Ok so now the question is, do I change it all phasers, chains,guides etc
I also think some of the broken parts are in the oil pan, do I have to remove pan, it's not easy to remove, let me know. Thx

 

The phasers do not cause the timing components to grenade, it is the grenading of the timing components and subsequent lack of oil pressure that harms the phasers/top end components... an accumulation of poorly designed composite, non-ratcheting tensioners that blow out seals and lose oil pressure, compounded by a aluminum backed oil pump that blows out pressure at higher rev's...

 

Yes, remove the pan and clean the pan and pickup, otherwise the pieces will continue to block the oil flow. You should change it all, including a new oil pump with a steel back and also steel, ratcheting tensioners...

 

Also, you should stop using those Fram oil filters. The Motorcraft filter has the best anti-drainback valve, which ensures more start up oil flow...

 

What EBC says is mostly fact if you try to stay VCT. Drain your pan an flush it out from the front with a sprayer. No spark please. The oil thing changes with Livernois delete of the VCT system. A aftermarket oil pump is a good idea. U are next to it now an quick to replace. Take your phasors apart. You probably have a broken spring. Buying parts can wait a bit to see what your oil pump condition is. Crankshaft damage can't be an in chassis fix. If the oil pump is in a bad way so goes in a reman most likely. If you decide to pull the pan then you need to inspect your main bearings and rod bearings and check clearances. If there loose than once again a reman is a good call. You would be paying a Ford tech to do what you have done these past couple of days. Once those pieces went into the pan small grit becomes an abrasive problem many times. Check your crank back and forth clearance with a dial indicator. A broken thrust bearing will be found if it is loose. U know whats what now.

 

Yes I found that out.

 

It all looks tight, what after market oil pump works the best, as the parts all have to be ordered on eBay or Amazon

 

https://www.amazon.com/Melling-M360-...=m-360+melling
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5SYWRW...I3VEON6UHU5UUP

 

@Darren123


What @EBC-150 says is ABSOLUTELY fact, not "mostly fact if you try to stay VCT" as @papa tiger submits. I hope you don't fall for the myth that "The oil thing changes with Livernois delete of the VCT system". @EBC-150 is right on that issue too. The Livernois system does _nothing_ that can mechanically or hydraulically result in improved long term reliability. It will stop / eliminate / forever prevent phaser 'noise' that can result from sagging oil pressure or weak phaser return spring or any symptoms that result from a loss of Bank 2 Bank cam sync (VCT solenoids etc.). But that comes with greater detriment than most realize.


I have monitored, logged, graphed and extensively studied the various sensors and OBDII PIDs associated with the VCT system. I can attest that the Cams are "RETARDED" to a varying degree a VERY HIGH percentage of the time during normal driving conditions. To put "VERY HIGH" into perspective - I will say it is around 85% to 95%. And the PCM varies the cam retard degrees "constantly" - just like it does timing advance - as throttle position or load conditions change. It is absolutely a shame to "LOCK" them at full advance and defeat the engines ability to perform that operational 'fine tuning'.


JMO.


Good luck. Hope yours turns out as successfully as mine did - with the good advice from members here.

 

As I said earlier you have a greater chance of long term fix with Livernois. I never said don't do vct. You simply have a fair chance of failure in the long run say 50,000 miles by doing vct. Of course you won't have the cams moving all over the place that is what the Livernois tune takes care of. Every tech knows the advantage of vct. I am talking about a broken motor and your best investment to it in my opinion. I will try to help either way you go. You are dealing with the main problem that wrecks these modular engines. Many owners only find disatisfaction now with a motor that can't be fixed and has to be replaced. Like one guy said here he would order a long block. Lifting the body is the best way to go. You see the mesd in the front of the motor. You can spend a lot now and not fix it. I reached this conclusion with the picture. IMHO. Mostly all small overhead cam motorcycle motors came to this same ending, broken cam guide or pin messing it up. They didn't have vct. Many were fixed but the motor pulled and everything but the crankcase pulled apart. That was them, yours is even worse. Poor oil pressure and broken parts mess up vct motors very bad.