While it has been pointed out to me that this is a truck site (thanks JBrew), I just wanted to make a side note. On Saturday I did the brakes on the little 'Yota. I used Raybestos rotors, drums, and wheel cylinders. Then I used Centric semi-metallic pads and shoes. I must say that it stops quite nicely now. I was very surprised to see "Toyota" stamped on the pads. I asked my sister if she had taken it to the dealer to have the brakes done last time, and she told me that it had never had the brakes done.... LOL. So, the original brakes lasted around 130,000 miles. There was still a lot of pad left... but it was starting to shake a bit.

Anyway, I think I might be using Centric pads on the F150 now. They are great pads.

 

Is centric the brand of the pad?

 

Yea, waiting for you to correct me on that, but that hasn't come yet, and it's been awhile. The words "So What" would of been sufficient lol.

 

The average high (in the past 30 years) is 61* , we are barely getting above 40 today. This weekend , suppose to be in the 50's tho, I can hack that I guess...head out to the kids house next weekend to work on the truck. I'll post the progress....since this is a truck site.

BTW- Guess it's my turn to mess up the back...lower back pull. All I did is pick my keys up from the ground...wrenched it...damn it all. Sucks, they take so danm long to heal!

 

Finally got to tinker with the Highboy again. Damn truck dies as soon as I let off the gas. I'm assuming the carb needs to be tweaked as I rebuilt it and set the needs back to factory specs. Would be a lot easier if I had ever worked on a carbed vehicle before lol

 

What carb are you using? 2v or 4v? If it's the 2100/2150 (Autolite oem), check the float level and set the front air valves 1.5 turns to start and work from there with your vacuum gauge. If it's a Holley or whatever, it depends on the carb.

Is the PCV set up correct and did you use the correct base gasket on the manifold. The old FE's are notorious for having multiple base configs for the bottom gasket, if it's plated. If you can post a pic of the set up, maybe I can help. I like those old heavy boat anchors to work on. I just hate lifting up a head. or the damn Intake Manifold. lol

 

2v Motorcraft 2100. I double checked my float level (it should be good unless i screwed that up lol). I think that is how i set the air valves to begin with, but it has been a minute. PCV goes from valve cover to back of carb. 2 thoughts:

1. Yeah I actually was concerned about the bottom gasket cz it was not centered on my intake. The two holes sit farther back on the gasket and hang over the holes in the intake manifold. Ive bought two gaskets for that truck from different sites and both showed up like that.... i also noticed the gasket seems to be getting "wet from gas" and its soaking the gasket even outside of the carb (circled in red)
2. Should I adjust the choke thermostat first? Thats the only thing I put back on without any "recommended setting" (Circled in green).

Ill reset the valves to 1.5 turns just to be sure they are on that setting.

Edit** I can try and start the truck again to show the gasket getting wet if you need

 

These are the correct gaskets for 74 up 360 2v. 60205 and 60716 felpro's. I still have a pair of those in my top box for my buddy's trucks. Make sure that as long as you have a thermactor style intake (heat hole on the right side) these are correct.

 

Yeah I have the one with the heat hole. Give me a few minutes, ill take the carb off and show how much its not lined up

and either you remembered or guess with the carb but yeah i have a 74 f250 360 2v

 

I know these FE's fairly well. I ran them since my 62 Galaxie with 352. My next was a 289 HIPo 63 1/2 Fairlane, and from there on, it was all big blocks until the Clevelands.