The Leveling Kit Thread
The rake is engineered into the truck so that when you load the bed or tow that the truck will end up level and not nose-up. My 2017 screw FX4 was 2.5" higher in the rear than front. With a trailer or load my truck sat more or less level when it was stock and it towed just fine.
I wanted to fit larger tires/wheels and I wanted to get rid of the rake, so I leveled the truck with Bilstein 5100 shocks set to 2.1" and it sat almost perfectly level. I Wanted it level even when towing, so then I added Airlift Ride Control air springs to the rear that I use to level the truck back out when I tow. With no air, my truck squats 2.5" with my camper connected and with 70psi in the airbags it is leveled back out. The airbags also raise the rear spring rate so that the truck rides better when loaded now and is not bobbing up and down with the trailer connected over bumps. Overall, this setup tows my 3500 lb trailer way better than the stock setup.
I wanted to fit larger tires/wheels and I wanted to get rid of the rake, so I leveled the truck with Bilstein 5100 shocks set to 2.1" and it sat almost perfectly level. I Wanted it level even when towing, so then I added Airlift Ride Control air springs to the rear that I use to level the truck back out when I tow. With no air, my truck squats 2.5" with my camper connected and with 70psi in the airbags it is leveled back out. The airbags also raise the rear spring rate so that the truck rides better when loaded now and is not bobbing up and down with the trailer connected over bumps. Overall, this setup tows my 3500 lb trailer way better than the stock setup.
The rake is engineered into the truck so that when you load the bed or tow that the truck will end up level and not nose-up. My 2017 screw FX4 was 2.5" higher in the rear than front. With a trailer or load my truck sat more or less level when it was stock and it towed just fine.
I wanted to fit larger tires/wheels and I wanted to get rid of the rake, so I leveled the truck with Bilstein 5100 shocks set to 2.1" and it sat almost perfectly level. I Wanted it level even when towing, so then I added Airlift Ride Control air springs to the rear that I use to level the truck back out when I tow. With no air, my truck squats 2.5" with my camper connected and with 70psi in the airbags it is leveled back out. The airbags also raise the rear spring rate so that the truck rides better when loaded now and is not bobbing up and down with the trailer connected over bumps. Overall, this setup tows my 3500 lb trailer way better than the stock setup.
Nailing the amount of rake for a "level" does require some forethought. Jake's solution is probably the best because it is adjustable at the rear.
I did something similar, but used the Roadmaster Active Suspension to supplement the rear spring rate. I do not tow often but when I do it is with 100 lbs tongue weight. I keep 450-ish pounds of gear in the bed at all times, under a tonneau cover. Because of this I only lifted the front 1.5" using the Bilstein 6112s then 5160s out back (using the OEM rear spring shackle).
I had run the 5100s at stock height (with 1" drop shackles at the rear) for three years before this. Both setups are superb, with the 6112/5160 far more firm for pavement use (but not harsh!) but great for the really big bumps, dips and washouts.
Finally finished reading all 390 pages, wow! So quick back story I had 2013 Nissan Frontier Pro4x with a 2.5” spacer and 2” rear AAL with factory Bilstein struts and shocks. It drove and handled great and had no problems after 120,000 miles with the lift and 100,000 miles on 285/75/16 Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ’s. (Great tire by the way).
I traded it in on my 20 Fx4 SCREW for better camper towing and now I’m looking at lifting / leveling options. So I would like to go about 2.5” in the front and and keep about 3/4 to 1-1/4” rake in the rear but I see lots of mixed opinions about going this high. I also see different results due to probably different engine & factory strut / spring rates. I’ve seen on Rough country’s and Ready-lift’s sites, warnings about not using the 3” and 3.5” kits (respectively) if your center hub to fender lip is greater than 22”. My truck is sitting at about 22-5/8” (+/- 1/8”). My thinking is this would apply to spacer lifts since the advertised lift height should be closely achieved. However on a replacement strut or coil over this will be less relevant since the height would be based on the factory spring & strut that’s being replaced.
I’ve measured several trucks around town and they are almost all are sitting level at about 24-1/2” so I have to assume 2” levels to be the norm. Saw in the Q&A on rough country’s site that they said on an FX4 the 3” loaded N3 strut should net about 2.5” not 3”. I’m kinda leaning toward new struts as I don’t care much for the factory soft suspension but I’m wondering what I would actually gain since I’m a bit high already.
here’s the challenge if you choose to except!
Bilstein 5100
Eibach Pro-Truck Struts
Eibach Pro-Truck w/ pro lift springs
Rancho Quick Lift
2” Rough Country loaded N3 struts
3” Rough Country loaded N3 struts.
Curious if anyone has added a 1/2” spacer to any of these as well.
I traded it in on my 20 Fx4 SCREW for better camper towing and now I’m looking at lifting / leveling options. So I would like to go about 2.5” in the front and and keep about 3/4 to 1-1/4” rake in the rear but I see lots of mixed opinions about going this high. I also see different results due to probably different engine & factory strut / spring rates. I’ve seen on Rough country’s and Ready-lift’s sites, warnings about not using the 3” and 3.5” kits (respectively) if your center hub to fender lip is greater than 22”. My truck is sitting at about 22-5/8” (+/- 1/8”). My thinking is this would apply to spacer lifts since the advertised lift height should be closely achieved. However on a replacement strut or coil over this will be less relevant since the height would be based on the factory spring & strut that’s being replaced.
I’ve measured several trucks around town and they are almost all are sitting level at about 24-1/2” so I have to assume 2” levels to be the norm. Saw in the Q&A on rough country’s site that they said on an FX4 the 3” loaded N3 strut should net about 2.5” not 3”. I’m kinda leaning toward new struts as I don’t care much for the factory soft suspension but I’m wondering what I would actually gain since I’m a bit high already.
here’s the challenge if you choose to except!
- If you have first hand long term good or bad experience with 2.5” or greater lift with struts, coil overs, or spacers with or without new UCA’s on 4wd models please let me know.
- Here’s the big one! I would love to know your year measurements. Center hub to fender for consistency. Year, model, engine, lift method, brand, advertised amount or setting and any other options that could effect it (spacers welcome too). Once we get enough info I’ll compile a list and post it back. Maybe we can help make this a bit more predictable for folks in the future.
Everybody likes posting about their truck right! That’s why we’re here.
Bilstein 5100
Eibach Pro-Truck Struts
Eibach Pro-Truck w/ pro lift springs
Rancho Quick Lift
2” Rough Country loaded N3 struts
3” Rough Country loaded N3 struts.
Curious if anyone has added a 1/2” spacer to any of these as well.
Finally pulled the trigger on the Bilstein 6112 stage 3 kit from Stage 3 for my 2019 Lariat crew cab FX4 and was told the 6112 was backordered and is at least 6 weeks out. I emailed Bilstein and they responded that it likely will be longer as the manufacturing process is being upgraded. Just a heads up for anyone thinking about going this route as you might be in for a few month wait just like myself.
I had placed an order about 6 months ago on some Ranchos quick lift setup and got an email about 2 weeks ago that Ranchos would be delivered by Feb of 2022, CANCELED that order and got me some Eibach pro truck set up that I will be installing next week.
Having a set of bilstein 8112 installed today set at 1.5 their lowest setting. I placed the rear 8100 on the truck last Saturday. I am replacing the bilstein 5100 that were installed on all 4 corners.
I drive a 2015 platinum screw Fx4 / 3.5L EcoBoost with 6.5 bed
Pictures and first impressions to be posted in the near future for those who might care update:
After install the rake is 1.75
I drive a 2015 platinum screw Fx4 / 3.5L EcoBoost with 6.5 bed
Pictures and first impressions to be posted in the near future for those who might care update:
After install the rake is 1.75
Last edited by leckbandg; Oct 28, 2021 at 08:26 PM.
I too have ridden on those great 5100s for three years before I switched to 6112 front/5160 rears...
The second position from the top for the spring saddle circlip on the Bilstein 6112 front shock body will result in 1.5" of lift. The top position would be 2" (the five options are stock ride height [bottom clip groove], .5", 1.0", 1.5" and 2").
Is that what you meant?
At first I was surprised at the super-taught feel of the 6112/5160, but while super firm it is never harsh. I love it now and would not go back, but the 5100s are great too.
The 6112/5160 combo is great for eating the bigger bumps.
The second position from the top for the spring saddle circlip on the Bilstein 6112 front shock body will result in 1.5" of lift. The top position would be 2" (the five options are stock ride height [bottom clip groove], .5", 1.0", 1.5" and 2").
Is that what you meant?
At first I was surprised at the super-taught feel of the 6112/5160, but while super firm it is never harsh. I love it now and would not go back, but the 5100s are great too.
The 6112/5160 combo is great for eating the bigger bumps.
See! Glad you clarified that one. I haven't looked at their offerings for a couple of years. I was unfamiliar with that part/model number.
Thanks again! and def looking forward to pics.
Thanks again! and def looking forward to pics.






