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I wonder how the puller would have worked if he hadn't used the impact wrench and went with hand tools? The bolt trick worked but I'd worry about breaking or cracking the knuckle\spindle. I also wondered about putting all the pressure on just one side of the rotor? Would it be better to back off and rotate it?
Also, wasn't thinking went I mentioned the nuts on the lugs. That's from experience with drum brakes.
I was looking through some pics, and I found this Allison trans my Buddy built for a cement truck. It has a drum brake on the tail shaft. I thought you guys might find it interesting. (I think he told me it's their park brake)
EDIT: My bad... this is for an Isuzu box truck, not a cement truck. Sorry dudes.
Last edited by white89gt; Feb 20, 2020 at 09:00 PM.
I wonder how the puller would have worked if he hadn't used the impact wrench and went with hand tools? The bolt trick worked but I'd worry about breaking or cracking the knuckle\spindle. I also wondered about putting all the pressure on just one side of the rotor? Would it be better to back off and rotate it?
Also, wasn't thinking went I mentioned the nuts on the lugs. That's from experience with drum brakes.
In the video he does rotate the rotor to apply pressure on the opposite side. But i do agree if he had done the bolt trick on that vehicle, I would be worried about the stress on the ears where the bolts go through. I think more often than not tho it would be fine
In the video he does rotate the rotor to apply pressure on the opposite side. But i do agree if he had done the bolt trick on that vehicle, I would be worried about the stress on the ears where the bolts go through. I think more often than not tho it would be fine
That one was stuck on there but good, so yes, the "bolt trick" would have either been futile, or had the very real potential to break off one of the caliper mounting ears. I'm sure that turning the rotor to get force on/from the other side, though, could help in either situation. Once the bolts are tightened up, the shock of a mallet strike or some heat could help as well, I'd imagine.
White, I've seen this or something similar before on tracked vehicles. WWII era tanks for instance but understood they were used because the steering of tracked vehicles is done through separate braking between the right and left tracks. IIRC they were also used because of the weight of tanks when going downhill. Even with a cement truck and depending on the PTO type I could make a connection. That's far from an Isuzu box truck though. This leaves me wondering how this brake would be a choice over parking brakes that lock the wheels? If your buddy knows why and how the brake is used beyond the obvious, "parking brake," I'd be interested in knowing. That's all. It also brings a new meaning to the transmission brake used in racing for automatics.
I was looking through some pics, and I found this Allison trans my Buddy built for a cement truck. It has a drum brake on the tail shaft. I thought you guys might find it interesting. (I think he told me it's their park brake)
EDIT: My bad... this is for an Isuzu box truck, not a cement truck. Sorry dudes.
The driveshaft ebrake was very common in the older designed trucks. F650's had them thru the 70's. IHC, GMC, etc had them also. Lots of early parcel vans had these also. It was easy to work on too. Not a lot of rust up there compared to the wheel areas. They used like a 9 inch set of shoes, but worked well.