Sorry I can't say. They say it's not polite to mention another forum on here. But here is something like you are looking for.


https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-pan-pump.html

 

Hey All, I've had this tick in my 05 Expo for years. I've noticed that it gets noisier right before I need an oil change, then gets quieter after. I drove by the Ford dealer today to have them listen. They said it was probably the Cam Phasers and it was about a $3K repair. So I came back and googled the problem and found this forum. I also found a fix from Livernois for a Cam Phaser repair kit for $700. Their repair kit sounds different that what I've read on this thread so I'm wondering which is the more valid repair for this annoying noise? Do I need to get the cam phasers (and other recommended parts) replaced as was originally recommended by S Vares? Or, since that original post was from 5 years ago, is there a more updated or better repair like the Livernois one? Either way, I'm not mechanically inclined and will have to rely on a mechanic to do the work. But I'd rather be educated before going in so I don't waste time and money. Also, if you happen to know a mechanic you'd recommend in east side of Seattle area, I'd be happy to look them up!

Many thanks!!

 

wrightbenz ---the pan on my 04 F150 4x4 was not that bad, You will need a jack or 2 and stands. You will have to remove the cross brace and the sway bar, take out the passenger side bolt (s) that hold the axle and jack the truck up and pry the axle down, you only need 2-3" in order to manipulate the pan out. The 4 front pan bolts are a little hard to get to. Look, Read, understand the process before starting the timing job. There are a few spots on the heads, cover, and pan that require some gasket sealer in addition to the gasket. I went from lockouts to OE phasers and will sell my Livernois kit and maybe the phaser and crank tool... (PM). My pan had guide parts and a few bugs LOL.. Also if your changing the pump ( you need to) it's a breeze with the pan off.

 

F150torqued you got my attention on this one (and many others)
I'll have to invest in one of these jewels....

Thanks





[@wirghtbenz
If you're adding oil pressure gauge, this is a highly worthwhile investment: htps://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-22mm-1-5-thread/]

 

This is one of the longest threads I have ever seen
And I am a big car guy. lol I guess it says a lot about this
Issue. Ford should be embarrassed but they take no responsibility.
Blame it on the oil filter what a joke.

 

Sounds good, just another important step in the job.
Did you change the pan gasket ? I already ordered the tools or I would have taken you up on that.

 

If your careful and the old one is not compromised you can reuse it, I had one so I changed mine, along with valve and front cover.
Just my 2 cents
Change oil pump, pre prime it
use the old style steel adjusters
use ford phasers
drop and clean pan
on my f150 the pass valve cover was a pita due to the trans and ac line, I did it without discharging the ac.
PS pump is a little tricky
Change and or clean everything you can while your in there.
remove cam cap 1 and clean oil metering galley.

 

I am changing the oil pump. Planning to use the updated tensioners as they seem to be the recommendation from ford now.
I already have the valve covers off as well as the front cover.
Using all OEM ford parts. Already purchased and waiting for install.

 

if you have access to the phaser and crank holding tool there nice to have..
on the chains pull the side opposite the tensioners tight and when you pull the clip or pin on the tensioner make sure timing did not move. Take a ton of pictures. I'm still doubting myself on a few things but the pictures I took look correct.. If your cams are out check all the passages, remove the vct bodies and clean them, be careful with ps pump, I got mad and stupidly drove the shaft thru the casting,

 

I purchased all the tools mentioned. I removed the cams completely as shown in the 4 part video series. This way I can inspect all of the lash adjusters and not have to worry about valve issues when I am timing the thing. The rollers stay out until the chains are set and timed. I think that's the point he makes in the video.

I did drop the pan and to me this is the worst part of the job. Working under the vehicle is always harder than the top plus these are big fasteners that need to be removed some are a pain. Pan is back on along with hi performance oil pump.
I will start installing Chains tomorrow.