Thinking
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
I'm not an AC tech but I've done some factory AC work, but am certainly not certified in that area. Changing out known bad parts on a work order is one thing, repairing a faulty unknown, is another. Charging the system and testing for leaks, piece of cake. I never had to chance to go to the tech school on AC. I went into parts/warranty instead, and gave up the line tech position. Best personal move I ever did.
Don't overlook the orifice, as it is something that needs cleaned or replaced for sure when doing a change and charge. Damn things come out black as night, and full of contaminants. Don't forget to flush the entire system to get rid of anything that might contaminate the new parts.
I know we have guys on here that are AC guru's. I saw some of the stuff they posted, and they seemed to be on top of it quite well.
http://www.autoacsystems.com/_faqs/d...ompressor.html
Don't overlook the orifice, as it is something that needs cleaned or replaced for sure when doing a change and charge. Damn things come out black as night, and full of contaminants. Don't forget to flush the entire system to get rid of anything that might contaminate the new parts.
I know we have guys on here that are AC guru's. I saw some of the stuff they posted, and they seemed to be on top of it quite well.
http://www.autoacsystems.com/_faqs/d...ompressor.html
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,544
Likes: 2,552
From: Alaska
That link is perfect, just started reading through it and it's answering every question plaguing my mind. Clearing things right up. Goes to show, you can search for info all night and not find definitive answers, while another can search for what your looking for and find it in seconds. I consider myself handy at that, not this time. This link is the crash course I was searching for. Thanks AK.
Glad I could help, after being so **** on your original questions.
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
Yea, I save links like that in a Truck folder on the bookmarks toolbar. Never having to screw around with air system on this truck yet, so nothing on air or any part of that system yet. Learn as you go type thing. Thanks for converting to PDF. 
Also very interested in your engine install. I'm sure I'll be in the need sometime soon. I flushed the coolant recently and I'm going to do it again. The new coolant shows contamination, rust already. Apparently I didn't flush well enough following normal procedures. I'm going to do it again. Yea it's really getting caked up inside I expect. This engine has gone far beyond what I expected, very fortunate to have one go this distance. I finally just caught it using some oil between changes having to add one full court at 2500 miles. First time it's been down on oil between changes. Anyway, it's starting to show it's age lol. Definitely can't complain.
Also very interested in your engine install. I'm sure I'll be in the need sometime soon. I flushed the coolant recently and I'm going to do it again. The new coolant shows contamination, rust already. Apparently I didn't flush well enough following normal procedures. I'm going to do it again. Yea it's really getting caked up inside I expect. This engine has gone far beyond what I expected, very fortunate to have one go this distance. I finally just caught it using some oil between changes having to add one full court at 2500 miles. First time it's been down on oil between changes. Anyway, it's starting to show it's age lol. Definitely can't complain.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 45
Update on the bed: The paint isn't as nice as I thought it was, but the thing is mint. No rust, no dents, no dings. Paint is alright except for some scuffs and a few scratches. Little touch up and a buff and I'll have a mint bed and tailgate for $300
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 45
Originally Posted by ZebraFord
Update on the bed: The paint isn't as nice as I thought it was, but the thing is mint. No rust, no dents, no dings. Paint is alright except for some scuffs and a few scratches. Little touch up and a buff and I'll have a mint bed and tailgate for $300
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 8,544
Likes: 2,552
From: Alaska
Last night I went out on the Hollander locator and was looking for 2004 and up 2v heads, just for S&G's. You'd be surprised how many E vans that have 5.4 in them. I found over 200 heads, made after the thread change. They were anywhere from 100 to 250. A couple were higher than hell. Some of the lower priced ones were the ones with the least mileage. One set was 200 per side, with, get this, 13k miles on them. 2007 E series van 2v.
Nice looking bed Zebra. It looks like it was worth the trip. Now comes the fun part. REassembly. lol
Nice looking bed Zebra. It looks like it was worth the trip. Now comes the fun part. REassembly. lol
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 45
Originally Posted by akdoggie
Last night I went out on the Hollander locator and was looking for 2004 and up 2v heads, just for S&G's. You'd be surprised how many E vans that have 5.4 in them. I found over 200 heads, made after the thread change. They were anywhere from 100 to 250. A couple were higher than hell. Some of the lower priced ones were the ones with the least mileage. One set was 200 per side, with, get this, 13k miles on them. 2007 E series van 2v.
Nice looking bed Zebra. It looks like it was worth the trip. Now comes the fun part. REassembly. lol
Nice looking bed Zebra. It looks like it was worth the trip. Now comes the fun part. REassembly. lol
98 F150 5.4L E40D/4R100
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28,520
Likes: 7,632
From: MI
Anyway, I wouldn't Pore 15 body metal. Do what you thinks best always. But the only way to protect body metal is with Epoxy Primer. If applied correctly (prepped right) it laugh's at salt and it will out live you. It's the best stuff second to none.
If you have to use rattle cans, use the two part. Depress a little **** on the bottom of the and it releases harder just before you shoot. It's the best you can do if rattle canning. Rattle cans for the birds though. The difference in atomizing and cure between using turbine or compressed air through a gun vs RC is dark dark night and the brightest part of the day. Just a cheap gun with good tips is all you need.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 45
Originally Posted by Jbrew
Very nice, I thought it was that ugly one that was posted earlier lol. For that price and color, I would stop work on mine. Well maybe. It's not the cost or know how fixing the rusty stuff right, it's the time it takes to prep for each process. If you don't take that time it's useless and won't last.
Anyway, I wouldn't Pore 15 body metal. Do what you thinks best always. But the only way to protect body metal is with Epoxy Primer. If applied correctly (prepped right) it laugh's at salt and it will out live you. It's the best stuff second to none.
If you have to use rattle cans, use the two part. Depress a little **** on the bottom of the and it releases harder just before you shoot. It's the best you can do if rattle canning. Rattle cans for the birds though. The difference in atomizing and cure between using turbine or compressed air through a gun vs RC is dark dark night and the brightest part of the day. Just a cheap gun with good tips is all you need.
Anyway, I wouldn't Pore 15 body metal. Do what you thinks best always. But the only way to protect body metal is with Epoxy Primer. If applied correctly (prepped right) it laugh's at salt and it will out live you. It's the best stuff second to none.
If you have to use rattle cans, use the two part. Depress a little **** on the bottom of the and it releases harder just before you shoot. It's the best you can do if rattle canning. Rattle cans for the birds though. The difference in atomizing and cure between using turbine or compressed air through a gun vs RC is dark dark night and the brightest part of the day. Just a cheap gun with good tips is all you need.