If just bought in June and history unknown, I would start with the basics. Pull throttle body and clean first. Next look at plug replacement and or coil packs. I have had several bad coil packs over the years that never threw a code. When my alternator was going out I began having wired running and electrical issues. Of course it could be the dreaded cam phaser problem/oil pressure issues. I have replaced all this stuff and more over the years and never once got a check engine light or stored code. Start with the simple stuff first and work your way up

 

Just throwing this out here. I purchased the Spark Plug Removal Tool kit with the anticipation of a few broken plugs when doing this Timing fix. What I found was the wrong plugs were installed (and they didn't need this tool to remove them) ~ that was a bad news / good news situation.


So, I now have an unused Spark Plug Removal Tool kit for sale. Send me a note if interested. I have no need for it.


Thanks!
Warden

 

I've got one unused kit, and one lightly used kit available as well.

That's 3 kits on this forum.. so 3 people that won't have to pay the full price for a tool you'll use once..

 

I had read this entire thread with interest, following the successes and failures of folks with the dreaded diesel noise. My 2006 started developing that same sound last year. At first it wasn't bad, but recently it's gotten to the point that I feared for the welfare of the valves. I had made several parts lists along with prices and suppliers in anticipation of replacing/upgrading everything from the oil pump to the valve lifters - about $2500.00 in parts alone. But after careful consideration and much angst, I traded it in on an F250 Super Duty. The F150 was down to 7 mpg on a good day, so getting 14mpg with the 6.4L has me feeling pretty darn good, actually. Not having to tear an engine down and hope everything goes back together properly is also a great load off my mind. The F150 XLT regular cab was a great truck for the money, and I definately got my use out of it, but the F250 Lariat with leather and power everything is a whole other level of comfort.
Good luck to those who have the diesel problem and decide to take it on.

 

http://www.trucktrend.com/cool-truck...6-4l-problems/

 

I should have mentioned I got the 6.2L gasser...

 

Ok, Thanks in big part to Vares who started this thread I got the whole kit-n-kaboodle done... Phasers, Chains, Oil pump, water pump... everything.
First time running was out of time... took apart, made damn sure it was timed right. Thankfully it doesn't appear to have any damage.
When I first start it, running cold it is QUIET and idles great. AFTER it warms up, it immediately goes into ROUGH IDLE and the pending codes are P2195 and P2197... with a P1000 thrown in too.

Double check air intake connection, all hoses, took apart PCV valve... all looks good. Still bad.

Any ideas???

 

Sorry this is a bit long…..


So I thought the next time I’d come back to this thread it’d be in triumphant glory…..unfortunately I’m not quite there.
First, thanks to everyone to contributing to this thread and answering my PM’s, it has been invaluable.


Background:
Purchased 2004 F150 FX4 with 98K miles about a year ago. It had the diesel sound, but seemingly no other issues (I was not fully educated on this problem at that point). A few days after purchase, it threw a P0012 code. Dang.
For the most part it ran ok, with an occasional episode of running really rough. I started with the basics and did the following:
Replaced plugs (OEM) and COPs (OEM)
Replaced VCT Solenoids (OEM)
Removed and cleaned throttle body and MAF


All of those items improved how the truck ran, but did not get rid of the P0012. Also it started developing chain slap/rattle though, especially at start up, at which point I was convinced there was a broken chain guide. So I started ordering parts for this repair.


Once I got the timing cover off, I found the passenger side fixed chain guide was obliterated. I dropped that oil pan and cleaned all the plastic out of the pan and pick-up screen/tube. I replaced all the timing components (OEM) as well as all the lash adjusters (04 OEM) and followers using this thread as a guide. It wasn’t bad, just took me a long time to complete.


The only thing I was worried about with this repair was messing up the timing, and now I’m fearful that I may have messed it up.


When I started the truck for the first time, I held the pedal to the floor (as I had done many times before) to crank it without starting it, to prime the oil system. Unfortunately, the truck did start right up and it was running/idling like crap, no response from the throttle. Well, turns out I had not reconnected the harness to the throttle body, I just missed it. Dammit. I've heard some say the chains could jump a tooth, but after seeing how this is put together, its hard to believe that could happen....can it?



Once I connected the harness properly, the truck ran seemingly great. Very quiet compared to before. I did the battery relearn process, all seemed well. However, the more I drove it that day, it seemed like it started to develop a miss, and got worse the more I drove, to the point where it started throwing codes.


The first time I got a P0308, cylinder #8 misfire and a P0316. I cleared the codes, drove it some more, and it came back. So I pulled #8 COP and plug, they looked fine (still looked new). I didn’t have any of this prior to performing the timing repair. So I swapped #8 COP with #7.


Next time I ran truck, I did not drive it, just let it idled up to temperature. I could feel the miss while sitting in the truck, but no code. When I put it in D, idle and miss got worse. Turned A/C on, got worse yet, then threw a Pending Code P0352, Ignition Coil “B” Primary/Secondary Circuit. Turned truck off and let cool down. Cleared code and tried it again, same thing, same P0352 code. I pulled COP but not plug this time, COP looked fine, for grins I swapped it with #1 COP.


Couple days later, ran truck again. Again, could feel slight miss while at idle and in park. This time I drove it, at least 10 miles, and I could feel the miss every now and then, but no code. I did notice though at lower RPM, like when cruising at 45mph in OD, if I tried to accelerate it would studder. Eventually with enough driving, it threw a pending P0174 (System to Lean), P0307 (#7 misfire) and P0316 (misfire on startup).


The fact that the codes are all over the place makes me think my timing is off slightly (especially since it did not do any of this prior to the repair), but to be honest I’m not sure.


I read conflicting info on how to keep it timed properly, so here is what I did and you can tell me if/where I went wrong.


Prior to removing chains, I rotated the engine to put the crank dot at 6:00 and the crank keyway at about 10:00. The cam phaser timing marks roughly in the 11:00-1:00 range. I did not put the engine at TDC (perhaps my downfall?).


When I removed the old chains, the driver’s side cam really didn’t move. The passenger side cam did move a bit. When I reinstalled the new chains, I aligned the timing mark on the dot on the crank sprocket, and then just turned the passenger side cam back to where it had rotated from to put the timing mark in between the two marked chains. I think I had to adjust the driver’s side slight as well, but not much.



So, I checked multiple times and had the timing marks and marked chain links all lined up, but perhaps I did not begin the process (at removal of chains) with the cams and crank in the right orientation???


So now, I’m debating whether or not I have to go back in and is where I’d like some input from the experts here. It’s not hard to do, just takes a lot of time, but obviously I need to get it right.


Also, assuming the timing is the culprit, I’ve got two questions so I make sure I get it right this time:
1) 1) Once I get the timing cover off again and without removing the chains, is there a way I can verify that it is out of time and by how much (counting chain links?)?
2) 2) If I verify it is out of time, how exactly do I get it back in time now? Rotate to TDC, remove chains and reinstall with timing marks aligned with marked chain links???


Thanks again. If anyone has any questions about the tear down or reassembly, I pretty much used all the tips and tricks in this thread and never ran into anything I could not figure out or get past. Feel free to PM me with questions.

 

Did you replace or at least clean the VCT solenoids?
Did you use Motorcraft parts or aftermarket?

 

Dmhj99;
If I understand correctly, you swapped the #8 coil to #7 after getting the p0308, then got a p0307 code? Sounds like something's wrong with that coil.
Also, if you were having misfires before changing the plugs and cop's, you O2's may need to be r&r'd, or the cats may be failing.