That will certainly give you more psi. Go with "don't remove a lot of material" from those caps. If you have good main and rod bearings it will help a whole lot up there too. I remember a talk with a guy on ford forum.net 3 or 4 years ago who decided to machine shop his block an rebuild it himself. If you have mains out .0035 - .005" things arent so good cause the rods will be out also. The main load wear is in the cap while the rods is in the rod not the cap and that means out of round cranks "mic" the rod journals, needing a grind.

 

Thanks, well I know they look bad but non catch my nail they are pretty rounded, except the far back on passenger side is tad worse, the front cap is like that on drivers side and clear on pass side. I will look at that front cap better tomorrow but I think it is the way I took the pic. So on the cam it also looks the same, can I us Emory on cam also, and wet or dry. Sorry but I don't know what part you are talking about when you say lash adjuster wells, but will look it up.
So what should I do or look for with the other parts on top of heads, or just wipe them up and use air blow springs?
On code reader it mentioned retarded.
What are the parts you said you went new with, anything else I should check out. Thanks guys and first time into any engine this for so forgive me if I double check on what your saying, so now I can turn the crank and shouldn't affect anything, now I should be able to set the timing properly. It takes me about a week to get parts I order online, or go to dealer and pay 3 times the money, thx

 

Here is a better pic

 

If your rear main cap bearing is bad this will go south quickly with the crank and oil pressure. The cam journals look as if oil pressure was low but they arent destroyed.

 

It's not destroyed just worst then all others, so I looked up lash adjusters and will take them all out tomorrow and see if any are garbage. Or should I just replace them all and what are a good brand or product number to get, I will call dealer Monday and get price, thx

 

@Darren123
That's a better picture in post $143. That looks as good as many of mine did. Looks like factory might have over torqued the bolts on that one might have got a little hot sometime. But I'm going to commit that if none are worse than that, I'd just Luberplate 'um up good and go back together with 'um. (That little oil passageway I was talking about (extreme lower left of Pic @ 143) is clear on yours.
Sounds like your rollers are OK if no wiggle or slack in rollers, roll real smooth and roller surface is smooth.


IDK how to suggest checking those lifters. You can't push the plunger down with your thumb because they just do what they are supposed to do and won't compress. You could put them in a vice and might not be able to. ?? If you turn them upside down and 'giggle' the little plunger you can sorta 'milk' them like a heifer cow and get most of the oil out of them. Then the plunger will move about 1/8 - 3/16 inch. I think that's about ALL they are supposed to move anyway. I did have some that the plunger didn't go up and down smoothly after they were milked. But I just replaced the whole lot - w/ OEM.


Remember: With the Phasers out of the way - remove the VCT valve Bodies and clean all passageways inside them real well. They also have a small screen (like those in the VCT Solenoid) underneath a Hex head PLUG. Make sure EVERYTHING is very clean.


Keep up the good work!

 

Ok I will pull the plungers out today and look, I probably will buy at dealer so I don't have to wait a week if I need some or all. The one question I have about is the vct valve body taking it out, that is the section that vct selenoid sits in, didn't know that can come out, as I'm not at the truck to look. Also what oil should I use to assemble the cams back in, should I get assembly oil or what.
Where is a good place to watch the re-assembly of cams,rollers,etc as it is hard to understand the **** in the book I have, lol
My vct solenoid are new a few months back also but will clean,
So when I start I will make sure that #1 is at TDC which I have it there now. Thx

 

Cam break in lube is always a good decision especially if some new parts. Synthetic motor oil is also great.

 

How can you tell if plungers are good or not. Thx

 

They will be stuck usually an if you take it apart it shows wear.