The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Dmhj99;
If I understand correctly, you swapped the #8 coil to #7 after getting the p0308, then got a p0307 code? Sounds like something's wrong with that coil.
Also, if you were having misfires before changing the plugs and cop's, you O2's may need to be r&r'd, or the cats may be failing.
If I understand correctly, you swapped the #8 coil to #7 after getting the p0308, then got a p0307 code? Sounds like something's wrong with that coil.
Also, if you were having misfires before changing the plugs and cop's, you O2's may need to be r&r'd, or the cats may be failing.
I have one of my old COPs, I can try swapping one of those into #7 now (before buying another new one).
I pretty much changed the plugs and COPs right after I bought the truck, so I don't know if it was misfiring then with previous owner, but it didn't have any misfire codes.
I think that did it! Swapped in one of the old COPs into #7, does not seem to have an misfire now. Drove it around for 20 minutes, no misfire or misfire codes. We'll see what happens tomorrow when I drive it to work.
So much for my "NEW" COPs.....
That's good to hear! Sometimes even brand new parts are lemons. Can you warranty out the faulty cop?
If just bought in June and history unknown, I would start with the basics. Pull throttle body and clean first. Next look at plug replacement and or coil packs. I have had several bad coil packs over the years that never threw a code. When my alternator was going out I began having wired running and electrical issues. Of course it could be the dreaded cam phaser problem/oil pressure issues. I have replaced all this stuff and more over the years and never once got a check engine light or stored code. Start with the simple stuff first and work your way up
I cleaned the throttle body/MAF, no difference. I unplugged the cam sensors and the VCT solenoids, and the truck runs somewhat better now, but I have to either shift into Neutral or run the AC to keep it from having a bad idle. I still have the diesel ticking. I was under the impression that if it was the phasers themselves, unplugging these items would fix this problem and I would not have ticking/rough idle if everything was unplugged.
I could take the alternator in and have it tested, as I do occasionally get a couple other electrical problems like my cruise control not always working..
I get codes frequently, I've never had a shortage of codes.
I cleaned the throttle body/MAF, no difference. I unplugged the cam sensors and the VCT solenoids, and the truck runs somewhat better now, but I have to either shift into Neutral or run the AC to keep it from having a bad idle. I still have the diesel ticking. I was under the impression that if it was the phasers themselves, unplugging these items would fix this problem and I would not have ticking/rough idle if everything was unplugged.
I could take the alternator in and have it tested, as I do occasionally get a couple other electrical problems like my cruise control not always working..
I cleaned the throttle body/MAF, no difference. I unplugged the cam sensors and the VCT solenoids, and the truck runs somewhat better now, but I have to either shift into Neutral or run the AC to keep it from having a bad idle. I still have the diesel ticking. I was under the impression that if it was the phasers themselves, unplugging these items would fix this problem and I would not have ticking/rough idle if everything was unplugged.
I could take the alternator in and have it tested, as I do occasionally get a couple other electrical problems like my cruise control not always working..
We have had many customers tell us they had similar issues that did not improve much or at all after unplugging the solenoids and cam sensors, other than the electrical issues you have mentioned. Once they install our cam phaser noise repair kit and resolve any other similar issues like broken timing chain guides the truck ran great. Just had a customer yesterday call back and thank us stating his truck has not ran this well since the day he brought it home from the used car lot. That was after he had spent over $1,500 and countless hours trying to resolve the rough idle, DTC codes for timing, and dieseling / ticking. He drove it for months having to put the truck in neutral and rev it at every stop after it warmed up just to keep it running smoothly. If it starts up and runs decent cold then gets worse once it reaches operating temp, I would strongly suggest to lockout the phasers and install the tune afterwards to ensure the vehicle understands the VCT system has been eliminated. These trucks are all going to continuously go through phasers over and over again no matter how much time and money we throw at them trying to figure out that they have a flawed design from factory. This is why our wholesale accounts are buying 20+ kits each time they call because they know it is the only permanent solution to the dreaded cam phaser issues all 3 valve mod engines will experience at some point in their lifetime.
Also I suggest to leave the camshaft position sensors plugged in if you want to make sure the vehicle runs properly and avoid any check engine lights they may cause while unplugged. There were recalls on these vehicles also for the cruise control issues which many people ending up disabling to avoid any issues as well. So if it never has worked since you bought it someone may have disabled it.
Last edited by Livernois Motorsports; Oct 14, 2015 at 11:41 AM.
I live in northern VA and have the complete cam phaser repair kit coming in later this month (Ford OEM parts). I am interested in getting quotes from people to replace both sides. Otherwise, I will eventually do it myself when I have some free time but I won't be looking forward to it...
Here's what I bought:
Amazon.com: Ford 5.4L 3V Camshaft Drive Phaser Repair Kit - Phaser Sprockets, Tensioners, Guides, Chains Kit: Automotive
DM me and let me know your price.
Here's what I bought:
DM me and let me know your price.
I live in northern VA and have the complete cam phaser repair kit coming in later this month (Ford OEM parts). I am interested in getting quotes from people to replace both sides. Otherwise, I will eventually do it myself when I have some free time but I won't be looking forward to it...
Here's what I bought: Amazon.com: Ford 5.4L 3V Camshaft Drive Phaser Repair Kit - Phaser Sprockets, Tensioners, Guides, Chains Kit: Automotive
DM me and let me know your price.
Here's what I bought: Amazon.com: Ford 5.4L 3V Camshaft Drive Phaser Repair Kit - Phaser Sprockets, Tensioners, Guides, Chains Kit: Automotive
DM me and let me know your price.
If you plan on keeping the vehicle and want to make sure this is the last / only time this is going to be repaired, I would strongly suggest to lock out the new phasers before they are installed. Spoke to a guy 2 hours ago that replaced everything at the dealership basically same components as you have listed and it made it about 7 months before the issues started coming back again. And this was on an engine that only had 90,000 miles on it.
We are in Michigan, so unfortunately that is not probably going to work out or I would send you a quote. Definitely a great choice using the OEM components!
If you plan on keeping the vehicle and want to make sure this is the last / only time this is going to be repaired, I would strongly suggest to lock out the new phasers before they are installed. Spoke to a guy 2 hours ago that replaced everything at the dealership basically same components as you have listed and it made it about 7 months before the issues started coming back again. And this was on an engine that only had 90,000 miles on it.
If you plan on keeping the vehicle and want to make sure this is the last / only time this is going to be repaired, I would strongly suggest to lock out the new phasers before they are installed. Spoke to a guy 2 hours ago that replaced everything at the dealership basically same components as you have listed and it made it about 7 months before the issues started coming back again. And this was on an engine that only had 90,000 miles on it.

