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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 12:01 AM
  #6961  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Too late...your F'ed for sure.
Nope! It looks like this time "F" is for "Fine!"





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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 12:53 AM
  #6962  
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Looks perfect...even the gap ! Has to be an update if it's never been changed. Hell, new - the gap isn't that good. Going to have to check the 03 mounts...somethings changed lol. Kuz,currently F is for Freak lol.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 06:36 AM
  #6963  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Yup, I was thinking about that after I posted. I've seen them break there as well. Not as common, but I've seen them spider crack around the mount studs in the past. THAT is crossmember damage. Slipped my mind momentarily, but had a brief remembrance after I posted the cross doesn't break lol. Would of edited, but got tied up fixing a broken toilet seat.

Yea, welder didn't have much experience, or just did a quicky lol, looks like it held on the corners. Man, Ford should of never tied the exhaust Y to the mount. That's a hell of a lot friction/vibration to be sending to the engine when the mount goes AND when the damper goes out just above as well....it's like a chain reaction attacking the manifold studs in the end. Thing is , the mounts don't have much longevity left after 100,000 miles. Changed my first around 165,000 and there was nothing left of it..totally disintegrated. The silicone rubber like hanger damper above was cracked as well...not doing any good lol.

Anyway, the cross has to come off anyway. So, throw it up on bench and maybe weld that one side a little better. A cheap welder 120 v will do it. You'll just have to notch it and go over it twice. I'm talking the two cracks intersecting the stud cut out on that one side. That's all I would do IF the corners are secure.
Thank you so much for the advise. I have a harbor freight 120 that I have gotten proficient with after changing to some good wire and figuring out the speed. I'll have to give it a shot. I didn't have any plans this weekend anyways. Lol
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 06:42 AM
  #6964  
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Thank yall for the input guys. I'll check my local yard and see what I find but if not welding won't be that bad. I can't believe how bad this one is on my truck. Usually I'm way ahead of this kind of thing.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 07:20 AM
  #6965  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Y
Yea, welder didn't have much experience, or just did a quicky lol, looks like it held on the corners.
Looks like the latter.... inexperience. Didn't even take the time to break the piece of wire off, lol. I don't think this feller had a welding hammer either.

Originally Posted by jprevat


Looks a little boogered up to me.
.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 07:49 AM
  #6966  
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Yea, see that gap in Ohio's last pic ? Last pic. Pretty incredible, that's bushing material thickness which is what it's all about. That mount has 0 wear. First I've seen, other than new with that much material. Hell, the mount (the third one on this truck) with 60,000 miles on it is at 1/8". Might be the reason for the snapped the header bolt passenger side. I'm visiting the truck later today, survey and fix. It's at the kids place, didin't get that good of a look at it last time...too much corrosion back there. Pretty sure it's the bolt. Yea, this truck uses bolts vs studs. First time one of those went on this one...maybe it's just loose ? Haha, fat chance of that lol.

Make sure to check the damper plate for cracks...that's where they usually break. Like I said, crossmember breaks are rare. Should all look like Ohios first pic. The crosses I've seen broke look like they've been tightened with an impact...over torqued. Yea, want to torque those correctly...it's a bushing block. You'll see what I mean looking at the new one.

Last edited by Jbrew; Jun 29, 2018 at 07:55 AM.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 08:42 AM
  #6967  
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I'll hafta take a picture of mine. Seems pretty close to the same as Ohio's from my memory..... except mine has some ATF on it. Either the t-case or trans has a small leak.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 09:02 AM
  #6968  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
I'll hafta take a picture of mine. Seems pretty close to the same as Ohio's from my memory..... except mine has some ATF on it. Either the t-case or trans has a small leak.
The T-case was leaking on the 98. Turns out it was leaking from both fill and drain plugs. Fixed now, used loctite 565 or 567 on them. The blue or red will leak. Of course, that's stuff is not sealer...locker types. But yea, whether it's air compressor crap (has to seal at 200 psi) or threads that can't leak, that stuff has never let me down. Pricey though.Trans only leaks when the trucks sits for more than 2 months. The convertor leaks down enough by then to spew a little fluid from the dip-stick tube o-ring
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 09:26 AM
  #6969  
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Just eyeballing, that trans mount gap on mine looks to be about 3/16". I probably should've taken an actual measurement for tracking/reference. Maybe I will.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 09:35 AM
  #6970  
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Mine doesn't reach the ground.... but just enough to keep it wet. I thought maybe I had it in some of the pics I took when I changed the fluid a couple weeks ago, but it didn't make any cameo appearance in any of the pics, lol.

Just had a damn UPS take a crap at work... interwebs went down and everyone went bonkers, lol. I gotta get some batteries and a fan for this thing before I can take off today, which I was aiming at leaving early... Batteries Plus doesn't open for 30 minutes though.

Think they are dead? Lol....



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