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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:48 PM
  #15061  
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I know it's not Ford related, but I found this to be quite interesting.

Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:57 PM
  #15062  
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Whitey.....it would be nice if we could see it. Your VPN is blocking it on my end. LOL
Old Jun 9, 2020 | 03:10 PM
  #15063  
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From post 15061? It's a Youtube link... my VPN won't have anything to do with that.
Old Jun 9, 2020 | 03:14 PM
  #15064  
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No problem here. I'd already seen this. Glad I'm not driving a Hemi anything.
Old Jun 9, 2020 | 03:27 PM
  #15065  
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I finally got this open and it is exactly what I saw when I was doing Mopar warranty. We had so many Hemi engines, either loose cams, scar a piston, or just drop a valve head and it would cross the runner and get the opposite piston. That was just the Hemi. The Pentastar would overhead on the exhuast and cause warpage and damage. They have a lot of problems. That didn't even touch the freaking transmission problems.
Old Jun 9, 2020 | 03:55 PM
  #15066  
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Originally Posted by akdoggie
2100.....sorry for the slow response. Damn traffic in town today was a real biatch.

First thing I would do is make sure #1 is TDC. Pull the plug and make sure it's at the top. Then look where the timing mark is on the balancer vs the pointer. See where you actually are with TDC. If it on point at zero, the balancer is good and not moved (many do on these over time). I just looked up a 75 360 in my books and it shows 6 degrees BTDC as the settings specs. This is done with the distributor without a hose and the hose capped.

That said, I've seen BBF's with 30 degrees showing on the wheel, but actually only around 8 or 10. the balancers will shift so much, considering they are 45-50 years old. I'd do that first and then if that is correct, we can figure where to set you truck with the vac gauge to the max without having max ping when pulling a load.
Ak if you dont want me bogging down this thread Id be more than happy to PM, text, or email if ya want. Or if everyone else is annoyed with highboy questions lol
No worries. Confirmed on compression stroke (sealed plug with finger till air blew past, dropped a dowel rod in there and rotated till it stopped moving up. Its right on 0. ... well maybe 1 or 2 degrees off since I think i can rotate a hair before it starts moving again. regardless its 0 +/- 1 degree. Here is a picture of the rotor when the timing mark is right at 0. The screwdriver/sharpie mark on the dizzy housing is where plug 1 is on the cap. Then notice on the second set of pics, I have the rotor pointing to the #1 firing position and note where the timing marks are. (like 60 BTDC).

Again when running, the timing is about 14degrees at idle.

At top dead center (0 on timing marks)

At top dead center (0 on timing marks)

At #1 firing position for rotor

At #1 firing position for rotor
Old Jun 9, 2020 | 04:52 PM
  #15067  
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2100....seeing your balancer is set at 10 for the main number, go with that. Time it at 10 with the hose off/capped. Put your vac gauge and see what your numbers are. PM me with the numbers and if you can phone video me or not.
Old Jun 9, 2020 | 05:03 PM
  #15068  
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How much play is in the dizzy? Is it pretty tight?
Old Jun 9, 2020 | 05:27 PM
  #15069  
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damn. I just looked that that dist again. It's points, not electronic. Make sure your points are spot on for the dwell. Also, since they are points, make sure that the distributor point plate is good. These are notorious for getting loose and it will bounce the dwell all over the place.

This part........


Old Jun 9, 2020 | 06:51 PM
  #15070  
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If I were you.... and you can take this or leave it.... I'd get an HEI distributor for it. Points are a pain in the butt.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-FE-HEI...kAAOSw~hZeUEp9



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