Gotts intake modification
DIY
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,325
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From: South Florida and NYC part time
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 859
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From: Wyoming
Pale Rider
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 22
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From: North Carolina
I’m new to this site and by no means an engineer or a certified mechanic. I have read the posts on this topic from front to back and believe this is something I am going to try however I have a few questions about this process that I have not seen answered.
I understand in theory that if the baffles are removed in this intake chamber and the end is opened up on the firewall side that the air intake opening will be increased by at least 1 inch which would increase the cubic feet per minute air flow capacity. Has anyone figured out the additional CFM difference between the 2 inch opening and the 3 inch modification?
This brings me to my second question, unless this additional air flow capacity is inducted it would actually be a static capacity of air flow and does it actually induce more air then the factory 2 inch opening. If you open your mouth wide and exhale you release a large volume of air but no pressure, and half of an exhale pushed through a straw would be a smaller volume of air but under intense pressure.
Since engines make more power with cool outside air than the hot ambient air found in the engine bay, it seems logical to tap high-pressure pockets to feed air to the engine similarly to cowl induction or a supercharger. I don’t know that just opening the intake up to a larger size static in nature would make a difference, unless there is an induction process through the firewall itself. Increasing the air pressure around an intake artificially crams more air into the engine than the static air could from a larger intake opening absent induction.
My last question brings me to the mass air flow sensor. This sensor is located in between the air flow to measure and send signals to the on board computer. Would it be beneficial to just make this Gott modification and let the computer reset itself in its on time verses resetting the computer upon modification? It would appear that any variance is going to pass through the sensor, regardless if you keep the intake stock, open the intake by an inch or force air through the intake. The sensor will make the measurements and adjustments in real time. I think the only way that you could fool it is to provide an intake source that circumvents the sensor.
Anyway, think I’ll give it a try, I was just wondering if anybody out here had any of these answers or questions as well.
I understand in theory that if the baffles are removed in this intake chamber and the end is opened up on the firewall side that the air intake opening will be increased by at least 1 inch which would increase the cubic feet per minute air flow capacity. Has anyone figured out the additional CFM difference between the 2 inch opening and the 3 inch modification?
This brings me to my second question, unless this additional air flow capacity is inducted it would actually be a static capacity of air flow and does it actually induce more air then the factory 2 inch opening. If you open your mouth wide and exhale you release a large volume of air but no pressure, and half of an exhale pushed through a straw would be a smaller volume of air but under intense pressure.
Since engines make more power with cool outside air than the hot ambient air found in the engine bay, it seems logical to tap high-pressure pockets to feed air to the engine similarly to cowl induction or a supercharger. I don’t know that just opening the intake up to a larger size static in nature would make a difference, unless there is an induction process through the firewall itself. Increasing the air pressure around an intake artificially crams more air into the engine than the static air could from a larger intake opening absent induction.
My last question brings me to the mass air flow sensor. This sensor is located in between the air flow to measure and send signals to the on board computer. Would it be beneficial to just make this Gott modification and let the computer reset itself in its on time verses resetting the computer upon modification? It would appear that any variance is going to pass through the sensor, regardless if you keep the intake stock, open the intake by an inch or force air through the intake. The sensor will make the measurements and adjustments in real time. I think the only way that you could fool it is to provide an intake source that circumvents the sensor.
Anyway, think I’ll give it a try, I was just wondering if anybody out here had any of these answers or questions as well.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,962
Likes: 14
From: Texas
I'm not an expert but I'll give a few of your questions a try.
The pressure shouldn't matter too much. The point of the modification is to replace the constraint of the 2"( it may even be smaller than that) part going into the wheel well by replacing it with a 3" tube. The throttle body and the intake tube after the filter is 3" or 3 1/2". So by increasing the diameter you reduce the constraint caused by the factory tube diameter which allows more air to get to the engine to ignite the fuel.
It goes into the wheel well because in that part of the truck under the hood the wheel well is where the coldest air is located. The aftermarket TRUE cold air intakes usually get air from behind the headlight or lower, which if you have a 5.4l engine you can have another tube go into the one that goes into the wheel well and collects air from behind the headlight as well.
Just don't have your intake collect air behind the air filter for obvious reasons.
Hope that helps, if it doesn't then well I tried
The pressure shouldn't matter too much. The point of the modification is to replace the constraint of the 2"( it may even be smaller than that) part going into the wheel well by replacing it with a 3" tube. The throttle body and the intake tube after the filter is 3" or 3 1/2". So by increasing the diameter you reduce the constraint caused by the factory tube diameter which allows more air to get to the engine to ignite the fuel.
It goes into the wheel well because in that part of the truck under the hood the wheel well is where the coldest air is located. The aftermarket TRUE cold air intakes usually get air from behind the headlight or lower, which if you have a 5.4l engine you can have another tube go into the one that goes into the wheel well and collects air from behind the headlight as well.
Just don't have your intake collect air behind the air filter for obvious reasons.
Hope that helps, if it doesn't then well I tried
