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The Leveling Kit Thread

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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 08:19 PM
  #1221  
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Default 2015 F150 XLT 2WD (2.7L ecoboost)

I need some help! I have a 2015 2wd and I am putting a Mammoth brand 2.5” leveling kit on the front ($60). Would I be able to fit 35’s on my truck? I found a set of Raptor wheels and tires that I love and need to know what to do. Thanks!
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 09:03 PM
  #1222  
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Originally Posted by mjmauldin
I need some help! I have a 2015 2wd and I am putting a Mammoth brand 2.5” leveling kit on the front ($60). Would I be able to fit 35’s on my truck? I found a set of Raptor wheels and tires that I love and need to know what to do. Thanks!
I'm pretty sure 35" rubs on the crash bars, if not straight on, then definitely when turning.

​​​​​​So you're going to have to cut those or go with 33".

That's been my experience with my xlt 2wd.
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 09:37 PM
  #1223  
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I’m new to this kind of thing, what is involved in cutting/modifying the crash bars? The set is only $900 for wheels and tires (brand new). I’m trying to be cost effective as well (imagine that)
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 10:04 AM
  #1224  
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Originally Posted by mjmauldin
I’m new to this kind of thing, what is involved in cutting/modifying the crash bars? The set is only $900 for wheels and tires (brand new). I’m trying to be cost effective as well (imagine that)
Cutting/modifying the crash bars is not recommended, as they are a lot of the reason these trucks have such a good crash test rating. In saying that, some people will cut out their crash bars with a reciprocating saw, others will spread them using a porta-power, and a few (myself) swapped the front crash bars from side to side. If you look at the crash bars, the fronts are curved inward to make room to get to the fog lights. If you swap the fronts from side to side, that curved part faces the tire and gives you an extra 1/2" or so of clearance, while still allowing just enough clearance to get to the fog light as well. It's definitely the hardest of the three though.
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 12:51 PM
  #1225  
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Originally Posted by speeddemon0712
Cutting/modifying the crash bars is not recommended, as they are a lot of the reason these trucks have such a good crash test rating. In saying that, some people will cut out their crash bars with a reciprocating saw, others will spread them using a porta-power, and a few (myself) swapped the front crash bars from side to side. If you look at the crash bars, the fronts are curved inward to make room to get to the fog lights. If you swap the fronts from side to side, that curved part faces the tire and gives you an extra 1/2" or so of clearance, while still allowing just enough clearance to get to the fog light as well. It's definitely the hardest of the three though.
No expert on crash ratings but I do not think the 2wd versions have crash bars (none on my 2017 F150 2wd), yet 2wd modles need to be included in test ratings. They may not be that important to test ratings. KM
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 01:29 PM
  #1226  
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Originally Posted by 2017bluetruck
No expert on crash ratings but I do not think the 2wd versions have crash bars (none on my 2017 F150 2wd), yet 2wd modles need to be included in test ratings. They may not be that important to test ratings. KM
2015 regular and extended cabs did not have front crash bars, only the crew cabs did. Here are the small overlap test results...



When IIHS came out with this, Ford started putting the front crash bars in their extended cabs, though I think the regular cabs still don't have them. You have a much higher chance of getting your legs crushed in a similar crash without the crash bars. I'm not saying you can't get severely injured with them, just saying you're safer with them. You own your truck, you may do whatever you want with it. I'm just giving some people options and my opinion.
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 01:34 PM
  #1227  
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If you remove them and a passenger, or someone that borrows the truck gets injured....... could you be sued for modifying the truck ?
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 01:53 PM
  #1228  
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Originally Posted by Phil48315
If you remove them and a passenger, or someone that borrows the truck gets injured....... could you be sued for modifying the truck ?
I have no idea, but that reason is exactly why I put mine back in. The shop that installed my leveling kit cut them out (with my permission) to fit my wheel/tire set up with zero rubbing. When I realized what the crash bars do, I bought new ones and put them back. I rub a little at full lock in reverse, but it's better than what you mentioned, worse case scenario.
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 03:11 PM
  #1229  
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Originally Posted by 2017bluetruck
No expert on crash ratings but I do not think the 2wd versions have crash bars (none on my 2017 F150 2wd), yet 2wd modles need to be included in test ratings. They may not be that important to test ratings. KM
I think they still haven't put them on the regular cabs. Probably because they haven't caught hell for not having them on there like they did with the super cabs. NHTSA actually revised their testing procedures after the supercrew to supercab crash bar differences to where they test all variations of the vehicles. Or so I've heard. Regardless, it's not a difference of 4x4 vs 2x4, it's a cab difference issue.
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Old Jan 17, 2019 | 10:27 AM
  #1230  
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I have read numerous threads and never found a concrete answer (some say Yes and others No). My truck currently has 3 and 1/3" of rake. I would like to get this down to about an inch or so. I was hoping to at least maintain street ride quality of stock...if I could get a less body roll and a little better recovery, that would be optimal. I do tow some so I do want to maintain some rake. Truck will see some fields and rough roads to hunting camp, etc. (sometimes hooked to a trailer), but no major off-roading and it will be slow when it is off-road. I really like the idea of the Bilstein's but it would require the top notch for the height I need and some people label the top notch as "harsh". I realize that is subjective. My understanding of our suspension is basic so from the more knowledgeable folks than me (that isn't saying much), would there be any problem using a 1" spacer (assuming I can find one) and then setting the Billstein's for 1 to 1.5"? Has anyone tried this?
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