OK, I removed my heater hoses and Dorman connectors and installed the Gates 90* quick-loks with the Power Grip bands using a heat gun. Speedtwin32 you were definitely right when you said those shrink and bite down. It was so easy to do those connections, I highly recommend it too. Like Speedtwin32 said, Just make sure you trial fit and have them exactly where you want them. Well I test drove and let it run today and so far the Gates 90's work like a charm. I will report any problems if any come up. Here are a few pics, of the gates 90's and Power Grip clamps. O' and I installed a Airaid Synthamax washable cone filter on my K&N CAI, part number 701-466. Also Gates makes a heater hose called Green stripe 2 ply. You can get it by the foot at O'Reillys. I think it is about $5.00 per foot off the roll. It is suppose to have a more durable cover and I think it has a higher psi rating also. I just used what I had since I already had it on hand.

 

FML!!! Passenger heater core side just started pouring water... not a drip, a stream! Ordered a set of Gates 90's to replace. And some lube.

 

Sorry to hear that. I installed the gates on just using antifreeze, I bet I should have used the lube I ordered. It is kind of thick and I bet that helps with a water tight seal. I may pop mine back off and go ahead and do that. I think that will help the O-rings from getting twisted and allow them to seal straight.

 

Like I said, they cost more so they had to work! LOL!! Well, you get what you pay for is true with most parts.

And yes, those thermo clamps ARE the bomb, very easy to use, glad they worked out for you.

I am still leak free, but if I ever develop any issue I will get the Gates.

 

Today I was going over everything under the hood and decided to make an attempt to get that evap hose out from under the driver side heater hose. So I did, but I almost broke it , because I didnt remove the heater hose and bent it around and straightened it out quite a bit. Anyway here are couple of pics on how I got it around. I used large plastic ties to pull it down to the body of the connection. There are 2 openings where 2 bolts are that hold down the body of what the electrical plug and evap end clips to. And where it wraps the fuel rail, put a tie there too. Its not going anywhere.

 

I called Gates automative technical support today,303-744-1911 had to leave a message and they called me back. I told the tech about the Dormans and my switch to the gates. I asked about installing their 90's and he said we should just have to lube them with some coolant and on the pipe would help. I asked what would cause them to leak and he said if in a Bind or Vibration. I know my Dormans did not leak with the OEM rings in them and I had them on the truck for 28 leak free days before installing the Gates. Also I was running the stock CAI not the K&N I have on now. I know the K&N causes a slight vibration when I get on it and I also have the Borla S-type no resonator, so I do get a little vibration from time to time. I am going to leave my Gates alone for now and see if I develop a leak with my current setup. Also Speedtwin32 has his passenger side hose routed different than SpeedViktm and I. Ours appears to be the same looping down and back up touching the firewall. I know before with the Dormans original O-rings both of my passenger side heater core started to leak. But after I put in the OEM O-rings I was good for that time. I wonder if you had a O-ring to roll or twist when you put that one on. I still think the Lube is a good idea and if I start to leak thats what I will try. Speedtwin32 keep us posted on yours too. I also took out my OEM O-rings from the Dormans and put the Dorman original O-rings back in and took them and my receipt back to O'Reillys and they refunded me all back. You just have to have the receipt (limited lifetime warranty).

 

I'm going to swap to the Gates 90's as soon as I get them, ordered from Amazon Marketplace so they don't have quantity info.

If that doesn't work then I'll do either rubber 90's with a coupler or plain 90's with hose over the barbs & clamps, eliminating the leaky quick disconnects completely. Hell, those QD's only serve the purpose of getting the trucks built faster and are probably a bad idea to begin with.

 

Still leak free!

Just need a new fuel door hinge assembly now, dammit!!

 

I was just wondering how you were doing, great on the connections and Im not going to ask about the fuel door as long as it can't leak liquid it will probably be easier to fix.

 

Yep, stock O-rings swapped were the ticket, still no leaks....too bad Dorman failed on that spec.

As to the fuel door issue, you can see my thread "Fuel Door Woes"....simple fix that saved me buying replacement assembly I didn't need, thank God for this forum and others!