If you put the key in the ignition but don't turn it and open the door does the chime work?

 

Your right, - you should have problems cranking as well, I would think anyway. If your not having any problems there, I wouldn't suspect right away. Even though you had an ignition switch DTC. I agree.

How has dash/cluster light illumation been acting ?

 

B1532 is about putting the key in. Does not effect cranking.

""Ford B1532: When the key is inserted into the ignition lock cylinder, the key-in-ignition switch closes and supplies voltage to the SJB. The SJB monitors the door ajar input from the LH front door and the key-in-ignition switch status. When the key is inserted into the ignition lock cylinder and the LH front door is open or ajar, the SJB sends the IC a chime request message to sound the key-in-ignition warning chime. The headlamps on warning chime sound when the driver door is opened with the ignition switch in the OFF position, the key is not in the ignition lock cylinder, and the headlamp switch is in the PARK or HEADLAMP ON position.""

 

So this is fun.... reset codes and the B1428 code has gone away.
Then I tried Jbrew suggestion and hooked up the jumper cable from (-) on battery to fire wall... no change
Then tried from (-) to frame. No change in symptoms however the B1318 went away... removed the jumper cable and it came back.
So it looks like the B1318 is in regards to my battery to frame ground.
With that said, truck still wouldnt start. So im down to
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
B1352 Ignition key in circuit fault
P0500 VSS sensor circuit fault

All fuses are in good shape. Grounds behind drivers kick panel are in good shape, all relays are working (swapped with workin relays out of the wifes escape). So for the P0232 its looking like maybe a fuel pump? The P0500 the connector was in good shape, no corrosion so bad wire or bad sensor? The B1352 I have no clue... so 3 different issues all pop up at the same time or still some underlying issue connecting all three? Like another bad ground or wire somewhere?

 

That fuel pump code can be indicative of a bad ground as well

 

Not sure then, - unless you have harness damage somewhere.

Might check the fuel pressure, see what kind of cranking pressure you have.

Also, an open EGR valve can most definitely make it run that way. However, you don't have the codes for it, - you have "b" codes BCM. Different ball game so to speak.

 

The 1428 is gone as well. Huh, well, that's the one I was focusing on the most I guess.

Well yea, I'd check FP, cranking pressure. See if your getting anything.

 

Btw, I don't know if 1428 is safety belt lamp in these trucks. It was crank/run module when I looked it up. So, might want to confirm that if it comes back up.

It makes sense though, since the latch system trigger is bolted to the body and frame. I may have got that code wrong.

If that's the case, you may have had "B" codes/(bad body grounds) for awhile now, since you proved some went out once providing a better ground. That's what happened correct ?

So yea, like white said, fuel pump ground perhaps.

Also could be a bad fuel pump.

 

No because I disabled that years ago lol.

dash lights havent had any issues, my odo has been going in and out again. (i did the solder fix a few years back and mustve not done it well enough)
I saw the other 1428 code when i googled everything but FORScan Lite is what im using and it says the code and the name. It gave me the code and told me "B1428 Safety Belt Lamp Circuit Failure"
Yes I added the better ground and the B1318 went away. And yes not sure when B1428 went away but its no longer there either. This is being quite the oddity which also reaffirms its probably something electrical and thats why its being screwy.

I will check on the fuel pump ground and wiring and FP too.

 

I’m willing to bet this is all coming from one source. One issue is screwing with all of it. Now we determine what all of these have in common. Replaced battery, you said you checked the major grounds. As long as you have checked the kickpanel grounds, which are responsible for a lot of ignition and instrument cluster grounds, then I still believe it is the ignition switch. A worn out ignition switch could have worn out to the point that the they barely make contact. Making a lot more problems come from one.
how many miles does your Ignition switch have on it?