Or just to keep it Ford, do the Standard parts LX809. This is the points to electronic swap out. Nothing is different other than pulling the points and condenser out and replacing with the electronic module insert and hall effect ring. I believe Rock Auto sells it as a replacement or just use the STD # to check eBay or Amazon. We still use these occasionally up here on old Fords.

 

That picture is misleading. Those are sharpie marks. The 0 is definitely the main number.. unless youre seeing something else. But yea I marked the 10 bigger since I had read somewhere on FTE that they either like 6 or 15 BTDC so I was going towards 15. But I can run it at 10 tomorrow with the vac gauge hooked up. My pics from yesterday were at 14 just fyi. Ill shoot you a message tomorrow when i do.
dizzy is tight, cap rotor and condenser are new.

I gapped the points to the specs in my haynes manual. I have an engine analyzer on the way from ebay that can measure dwell so I will double check that when it comes in. and I will go double check that the plate is tighten down. *Edit* just checked and everything is tight.
On my list of upgrades eventually but right now I just want to make sure my truck runs good enough for a 3 hour drive in a week.

Also whitey the crow foot came today. It is definitely a hair big. I managed to get it pretty tight before it started to want to round the nut off. Then I remembered I bought a dang socket for the front axle that was 1 5/16!!! dangit! Anyway I was able to use that socket with 3/4 to 1/2 reducer then an extension. I apparently got it to 215 ft/lbs with the crow foot cz with the socket it popped off right away. Hopefully I didnt over tighten it too much. Here are some pics for clearance and a pic of the socket. The 1 5/16 socket definitely wasnt too big but I didnt love the crow foot. I think youd be good with a 33mm.


deep socket wont work

deep socket still wont work

heres what I used after the crow foot.

not straight on but its on enough to grip


final set up. 215 clicked right away so i probably over tighten it with the crow foot... should be fine right?

another view

 

hmm will keep that in mind.

 

In this area about 2 years ago Craigslist was running warning messages about a rash of ridiculously priced items that were a scam. The purpose of the listings was to eventually get people on the phone so they could get your phone number. By using targeted items to sell, like a truck or car, telemarketers identify people looking for those things to buy. Do not call lists don't work either because CL identified one used car dealer that had about 50 different names they called under.

 

Right, nice vehicles for a dollar was a little too ridicules. Still, I bet other folks info was captured, and abused.

 

I'm sure a lot of people were abused. I didn't put this in earlier but the people collected the phone numbers were doing it as their job. They were getting paid for collecting the phone numbers and passing them along to those that were using them. I wouldn't doubt that if someone looked they would also find the same ads with slightly different information for different areas. IIRC that's how Craigslist caught on. One ad in Detroit might be "selling for someone else," and the same ad in Columbus might be, "for sale by estate." A telemarketing scam is also one of more anemic uses for telephone numbers. Anyone might find it interesting to look in to what can be learned or done with personal information now by bad intentioned hackers with nothing but a your phone number. There's all kinds of security measures available now but the number of people using them is pretty low. One article I read referred to the phone number as a "single point failure." Everything on a phone is accessible to hackers through the phone number. Everything on a phone is no more secure than how secure the number is.

 

2100, if your timing is jumping around on you, and there's no play in the dizzy.... try rocking the crank back and forth and see how responsive the rotor is. It's just a way to check timing chain slop without tearing the motor apart. The MAX you should have is 7 degrees of play.

 

@fordguy2100

If I'm following you right, going from 14 to 20 degrees is advancing, not retarding. Verified this so I'm not alone in thinking this if again I'm understanding you right.

Something to consider, Since your truck\engine predates scanning tools, scanning tools aren't much use to you for diagnostics but you do have the option of an oscilloscope. The programs along with an 8 channel interface devices for laptops are available now starting around $100. Full kits are more but the probes and sensors can be picked up as needed. It wasn't all that long ago that these scopes started at close to a grand. They will offer a lot of information that the only other way you can get is by tearing the engine apart. Analysis of the intake pressure waveform can tell you things like if a valve problem is a burnt valve, bad spring, bad seal, seat, etc. By analyzing the entire wave and identifying where a wave goes wrong and what the effects are it identifies the problem. They come with manuals explaining how to read the information. All this info is available now without having to give Snap On your first born anymore.

 

Found a video showing this procedure.... hope this helps.

 

Well, I guess he's done talking about it river lol.