That's one suggestion anyway. Other folks have luck with extensions and universal joints. Hell, try'em all and see what works for you.

 

I used a deep well 8mm socket with about a 2inch extension. All 1/4 drive and took about 2 minutes to get it out. On the passenger side, you will probably have to wrap a towel around the A/C fitting and disconnect the line to get the VC out. The towel helps to stop the dye in the line from spraying everywhere. Then you have to get the line purged at a shop and AC refilled. At least thats what I did on my 04, just couldn't get the AC lines out of the way to get the cover out. Good luck.
Tom

 

End of Day Three (2004 5.4L 3v Triton)


So, I removed so much more on the passenger side before attempting to remove the VC. Battery and box. The ECU (and it's bracket). Moved plenty of wires out of the way. Removed the bolts to the AC condenser, but didn't disconnect.


Replaced the remainder of the spark plugs (passenger side). Same thing, champion plugs. So I had no issue removing them without breaking them, but still concerning they were there. All good now with proper plugs (and anti-seize).


I took your advice and bought 1/4" socket, extensions, knuckle, and was able to remove all the top bolts without issue. Was able to get to the rear bolt pretty easy (hard, but much better with the smaller ratchet). To get the lower bolts, I went through the wheel well (what a breeze that was!!). The final bolt (furthest one away on the bottom) took a minute to remove, but it did come out.


Now, getting the damn cover off with all those wires and AC lines. Finally, as I mentioned, removed the AC condenser bolts and was able to pull it away (without removing the lines). FINALLY, it was out.


Now, I'm working on the front cover.


Please, help me get the damn PS pump off. I removed the two top bolts, but how do you get the others out? There's a line in the way so I can't get a wrench on the bolt. What am I missing here?


So far, I'm into this project (Day 1 - 5hrs, Day 2 - 6hrs, and Day 3 - 6hrs). 17 hours in three days and still only have the two valve covers off and plugs replaced. Seriously, this is the hardest thing I've done. Motorcycles are so simple since you can get to everything!! <grin>


Thanks in advance!!

 

rent a puller to pull the pulley off of the power steering pump. getting that out of the way will help you get to the other bolts. I am currently doing what you are doing but I am reassembling now. I chose to lock my phasers with that Livernois lock out kit . I also installed iron timing chain tensioners.

 

Luckily there is only one bolt on the bottom of the P/S pump, and one guide. There are two ways to get the P/S pump off.
1. Rent a P/S pump pulley puller/installer. Take off the pulley, then the hose. The bolt is easily accessible then. You'll need to buy a new nylon washer for the hose if you go this route.
2. Grab a thin 10mm (I think) wrench. Working through the pulley lossesn the bolt and pull the pump away as the bolt loosens. This way is a little tedious. Upon reassembly, install the bottom bolt first.

 

Good luck and BE CAREFUL with the puller... my pump's pulley did not want to come off and believe when I say I used both conventional and unorthodox methods. (Thankfully I was replacing the pump anyway so in the end I didn't care that I bent the damn thing.) So yes, it is absolutely possible to take the pump off without removing the pulley. Just take everything off the bottom right stud that is also doubling as the bottom right front cover bolt and move all that crap out of the way and you'll have just enough room to get a wrench under the pump and up in there.

 

Finished late last night. Truck is running very well. Could not have done this job without the valuable experience from those on this forum and this Thread. In addition to Phasers, Timing components, I also replace all 24 cam followers and lifters. As mentioned by others on this post, you do not need to follow the service manual procedure for removing a few chosen followers to relieve pressure on the cams. Since my truck was in time before the job, I rotated the crankshaft so the timing mark on the sprocket was at 6 o'clock and the keyway was at 11 o'clock. Then I marked the bearing caps and cam shaft between the lobes as my centerline. Vise grip the shaft and alternately loosened the bearing caps to relieve pressure on the lobes. Replaced the followers and lifters, then re-installed the camshaft. The only ford or OTC special tool I highly recommend you buy is the phaser locking tool Ford #303-1046 or OTC 567614. It's a must to torque the phasers. I bought it from Amazon which sold it with the stupid cheese stick for replacing Phasers without removing the front cover. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ER4DP6P045VPPN

I was able to remove the pass side valve cover without removing feon. You have to constantly apply upward pressure on the line while sliding the cover out. It's a little scratched, but outside appearance is no concern for me. When you get a Felpro cover gasket kit, it come with new bolt grommets so you have to remove the bolts from the cover to replace those grommets. I left them all out and set my covers in place, then added the bolts. Much easier when re-installing and not have bolts scratch any of the lobes. I really had no problem with the PS pump. I removed the 3 bolts without removing the pulley. See picture of my wrench set up next to each bolt you remove. For the lower bolt with the stud, you need to crawl under the truck and use a long extension to get there. Remove the lower radiator hose and oil filter to give you more room.



The front oil seal was scary as hell. The service manual tells you to install after front cover is installed using, you guessed it, a special tool costing over a hundred dollars. Local parts store did not have one to rent. I had a steel plate from a brake caliper pressing tool and a dead blow. Could have easily cracked the aluminum front cover with the pounding I did to get it installed. Other than that, It was a challenging job, but in the end I saved about $3,200 as the local Ford dealer gave me quote to do the job for $4,000. I bought OEM Phasers, Cloyes Timing kit, Felpro Valve cover gaskets and Victor Reinz front cover gasket. The cam followers and lifters I purchased from OEM Select Parts through eBay. Lowest cost I could fine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261549100318...true#vi-ilComp

If I think of anything else that might help others I'll post and will follow this Thread to help others as so many before me, helped be build the confidence to do it myself. Thanks again everyone.

 

Congrats welcome to the frat.

I just lined up the old seal on top of the new one and pounded it in with a rubber mallet while the front cover sat on my driveway.

 

Appreciate the advice and photos from everyone.


I don't have a socket wrench with the articulating head. Looks like I'm headed to the hardware store to get one! (1/4" mind you!).


I've been in my "shop" for 3 nights in a row. The wife has send some "not so subtle" hints my way that it's too much. So, I plan to take tonight off from the wrenches and grease. But I'll be on it in the morning!!! Will provide updates and further questions when I have them (certain to).


My appreciation for mechanics everywhere have been raised as a result of this experience... God bless you all! (Magicians or saints... or just better tools and skills). LOL

 

Congratulations, glad you got her back together and she's running good. Now go for a good drive.

Tom