I was sitting talking to friends last night, throwing around ideas. When it got to Red, I mentioned that the exhaust studs and rear main seal are needing attention. and while we were discussing it, it came to me. Replace the motor and be done with it. Nah, too expensive.

So this morning I called O'Reilly's and Autozone to get pricing. Both use the same brand rebuilts and both have a second brand (different). Both came to around 3100 plus 150 shipping and 560 core. Most shops want 2200-2500 to swap it out. That is freakin' crazy. 5600 to do and an engine and R&R.

SO, I got creative. I got ahold of my parts buddy at the local dealer, He said their engine was 3200 no frt and 850 core. Core doesn't matter cause that is refundable. Anyways, long story made short, I got the Ford engine thru my old RV license. I paid 2573 delivered for it. My son's buddy's garage is putting it in for 1500 flat rate. That's 4073 installed. I can do that, but 5600? No freakin' way. Now I don't have to tune the truck, because he'll just put in the new parts, rather than the old ones. Stroke.

Since I'm going to be in Fairbanks for the summer, I won't have to dip into my money. I'll just use my salvage yard pay to pay for it. It will be ready when I get back for a full winter of driving.

 

That is AWESOME, AK, I would much rather have a Ford reman. Mine is a Ford reman, and it's been a solid motor.



Speaking of saving money.... are any of you in construction? I want to do this patio cover on the back of the hose over the cement pad. It is 32' X 12' in size. If it were just a straight shot all the way across, I'd do it myself no problem..... But the damn bay window has my chicken s4!t. Am I overthinking this, and it's pretty straightforward? Or should I pay 4 grand?

 

^^^^^ This is what I want to do... sorry for the not-so-precise pic, but you get the gist.

 

Whitey, for 4000 wouldn't a sunsetter retractable be a better idea? 32x16 is done in 2 sections I believe, but that might just be here, due to the cost of freight. It might be something to look into.

As far as Red, I started pulling parts out of the closet to put together for my son to take over with him when he drops Red off for me. I found new MC coils, pliugs, thermostat, PCV, waterpump, hoses and Dayco belt. I am going to also going to put on the reman alt I have. Might as well put on all the new stuff. I doesn't do good sitting on the shelf, lol. Wow. Didn't realize I had so many oem parts, new.

 

Actually, if it were me anyway, I would most likley stick build one. But that's because I wouldn't want it retractable.....not there anyway. That said, I could use wood and shingle which looks much better, -professional. No worries on it blowing away. OH, and much cheaper this way. Almost forgot lol.

So , I take it you want retractable ?

For your question, what's the roof pitch on the bump-out ? Same as the house 4/12 ?

 

No, not retractable. I want a metal awning. Wood doesn't last nearly as long here.

I had a retractable Sunsetter on the old house. I couldn't ever put the damn thing out because the slightest breeze wanted to rip it off the house.

One of my largest reasons for doing it is to keep snow off the back patio.

 

I was thinking the house was a 6/12, Brew. I want it to be just a little less pitch than the house so I wind up at 8 feet high where the posts/beam will go.

Guess I will hafta measure the pitch on it.

 

The termites must be huge in SLC :EEK:

Wood would beat my lifespan, that's good enough for me lol.

Metal roofing is great and attractive, using that on my cabin, expensive as hell though, like doubled and then some.

Seriously white, you hate shoveling THAT much? I think your back in coning yuh . lol.

 

Right, you can adjust the pitch/slope to what ever you desire. The bump out bay looked diff from your pick. Yea the pitch isn't going to affect looks that much, unless you go to extremes lol. Looks like you can reduce slope quite a bit. AFAIK, I haven't heard of set code. However, home owner associations can be very critical about the way you you build it, your own property. City limit can have ordinances as well. For the most part, it detours crack head builders. That said, some of those community limit guides-lines are asinine. Hope you don't have deal with that jerking around from folks around you or pulling permits.

 

LOL... Wood ages too fast in the weather here. It's not the shoveling I am getting away from, although that is a perk. I am trying to get the house to drain onto the grass. That black pipe irritates the hell out of me. We had an issue with leaves clogging the drain spout too, and it was coming in the house through the sliding door. I want to remove the gutters and butt the awning up to that.

No HOA here, thank heavens. The city won't say a thing unless someone turns you in saying there's a violation. Usually they won't even investigate unless you are closer than 8 feet from the property line.... and draining onto your neighbors property.