Yeah.... you're welcome there Buddy....

https://www.f150forum.com/f6/1997-f1...427401/index2/

 

Yea, not to get confused, a shock bushing bolt is a also called a shoulder bolt as it has many uses. Shock bushing bolts or studs are smooth shank with bushing tolerances. Custom in this case, you have a smooth bore through LCA in which 0 tolerance is choice without tab support. The bolt HAS TO fit as tight as possible through the LCA (no wobble action). That's the purpose of welding, keeps it completely rigid, secure and stationary. Hope you have a good set of drill bits. If so, you'll most likley have the ability to make that hole perfect and drive the 1/2" bolt in tight. Critical if your not welding to secure.

The bushing sleeve will receive the 1/2" shoulder perfectly, it was meant for it and sized accordingly, so make sure the shoulder continues through the shock sleeve. If the bolt you find had the proper shoulder length, but the threads go long, you can cut the threaded side off to suit proper length. Just chop straight off with a nut or two threaded on the bolt. This will correct the threads at the end of the bolt once remove. This gives you the ability to start the nut on the bolt once everything's in place.

Yea, Ford surprised me here as they didn't use the proper bolts, they use any old full thread 10 series they could find...very much half ***. But hey, it works, just not professional.

Another thing to keep in mind if not welding, I did this a long time ago, it was simple and quick, but I seem to recall the LCA bolt hole was not perfectly shaped through and through. But my recollection is vague on that. Welding took care of that. Casting holes aren't always perfectly true. Hopefully you can size the through hole so that the bolt is tight to maintain lateral. Without tab support, you want that as close to perfect as possible, so that your not totally reliant on torque alone. In essence you making more of a motorcycle shock post.

Without the tab, it won't be AS strong. However, it has proven to have the strength needed to handle MI's pot holes year after year., haven't bent or broken this set up in the past.

 

I better say this again, keeping that bolt tight in the LCA through hole is key. If you run a 1/2" drill bit through it, that might create too much slop. Reaming it a little is the ticket. Your not welding so, if you need a hammer to drive it through, that's A GOOD THING!

Other than that, grab some flat washers and a lock as well. I couldn't find the hardware in stainless, the zinc stuff held up fine. Whatever you do DO NOT use anti-seize. Not saying you would, just in case.

 

I guess I misunderstood your original explanation, Brew. Now it makes better sense to me.

Just kicked on the fireplace (gas) for the first time. It says it's 47 outside, but it sure doesn't feel like it.

Really hoping to get the CD4E taken care of this week. My Buddy has had to take on another job outside of his shop so he can get decent health insurance and also get some more income coming in.

 

50 here, that ends next week unfortunately, 20's and 30's. Gas logs are okay, but man, I miss the old fashion fireplaces, will have another some day, if I stick to my guns anyway lol.

Your trans shop buddy ? Yea, you do what you gotta do when business is slow. Hope you get that Escape figured out.

 

On the shock bolt fix. What might make it easier to envision. The through -hole on the LCA in elongated. It's not just hole through thin cast, more of a thick HD tube, which promotes support if manipulated correctly.

 

Yes, him. Just went back through his website and fixed some inconsistencies..... replaced the old sitemap too. Trying to get Google to recrawl the site now. I suppose I'll submit to Bing/Yahoo as well.

As far as gas logs are concerned, I feel you. In SL County and the bordering counties we have "burn days". We get so much smog from CA here that there are certain days that it is not permitted to burn wood - UNLESS it is your primary source of heat. You can burn gas or pellets all season long though, so this works out.

 

Hey, Brew. I really appreciate the thorough explanation and guidance. The holes (both sides) were already sized for a 1/2" bolt, although the OEM ones were smaller (?). The 1/2" bolts were a good fit but not "drive them in" tight. With the 1" thick boss and Grade 8 hardware, I think all will be good. I can always have someone put a couple welds on it later.

Getting the passenger shock in with those washers in place was a bit of a PITA. Don't know if I could've done it without the steering nuckle out of the way. (I wish I'd have installed one on the other side first instead of last!) I used 1/2" Grade 8 stuff on that side as well.

Thanks again.

 

No problem, yea, I'm not sure why Ford went with the bolt they did, never made sense. Glad you got it figured out. Now I think you know what I mean about keeping that bolt straight in there. If it angles, it's going to want to tug on the bushing on the side. Hopefully you won't experience that problem.

 

Hey, on another note, should one front wheel/axle, etc. turn much easier than the other? The passenger side spins almost like a 2WD, while the driver's side has a fair amount of drag.