I'm in the process of putting my truck back together after this repair (I'll write a lessons learned later). I'm trying to remove and replace the front crankshaft seal in the timing cover before I put it back on the engine but cannot get the old seal out. I read in a previous post someone using a large diameter socket (just smaller than the seal OD) to get it out. At the moment I don't have a socket big enough for that. I was wondering if anyone else has some tricks up their sleeve for this.

Thanks in advance!

 

A flat head screwdriver & a hammer. The bigger the end the better, or use a chisel.

 

Chisel worked like a charm. Thanks!

 

just done an oil change on the truck and no low rev rattle/chain slap to be heard at all.

just a quick point,i visited two local garages(i am in sask canada) for just the labour charge for changing out the cam phazer,timing chain etc and its
anything from $1200 upwards plus taxes.
i was buying the parts as we in canada get really butt ****** over car parts

 

Hey 99,
Getting ready to do this also. So removal was easy with chisel. How did you reinstall the new seal?
Haven't torn truck apart yet; Just getting ready.
Thanks!

 

Just so guys doing the lockouts know; Of course the engine doesn't become a 16 valve... It will still be a 24 valve motor. The point is, the tuner will 'tell' the motor lockouts are installed. Reconfigure the brain and avoid check-engine lights from turning on.

I am also hoping to avoid changing the timing sprocket if not showing wear.
Not sure if it's mandatory??

This truck is clean and well cared for. Looking forward to driving it for many years.

 

A little aggravating but you can use a hammer to tap it back in, just requires patience when you 1st try to tap it in as you have to keep the seal very straight or it the seal will keep popping back out.


Other
I normally grease or oil the seal after reinstalling the timing cover on the engine.







.

 

I used a piece of 2x4 wrapped in plastic and tapped it in with a hammer.

When taking the old seal out, I put two pieces of 2x4 under the cover right next to the seal/hole to make sure I didn't crack the cover.

 

I learned the hard way. DON'T USE DORMAN PHASERS. It also broke the 3 little dowel pins.

 

Alright, I'm about at the end of my rope. Every time I seem to "get it fixed" it comes back.

Bought it June, Shaking/rough idle at low speeds going into parking lots etc. Replaced VCT solenoid on drivers side, cleared it up. Drove it for about a month, shortly before vacation, it idled rough at a single red light, just once, after I really put my foot into it. Code for CPS sensor on drivers side. Replaced it. Ran fine.

Drove it to Oregon, 3k miles round trip. I got a timing over advanced code while I was there, ran flawlessly on the way. Cleared the code, no issues rest of the trip, didn't notice it running bad at time of the code either. On the return trip, she gave me all sorts of grief. Got it home, changed out the passenger side CPS and Solenoid as well as did an oil change with thicker oil. Ran great until a couple weeks ago.

Had a random light it didn't like again, same codes, same thing. I had put 85 gas into it, so I thought maybe that was doing something, also thought maybe the oil was getting too thick with the temperature dropping going into fall. Kept doing it while I was pulling a car trailer + a car for about an hour, only at red lights, maybe 80% of the time, depending on AC off or on. Ran seafoam, switched to 87 gas, changed the oil to thinner oil.

Ran it today, ran fine until a red light, rough idle, CEL. This time; however, I got codes for open circuits including P0010, in addition to the over retarded timing code I normally get. I've gotten these codes before, of course when I unplug everything and run it without CPS/Solenoids plugged in.

Unplugging the CPS/Solenoids does not fix the issue or help it. Both solenoids/CPS are new. Oil is new. Right now it does it sort of randomly, sometimes I'm fine, sometimes it gives me grief. The confusing part, is why I'm suddenly getting these new codes for open circuits, now I'm thinking that in reality- the ghost I've been chasing in circles is actually bad wiring/electrical somewhere. Added to this suspicion is the fact that cruise only works sometimes, and will randomly shut off for zero reason sometimes.

She's an 04 fx4, 5.4 with 171k now. Runs flawlessly when not at idle, pulls trailers fine, no misfires, I've hauled cattle and cars no issues, it's just the idle. I'm about ready to just say screw it and put up with the bad idle if I can't solve it... or Just sell it. Any thoughts?