Yes I was not able to download file but it will let me on phone bUT omg to small to read. Only other computer is a desk top at office. I will do what you say you did. I also just broke a bolt putting oil pan back in rrrr but was prob the easiest one and use vise grips to continue through. Thx for all the help at least I can put some more stuff together while I wait to go dealer in am. Hope you all had a great week end and not sitting on here helping us lol
Back to work.....

 

Some just snap them in with a good screw driver pulling them into place one cylinder at a time on low spot of lobes. Make sure it is on the valve and just pop / pull / pry with smooth side af screw driver againse cam an thin piece of soft material to protect lobe & pry it over the valve lash adjuster. Thin piece of copper will work to protect lobe. Feeler gauge will also work. http://www.etoolcart.com/manual/3v.pdf

 

Above ^^^ 182 ^^^

 

Thanks gor that info as I took screen shots of it all, no internet at shop. I was looking at it and have watch a video and also seen on another place to torque at 96 in lbs, so this says 89 in lbs. I also have seen people show the double like on bottom gear lol

 

Just deal with your new timing chains. Dont worry about all the other sets guys have done. You have worked on bike motors you will be ok with aluminum. Know that u can do this ! Just go easy with high temp sealer.

 

I carefully watched rollers and evenly tightened cam bolts in sequence until I put torque wrench on them . Basically from center out a little at a time . I had marked cam shaft position so I knew how to place it , I had not moved crank it was still in position for timing alignment .
I hand synthetic oiled each part as I set it in place but some always gets on manifold so she will smoke as the manifold heats up.
Depending on your miles I can't see reusing lash adjusters or rollers , these parts take a beating . My set from oem select was $265 all new rollers and lash adjusters . That expensive tool to remove/ install rollers is a waste in this tight area.
All other cam parts go back exactly like they came out and hand oiled . Mine were marked nicely from the factory . I handled them very carefully .
Note most people change out oil after rebuild fairly quickly with 5w-30 to get assembly dirt out of there. At my place sand is always blowing around .As I am old and slow I had her open for two weeks .

 

^^^ Very well said.


Another thing I learned following this thread (I'm old and slow too - but never to old to learn). In an earlier post

I knew it is very easy to pop rollers in/out when on a low spot of the lobe. Just never thought how easy it would be to rotate the engine to place other valves on a low spot - then snap it in. Almost ashamed I didnt' think of that when I was 'struggling' with that damn expensive spring compression tool! Ha ha.

 

Thanks to all and yes mine has been open for 2 weeks also or more because it takes a week to get parts. Lol
I will be at dealer in couple hrs so will know what parts cost compared to online. Yes I don't want to rush it but hope I can have it all done by Wednesday. I will then leave my summary to things I re did twice or screwed up on when I first screwed up on. Lol

 

I'll bet you do not 'best me' on the re-did twice and screwed up tally.

 

Well dealer sales them each and are 25 bucks each x 24 omg rip off artist. I can get all 24 online to my door for 150 canadian.