Ill take a picture of the cross member here in a minute and post it up so yall can guide me on where to go with it.

 

I was talking about the selectable locker in the 2011+ trucks. I feel like that would be a fair option if I ever lost a seal and ate another axle shaft. Probably just a pipe dream though. I need to address some paint chips on my roof too.

 

Ah, I see. Yea, I ll probably have to go through all the bearings, re-shim back lash. That's the part I haven't done yet. As long as I don't need a ton of special tools for that job....Never thought I'd say this, I have too many tools lol. It may be worth investing in a newer set up. Not sure yet, haven't put in much research time..but it will be either or.

Paint chips ? Yea, I recall those days...it's gone much beyond a paint chip fixes unfortunately. For the 98 anyway lol.

 

It's easy, think I explained the procedure in your thread. Didn't I?

 

Looks a little boogered up to me.


Trans mount to crossmember space.
Here is what mine looks like.

 

Brew, Apparently I should have looked harder for tree sap on my roof. Its little spots for right now and if I don't get them perfect no one will know.

You explained it very well in my thread. I have just been dragging my heels.

After watching that video new clutch packs would be a lot easier by the looks of things. No realigning or shimming required.

 

FWIW, I've been told the 9.75 is a different procedure and not as simple.

 

I had a set for the 9.75 that I sold on Ebay. They were quite a bit bigger than the 8.8's are.

 

Hmmm more research is in order then.

 

Yup, I was thinking about that after I posted. I've seen them break there as well. Not as common, but I've seen them spider crack around the mount studs in the past. THAT is crossmember damage. Slipped my mind momentarily, but had a brief remembrance after I posted the cross doesn't break lol. Would of edited, but got tied up fixing a broken toilet seat.

Yea, welder didn't have much experience, or just did a quicky lol, looks like it held on the corners. Man, Ford should of never tied the exhaust Y to the mount. That's a hell of a lot friction/vibration to be sending to the engine when the mount goes AND when the damper goes out just above as well....it's like a chain reaction attacking the manifold studs in the end. Thing is , the mounts don't have much longevity left after 100,000 miles. Changed my first around 165,000 and there was nothing left of it..totally disintegrated. The silicone rubber like hanger damper above was cracked as well...not doing any good lol.

Anyway, the cross has to come off anyway. So, throw it up on bench and maybe weld that one side a little better. A cheap welder 120 v will do it. You'll just have to notch it and go over it twice. I'm talking the two cracks intersecting the stud cut out on that one side. That's all I would do IF the corners are secure.