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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 12:59 PM
  #2201  
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Is the tick mark on the harmonic balancer at the 1:00 position? If so, then you should be good to go, line the 2 colored links on the chain with the mark on the phasers between the 2 links and slightly turn the cam till the phaser slides on. At that point you can tighten the phaser bolts if you have all the guides on. Put a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt and kinda lean your foot on it to hold it still when you go to torque your phaser bolt, otherwise, the torque required will turn the chains and rotate everything and you will not get good torque on the bolts. After tightening all the bolts and all the timing stuff in place, rotate the engine a few revolutions to make sure that it moves smoothly without any kind of piston/valve contact. Don't forget to pull the tensioner holding retainers and don't forget to put the reluctor ring (teeth facing outwards) back on in front of the crank gear before you put the front engine cover on.

Good luck
Tom
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 02:23 PM
  #2202  
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Originally Posted by LaMartian
Nah, you don't have to take the radiator off although that would make it easier. I left mine on. But it does make it harder to align the timing mark on the chains and the timing mark on the crank sprocket. I just used my phone to get a picture down there and see if I was lined up or a link off either way.



Deep breathe. I will be jumping in on this tonight. Thank you for the heads-up on what to go after first. As a previous post stated it took 7 hours to get everything removed to the point of working on the timing, I'm planning a week or so of effort.


I'll be happy to get the front & valve covers off tonight. Would also like to start removing the spark plugs (quarter turn and soak with PB Blaster). If I can get that far, I'd call it a good night.


I've watched about 3 hours of YouTube on this repair as well as spark plug removed (both normal and broken ones). I've read about 100 pages of this thread. If I'm not ready now, I never will be.


Thank you to all those who have provided information to this thread. It gives confidence.


Last Friday night I assembled a motorcycle from the frame up (including installing the motor) in 5 hours. I can do it nearly blind-folded. I have no idea why this is intimidating me. Whew! I hope I report back with good news.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 02:47 PM
  #2203  
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Originally Posted by Fordjunkync
There in time correctly.

To see for yourself,
rotate the chain 2 teeth on the crank gear & phaser gear & you will see that the chain is on correct.
(Its just that FORD didnt use the marked links to aline by).

A unique case where two wrongs made a right. LOL But I see that the chain is simply off by a tooth, but the phasers and crank are timed correctly. Great observation!
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 02:51 PM
  #2204  
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Originally Posted by Phasedout
BTW, I opted out of buying $100 tool to remove the chosen rocker arms, and using method mentioned here with vise grips on phasers.
I don't know why people don't just take the cams out to remove the rocker arms and lifters. You've got everything open anyway.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #2205  
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Originally Posted by Warden888
Deep breathe. I will be jumping in on this tonight. Thank you for the heads-up on what to go after first. As a previous post stated it took 7 hours to get everything removed to the point of working on the timing, I'm planning a week or so of effort.


I'll be happy to get the front & valve covers off tonight. Would also like to start removing the spark plugs (quarter turn and soak with PB Blaster). If I can get that far, I'd call it a good night.


I've watched about 3 hours of YouTube on this repair as well as spark plug removed (both normal and broken ones). I've read about 100 pages of this thread. If I'm not ready now, I never will be.


Thank you to all those who have provided information to this thread. It gives confidence.


Last Friday night I assembled a motorcycle from the frame up (including installing the motor) in 5 hours. I can do it nearly blind-folded. I have no idea why this is intimidating me. Whew! I hope I report back with good news.
Yeah man, just take your time. My plugs took me twelve hours. My timing equipment / roller rockers / lifters took nine days. I would start work early in the morning before the sun came up over my neighbor's house and tree, then when it was beaming down on me and I was sweating like hell I'd wrap it up for the day. It's a pretty easy job, just got a couple annoying parts here and there. You'll see. It's all straightforward crap. Take out this bolt... Put the new part on... Put the bolt back... Anyone who can use a coloring book can do it.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 03:38 PM
  #2206  
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Yea we are meaning the same but just different words.

I see it 1 link off
or
2 teeth off
(would have to roll a chain barrel/roller over 2 teeth-to move a full link).



Originally Posted by Warden888
A unique case where two wrongs made a right. LOL But I see that the chain is simply off by a tooth, but the phasers and crank are timed correctly. Great observation!

Originally Posted by Fordjunkync
There in time correctly.
To see for yourself,
rotate the chain 2 teeth on the crank gear & phaser gear & you will see that the chain is on correct.
(Its just that FORD didnt use the marked links to aline by).



.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 09:08 PM
  #2207  
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Default Getting started - what to remove first?

I hope it's fine to post a link, but I found this description on getting the necessary parts removed to get the job going.


http://www.expertswrite.net/tech/tec...html?showall=1


I found answers to my questions - Thanks YouTube.

Last edited by Warden888; Aug 18, 2015 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 09:56 PM
  #2208  
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Originally Posted by LaMartian
I don't know why people don't just take the cams out to remove the rocker arms and lifters. You've got everything open anyway.
I did exactly that, all 24 of them piece of cake
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 12:11 AM
  #2209  
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Originally Posted by Rick's 06
I'd probably roughly go in the order of removal of.
Intake
Air filter housing
Fan
Shroud
Accessory Belt
PS Pump reservoir & Bracket
Intake Manifold
Valve covers
Tensioner and Idler pullies
Not sure about the alternator, but maybe.
Timing Cover.
Decent night, but didn't get as far as one would like. It was a learning experience, indeed.


Questions:
1) Do you have to remove the PS pump? I must have misread the list above.
2) How do you remove the PS Bracket? I can get the front nut off (obvious), but I've simply pulled it away from the valve cover. I can't figure where the bolts are in the bottom???
3) Having trouble removing the bolt in the harmonic balancer. My impact wrench likely isn't strong enough. I put some PB blaster on it and will try again tomorrow.
4) I did remove the water pump, but as I'm looking now, I think I only needed to remove the pulley. ??? No harm, just more stuff to put back on.


Thank you in advance.
Warden
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 07:23 AM
  #2210  
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Originally Posted by Warden888
Decent night, but didn't get as far as one would like. It was a learning experience, indeed.


Questions:
1) Do you have to remove the PS pump? I must have misread the list above.
2) How do you remove the PS Bracket? I can get the front nut off (obvious), but I've simply pulled it away from the valve cover. I can't figure where the bolts are in the bottom???
3) Having trouble removing the bolt in the harmonic balancer. My impact wrench likely isn't strong enough. I put some PB blaster on it and will try again tomorrow.
4) I did remove the water pump, but as I'm looking now, I think I only needed to remove the pulley. ??? No harm, just more stuff to put back on.


Thank you in advance.
Warden
You'll need to un bolt the PS pump and set it aside, the reservoir bracket is pain, you'll need to move your hand down the bracket until you feel the bolt. I used a flex head ratchet.if you have a puller for the balancer, screw one in with chain and bolt the other end on a bolt that the PS line bracket (bottom left of front cover bolt), the chain holds it in place.
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