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Brew.... are there are old school tricks to get my outlets spaced out 1/2 inch? This butthole made the boxes flush with the studs, so they sit back in 1/2 inch. He even cut down the plugs so they would fit in the holes (if that makes sense),
Yea, sometimes, well most of the time you'll need a little painters caulk for some of that molding. That's usually due to the 2x4's not being straight for the rough framing. I use doublers on the bottom in basements, -saves time anchoring to the concrete and running bottom molding..result , - helps the entire wall. You have to run treated on the very bottom anyway...that helps allot with straightness lol.
But yea, there's a few tricks that's good to know in order get straight stock...like say cutting out the middle man and keep them banded. Of course, had to to learn that one the hard way; way back when lol. Makes it a PITA to finish sometimes.
Yep. Another good tip is to use the longest board available and hang it horizontally. Besides less taping, it usually means using more taping with a board taper. More helpful though is how this method helps smooth out unevenness in the studs, left to right and top to bottom. I've seen walls that look like xylophones because the board was hung vertically and jointed ever 4 feet which can be a mudding nightmare.
Huh, did you hit a screw with it, - you can also cut your angle at 46* around corner bead. That way the outer corner will flush, if there's any gap, it will be on the inside. A dab of caulk takes care of that.
Brew.... are there are old school tricks to get my outlets spaced out 1/2 inch? This butthole made the boxes flush with the studs, so they sit back in 1/2 inch. He even cut down the plugs so they would fit in the holes (if that makes sense),
The box store should have 1\2, 5\8 and 3\4 inch box extensions for the plastic boxes.
Yep. Another good tip is to use the longest board available and hang it horizontally. Besides less taping, it usually means using more taping with a board taper. More helpful though is how this method helps smooth out unevenness in the studs, left to right and top to bottom. I've seen walls that look like xylophones because the board was hung vertically and jointed ever 4 feet which can be a mudding nightmare.
Yea, you can cut some fire stop/blocks at 14 1/2" to help with that. I don't like doing that personally, - it can work against yuh in the future lol.
Huh, did you hit a screw with it, - you can also cut your angle at 46* around corner bead. That way the outer corner will flush, if there's any gap, it will be on the inside. A dab of caulk takes care of that.
It did it to me twice, and both times it was in the corner bead. Maybe I'm just a good aim at hitting nails and screws, LOL.
Originally Posted by River1
The box store should have 1\2, 5\8 and 3\4 inch box extensions for the plastic boxes.
I'll have to see what I can find. It's unbelievable that this guy put the flush. The damn boxes come marked. And naturally, they sit a bit crooked because he put them flush.
There's no way I could have got a 12 foot sheet down there. It was rough getting an 8 footer down there. I really think the walls that I put up will be far straighter.
That is the problem with long board plus it's heavier and sometimes harder to hang. JMO though, I'd rather deal with more effort with hanging than a lot of extra mudding and sanding.
Brew.... are there are old school tricks to get my outlets spaced out 1/2 inch? This butthole made the boxes flush with the studs, so they sit back in 1/2 inch. He even cut down the plugs so they would fit in the holes (if that makes sense),
ROFL Who did that lol ? Wow, that's like a homeowner mistake, a very green one lol. Seriously why? Is this the same guy that sanded your breaker box panel lol.
Yea, the extensions would probably work, go with the 1/2" of course, better to be a little smaller then to big in that situation. I've never had to use them tho, so....