Fence looks great! Like the color, that's a stain correct?

 

Thanks Brew!.Yes, it is a stain made by Behr. The pavers are to make a little patio on the side of the house... roughly 220 square feet of space where nothing grows because of the neighbors trees. It's in shade most of the day.... so we figured we may as well make it an enjoyable spot.

I've got a guy making me some window well covers.... and I think the shop is going to get some metal panel siding. I want to spiff up the yard a bit.

I got a bid to cover the existing patio which is 32' x 12' - and he wants $4100 to do it. Not too sure if that's a good deal or not. Probably going to get a couple more bids.

 

Well no luck with the smaller impact and the removal bit. Next step is to get the acetylene torch from my dad or buy a welding kit and let it burn (metaphorically.)

 

Holy cow, White! You've been a busy beaver! I changed the motor in noisy bathroom vent yesterday, cleaned up some floor liners (Jeep) to put on CL, and went to the grocery. Lazy by comparison!

 

Haha yea , I guess it's still that time of year to invest some time and cash into your very own spot on the map. It's like anual and **** in some cases lol.

 

I guess, or you could add a little (actually a lot, I have two little tanks on standby I expect) Ox to MAPP gas and cut them off quickly. Home Depot has those little cheap kits, consists of a mixing valve. Cut's thru as Acetylene would. I used the system in the past, work well on small stuff. Not the big stuff as you go thru oxygen pretty quick. In your case, it'll work fine.

But if you going to purchase a welding set up anyway, you won't need any of that. Welding a good nut on the stud heats everything up quickly. mount the welded nut quickly with a socket of whatnot, will most likely break it loose. Heat is the corrosion catalyst, having something to bite on (the nut) should do it.

Also, welding a nut on , - make sure everything is clean (wire brush attachment) hold the torch at the correct distance at an angle, pull the trigger and count a full 2 seconds before releasing. Otherwise the nut will most likely break off. Counting it out is best way if you're unfamiliar with it.

 

Btw Aragorn, I forgot to mention, in case you haven't noticed yet, you might not of due to the corrosion. But, all factory original studs are hexed 5mm on the tips, that's how they are installed. Studs are drove in with a 5mm, then the nuts placed after the manifold is in place.

That 5mm hex is fairly strong, have you attempted to back the studs out with a 5mm yet ? Might want to clean the stud ends if rusted and try the 5mm on them. If corrosion hasn't eaten the tips away, heat the stud up with a bottle of MAPP gas, then mount the 5mm socket. MAPP gas will get it hot enough by itself...that's for sure.

 

I couldn't figure out what size the stud heads were thanks, not sure I have that size bit but I'll look (and buy one if I don't.) I've tried both the gearwrench 6mm stud removal tool and the gearwrench 1/4" bolt removal tools and the bolt tool grabs but the impact won't turn it. Granted I hadn't heated the bolt recently so need to do that again and see if I can get the buggers turning. I'll have to get some MAPP as all I've got currently is propane. Looks like I'll have to take apart the Kobalt 1/2" impact gun that I've never used as well since it's not working. Or buy a new one, it was relatively cheap when I got it. The ends of the studs on the driver's side at least are pretty clean. Relatively speaking. I'll get pictures in the morning when the light is better.

 

5mm is 13/64 standard I believe, so either or. You'll want a socket though as the hex is elongated sort of. Regardless, a socket will have more strength. Yea MAAP gas (yellow bottle) is sold everywhere around here, burns much hotter than propane and roughly the same price. Mix it with oxygen and it will cut steel. You won't need oxygen though, unless cutting them off is the only option. MAAP will provide plenty of heat by itself to break down corrosion. Those studs and nuts don't usually lock in the heads, they fuse to the manifold at the nut due to the nut being a low grade of steel...highly corrosive. So that's where you want to direct the heat. Yea and again, the studs are a grade of stainless, nut are not...factory nuts are junk in comparison.

 

I appreciate all the advice, this project has taken way longer than I wanted it to due to weather and other interruptions.