Ok, so I'm trying to replace the control arms and am overlooking something but I can't get the LCA to release from the torsion bar. Tension has been taken off the bar and it can turn freely but haven't pulled the key yet (was hoping not to but may have to.) I've tried soaking in PB Blaster for almost three days straight, a hammer, heat (all I have is a small butyl torch so may not be enough), and now a gear puller (with hammer and heat) and the bastard won't move. Suggestions please? Once that's out I can finally get one side of the truck done.

 

Geez $100 cheaper and I bet it's in better shape than mine

Well "was" in better shape till I spent a ton of man hours and elbow grease. still need to hit those spindles one last time.

 

Knock it forward from the cross member. There's a hole on the back where the key is. Knock it through the key and LCA, I've never see one not come free. If that doesn't work take the whole assembly out. Could've had it out by now!

 

I've never seen LCA go bad on these trucks....uppers yes. The bushings always look like hell on the outside, but they're tight.

 

I swear I've seen a tool for getting them out on one of the videos I've watched... Like a C-clamp with a forked end.


EDIT: This is the tool I was thinking of.... turns out it's for a Ranger/Explorer. But I don't see why you couldn't make something like this work out for you.






https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...sion_bar.shtml

 

Tried that too but may not be using a big enough hammer.

 

The balljoint on the lower is shot and while I could replace it the LCA's were included in the kit I got from rockauto along with the tie rod ends. If I'm tearing it apart I'll just replace the LCA's since I have them.

Edit: Or at least that was the theory.

 

Right, yea, that stuff wears and can replaced separately. I should of specified, I was referring to the bushings only. I realize they can look like hell on the outside, I thought about replacing the lowers more than once because of that alone, as many have. I had it all apart, not to the point where your at, I was replacing the UCA's, tie rods (ends) and LBJ's. At that point I could test/check the LCA bushings. As bad as they looked, there wasn't any wear to speak of...IME anyway. Did you find wear or slop in the bushings ? Definitely not a bad idea to change them out, I'm not against that...couldn't determine they needed it personally.

 

Couldn't see any slop in the bushings themselves but the truck failed state inspection for the ball joints and I had a ton of toe out on the front. The lower rubber boots on the ball joints were basically destroyed and there was no grease in them for far too long and the uppers were in shreds when I bought the truck so knew they needed to be replaced. Figured I'd do it once and never have to touch them again. Replacing the shocks as well since at least the driver's side one is blown and probably the passenger as well. About the only things I'm not replacing at this point is the brakes (which are better than expected) and the steering knuckle. Tempted to paint the brake calipers to match the shocks but I may be too lazy for that. Did go ahead and buy a new set of keys for the torsion bars so can kill those as well. Now just need to find a big enough hammer to knock the bar out.

ETA: I think the passenger side does though but haven't gotten that far yet. It was noisy the whole time I've owned the truck.

 

Little off subject, but seeing your inspection information reminded me of this.... A guy on the local Mustang page posted a car for sale that "Passed Emissions", "Passed Smog", and "Passed I/M" - which in Utah, all three are the same thing.