When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For the front oil pan bolts, I used a 1/4" wobble extension. A universal joint may fit, but I don't know. To get them off, wrench will due, but I like to torque things correctly when putting them on.*(see foot note) For the ps pump, I recommend removing the pulley. With the correct tools, it's quicker and allows you to drain and refill the ps fluid (mercon v atf, exactly what you put in your transmission). You do need to replace the nylon washer for the ps hose. However, you don't have to. Take the two easy bolts off first. Then use a small wrench fed through the pulley for the third. When the bolt head hits the ps hose, slide the pump down and wrench the bolt some more. Eventually you'll get it. * Yes I understand that an extension can become a torsion spring and cause false torque readings. However, the amount of torque required to twist the steel is far more than what is being applied to these and most bolts.
Thanks for all the info this is really the first major job I've ever done, I finally got tired of paying other people who didn't even fix the problem. But I'm going to rent the power steering puller tomorrow from advance auto and give that a try hopefully I can have the cover off tomorrow. I also have a slow oil leak that has been leaking from around the bottom of the timing cover and oil pan. I wonder if that loose chain wore the rtv sealant that's there and caused that leak?
Thanks for all the info this is really the first major job I've ever done, I finally got tired of paying other people who didn't even fix the problem. But I'm going to rent the power steering puller tomorrow from advance auto and give that a try hopefully I can have the cover off tomorrow. I also have a slow oil leak that has been leaking from around the bottom of the timing cover and oil pan. I wonder if that loose chain wore the rtv sealant that's there and caused that leak?
Your welcome. Check out the oil filter adapter gasket for leak. When mine leaked, it was dripping down to the oil pan. Could be that. And the best time to replace that $12 gasket is when the front accessories are off, and fluid is drained. There is coolant and oil flowing through the adapter.
Your welcome. Check out the oil filter adapter gasket for leak. When mine leaked, it was dripping down to the oil pan. Could be that. And the best time to replace that $12 gasket is when the front accessories are off, and fluid is drained. There is coolant and oil flowing through the adapter.
Yea I suspected that gasket but it is heavier on the passenger side. I already rented a crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer puller do you think that will work on the ps pulley so I don't have to rent another one?
Yea I suspected that gasket but it is heavier on the passenger side. I already rented a crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer puller do you think that will work on the ps pulley so I don't have to rent another one?
Thanks for letting me know how it went for you. I'd rather not drop the oil pan if I don't have to (my chain guides were in near perfect condition), but I'll think about it if the VCT solenoid doesn't do the trick. Are you still running heavier oil (5w30?).
Just out of convenience because my other vehicle is a Dodge 2500 Diesel and it runs the 15w-40 Delo oil, that was what I tried first and it worked like a champ. No codes at all anymore. I still run the motorcraft filters too. I was told by my Ford Mechanic that weight would be fine but definitely do not go any higher. The small oil galleys will stop up and not allow anything higher to flow properly. I've been running it for over a year with no issues at all. If the VCT code keeps popping and you are having an extremely rough idle but seems to go away at higher speeds then this is what I would expect would solve your problem. That skipping at idle is a clear indication of an oil pressure drop that causes the vct to fail and misalign the Phaser. This causes the engine to appear to be out of time. Once the oil pressure rises everything seems to work again until you let off the gas a traffic light and then it comes right back again. Hope this helps someone out there.
[MENTION=199261]kingbenjamin[/MENTION], Vert is correct, if you need to verify that the chain(s) did not jump, you have to open it back up. At that point, you need to put the harmonic balancer at 12:00 with the little tick mark on the balancer at about 1:00, verify the cam lobe positions again, if good, remove the phasers and chains and then line the colored links back up and install the phasers again. If you turn the engine after lining the links up, the colored links do not come exactly back to where they were if the engine is rotated 1 full rotation, its got something to do with the diameter of the phasers vs the diameter of the crank sprocket. Let us know what you decide to do, if you cant find a bad solenoid or something like that, it does make sense to just go back in and re-verify the chains.
you don't have to pull the phasers off again....if you do you have to buy a new $20 bolt to reinstall each one
For the front oil pan bolts, I used a 1/4" wobble extension. A universal joint may fit, but I don't know. To get them off, wrench will due, but I like to torque things correctly when putting them on.*(see foot note) For the ps pump, I recommend removing the pulley. With the correct tools, it's quicker and allows you to drain and refill the ps fluid (mercon v atf, exactly what you put in your transmission). You do need to replace the nylon washer for the ps hose. However, you don't have to. Take the two easy bolts off first. Then use a small wrench fed through the pulley for the third. When the bolt head hits the ps hose, slide the pump down and wrench the bolt some more. Eventually you'll get it. * Yes I understand that an extension can become a torsion spring and cause false torque readings. However, the amount of torque required to twist the steel is far more than what is being applied to these and most bolts.
ok, correct is correct, but I like to work smarter not harder. For the oil pan bolts we used a ratcheting wrench and took them off....easy peasy. As for the ps pump. Get yourself a ratcheting 10mm wrench. Take out the two outside bolts. Put the ratcheting wrench on the one behind the Pulley and start wrenching. Takes me 20 min. As the bolt comes out it will bind on the line coming off the pump. Just pull the pump down and keep going.
ok, correct is correct, but I like to work smarter not harder. For the oil pan bolts we used a ratcheting wrench and took them off....easy peasy. As for the ps pump. Get yourself a ratcheting 10mm wrench. Take out the two outside bolts. Put the ratcheting wrench on the one behind the Pulley and start wrenching. Takes me 20 min. As the bolt comes out it will bind on the line coming off the pump. Just pull the pump down and keep going.
I'm at a stand still now waiting for payday to order the timing kit from freedom racing. I will be replacing the phasers, chains, tensioners, guides, sprocket,gaskets etc.. I have read about different ways of doing this without losing time and can't decide how I want to do it. Some guys say just use vice grips on the cam shafts to hold them, while some say you have to put engine at tdc and take rocker arms off. My question is can't you just rotate the crankshaft so the dot on the sprocket is pointing to 6 a clock and install the new parts and wait to tighten and torque the cam phaser bolts after the chain is on so if it turns it will be in time?
[MENTION=185959]vintageman[/MENTION] [MENTION=74056]2002VertGt[/MENTION] Thanks for all your help and for checking up on me.
I've replaced the VCT solenoid today, as well as the camshaft (my dad came over to help and we were looking it over and realized there was a pretty substantial groove on the last cam lobe for cylinder 8, where I had a bad roller originally). Rotated the engine a few times to make sure everything turns right, and I think we're good.
I also started pulling the right-hand valve cover off so I can pull the front engine cover off to check the time. When I got the right engine cover disconnected, I realized that my left side phaser was showing the timing mark right next to the two colored links used for timing. I took a quick look at the right phaser, and it's in exactly the same place. Pictures attached.
Since this just happened as I was rotating the enginge, it seems to me this would be a good indication that I haven't gotten my timing off. Would you agree?
I'm gonna wait to put everything back together until you've had a chance to chime in - I'd really like to not pull the front engine cover off, but I will if I really need to so that I can be sure the timing is right.
Originally Posted by vintageman
[MENTION=199261]kingbenjamin[/MENTION], Vert is correct, if you need to verify that the chain(s) did not jump, you have to open it back up. At that point, you need to put the harmonic balancer at 12:00 with the little tick mark on the balancer at about 1:00, verify the cam lobe positions again, if good, remove the phasers and chains and then line the colored links back up and install the phasers again. If you turn the engine after lining the links up, the colored links do not come exactly back to where they were if the engine is rotated 1 full rotation, its got something to do with the diameter of the phasers vs the diameter of the crank sprocket. Let us know what you decide to do, if you cant find a bad solenoid or something like that, it does make sense to just go back in and re-verify the chains.
Was the arrow at the center of the 2 colored links when you originally put it together, I honestly think that every complete rotation of the engine moves the arrow 2 links off of center of the links but I may be wrong on this.
