get the idea.


Last edited by Jbrew; Oct 11, 2021 at 09:07 AM.



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