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Old Dec 5, 2017 | 09:43 AM
  #4801  
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[quote=white89gt]Going to get pic heavy here for a minute.... LOL. This is the Jeep. It had a 4.0 stroked to a 4.6 - and man-o-man did it have some *****. I took it for a ride with these tires (thinking they are 38's, but I'll have to ask him again) and it flat out lit them up when I gunned it. It had Eaton front and rear electric lockers. As you can see, the front end was built too. It had sliders, sub frame connectors, full cage....

That jeep looks insane, I would love to have a set of built Dana 60s on my truck with 37s
Old Dec 5, 2017 | 10:01 AM
  #4802  
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Yeah.... 37's - LOL, that's what they are... not 38's. They are BFG Mud Terrains. Damn good tires.

Been a rough morning, lol.
Old Dec 5, 2017 | 12:21 PM
  #4803  
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Originally Posted by DrillRig52
Ya only about 10 bucks. Pretty easy to change it looks like? Just unbolt replace and bolt back up right? Probably have to use a jack to lift the trans a little.

And yes need a real locker for sure. There were a few climbs I couldn’t make because of that worn lsd. Granted they were 3 times taller than that one lol.
Yea, your suppose to support it directly under the engine oil pan, but you must have a block that spans all 4 corners of the pan (lower pan sump area). Otherwise you can crush the pan and the pick-up tube is right there, so you don't want to bend the pan even a little....you won't if you block it correctly. I do that and also remove a guard and stick a floor jack under the back of the trans. I don't think you need a floorjack in back though, it's a PITA to position one back there. I did that when installing headers in order to shift the trans over from side to side. If you have a service manual, just look up the install to confirm my directions, but that's how you do it.

Make sure the trans gets back in alignment (perfectly centered) before torquing back down. The trans and transfer case can pivot about 15/20* from left to right, perhaps more because of the motor mounts that are used on these trucks. Has to be straight otherwise you can screw up your clutch pacs, cause clunking in shaft (stop and go) or blow the seals within the first 500 miles.

It's easy, just a bunch of bolts on each side of the frame rail to remove. That's a little time consuming.

Last edited by Jbrew; Dec 5, 2017 at 12:31 PM.
Old Dec 5, 2017 | 01:21 PM
  #4804  
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DrillRig
I have experienced the same failure of the XL34-5059-DA cross members on two of our trucks the last 2 years. A 02 Scab 4WD 5.4L and 03 Scab 4WD 5.4L. The 02 was at 214k miles and the 03 at 195K miles. Both with 4r70W.
I have found F65A-5059-CG cross members in excellent shape at different local salvage yards that are a direct replacement. They have additional steel gussets that look like a mini skid plate at the horizontal to vertical transition juncture. The first F65A c member was found in the bone yard orphaned on the ground and the second was pulled off a 99 F150 with rear drum brakes. New transmission mounts were installed with the F65A c members.
I did learn the 4R100 cross members with not work as the frame mounting pattern is differnt
My observation is the 97/98 F150 4WDs with 4r70W have these F65A c members and maybe early 99s. Maybe AK, and White can confirm what's on their vehicles.
Old Dec 5, 2017 | 04:59 PM
  #4805  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Yea, your suppose to support it directly under the engine oil pan, but you must have a block that spans all 4 corners of the pan (lower pan sump area). Otherwise you can crush the pan and the pick-up tube is right there, so you don't want to bend the pan even a little....you won't if you block it correctly. I do that and also remove a guard and stick a floor jack under the back of the trans. I don't think you need a floorjack in back though, it's a PITA to position one back there. I did that when installing headers in order to shift the trans over from side to side. If you have a service manual, just look up the install to confirm my directions, but that's how you do it.

Make sure the trans gets back in alignment (perfectly centered) before torquing back down. The trans and transfer case can pivot about 15/20* from left to right, perhaps more because of the motor mounts that are used on these trucks. Has to be straight otherwise you can screw up your clutch pacs, cause clunking in shaft (stop and go) or blow the seals within the first 500 miles.

It's easy, just a bunch of bolts on each side of the frame rail to remove. That's a little time consuming.
Thank you for the pro tips as always bud!
Old Dec 5, 2017 | 05:00 PM
  #4806  
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Originally Posted by powenz
DrillRig
I have experienced the same failure of the XL34-5059-DA cross members on two of our trucks the last 2 years. A 02 Scab 4WD 5.4L and 03 Scab 4WD 5.4L. The 02 was at 214k miles and the 03 at 195K miles. Both with 4r70W.
I have found F65A-5059-CG cross members in excellent shape at different local salvage yards that are a direct replacement. They have additional steel gussets that look like a mini skid plate at the horizontal to vertical transition juncture. The first F65A c member was found in the bone yard orphaned on the ground and the second was pulled off a 99 F150 with rear drum brakes. New transmission mounts were installed with the F65A c members.
I did learn the 4R100 cross members with not work as the frame mounting pattern is differnt
My observation is the 97/98 F150 4WDs with 4r70W have these F65A c members and maybe early 99s. Maybe AK, and White can confirm what's on their vehicles.
That’s good to know, I need all the strength under there I can get! Thank you!
Old Dec 5, 2017 | 08:47 PM
  #4807  
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Guess he wants to be in Alaska? We have gale force wind warning till Thursday and forecasting anywhere from 6-24â€
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Old Dec 5, 2017 | 08:53 PM
  #4808  
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Originally Posted by fordguy2100
Guess he wants to be in Alaska? We have gale force wind warning till Thursday and forecasting anywhere from 6-24â€
It's kicken here (MI) pretty good as well. They say it's 20 mph winds, but it's gotta be more than that at times.
Old Dec 6, 2017 | 12:01 AM
  #4809  
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Let me know if you need a pic, Drill.
Old Dec 6, 2017 | 12:58 AM
  #4810  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Let me know if you need a pic, Drill.
If you can get me a pic that would be much appreciated, I’m probably going to hit the yards on Friday to see what I can find. That mount and crossmember would explain the hard downshift from 4-3 that I’ve had for a while. Can’t believe I didn’t find that sooner. I grease the front end and do a thorough inspection every 5k.



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