@OoOJokerOoO congrats. I am still waiting for my VXDIAG to come in. So hopefully I will be joining you in the club.

So what did you do to clear up those last codes that you had? Was it just the calibration?

 

The last error was the because my ABS ECU still was to be replaced. Got the PMI and IVD run on it. Made the ABS Forscan change then ran the apply and release procedure in Forscan. Cleared an error in a PAM module about loosing communication with the ABS module. Cleared that error and now I am error free..

 

That is great news man. I’m glad it all worked out for you too!

The brake is a little jerky on mine too in the city.

 

Credit to KR2019, JonsF150, s_vares and a few others for most of the items here however I have filled in a few of the blanks on questions that I had since I was a noob at this. Note I have a 2019 502a + tech 3.5 Eco Boost SCREW. I also want to give a shout out to the 2018 ACC thread and the members there for blazing the trail for us 2019 folk.

Tools Needed
Ratchet Set
Upholstery tool remover (claw type)
e-Torque socket set
Combination Square
Sharpie or Marking Pencil (marking black steel)
small flat screwdriver
Magnet retrieval tool (hopefully you don't need this one)
Ramps (optional for more clearance when working underneath)
Torque wrench (in/lbs)
Small torX driver set


Battery - Disconnect it.

Bumper - Remove it.
1. Remove the 2 black plastic covers on front of bumper. They can be pulled off by hand when starting from the inside edge (center of vehicle side).
2. For us northern folk, remove the clip holding the engine block heater plug. I used an upholstery trim removal tool but anything with a fork in it will work.
3. From the underside of the bumper you will need to reach up and disconnect your 2 x fog light connectors
4. Remove the 2 nuts on the front. if your vehicle has some miles on it, the area around the nuts is probably dirty marking the location if not mark it with a sharpie or white marking pencil.
5. Get another person to hold the bumper in place while you do the next step.
6. Remove one nut on the back side (nut is vertical and lower, tire side than nuts removed in steps 4. Mark the location again if necessary.
7. Bumper can now be placed aside for a moment.

Wiring Harness - Replace it with stock one from list above

Harness 1 of 2 (assuming LED fog lights)
1. Remove plastic shroud around radiator louvres (looks like a rectangular plastic box near center of vehicle once bumper is off. There are 16 clips holding it on (4 per side). Starting with the bottom ones then both sides should allow you to pop the top ones with your fingers. (I tipped it up when i got the 3 sides off).
2.. Remove the harness one clip at a time starting at main connector on the right side near where fog light was. (I connected the new one as I was going to ensure that I was using the same path for the new harness.
3. When you get to the driver side, there will be a 4 wire connector next to rad. It seems counter intuitive but the connector your are disconnecting was the inside one (next to rad) and not the outside one (closest to tire)

Harness 2 of 2 (the CCM harness)
4. There are 2 ends on this harness, locate the smaller 4 wire side and notice the retainer clip that holds it to the bumper can be removed by sliding in a small flat head screwdriver under it and sliding it off.
5. Looking at the bumper, driver side, from above you will notice a small "triangular" opening nearest the fog light. You will need to insert the harness beginning from the front up through this opening.
6. I left the retainer clips for this harness loose till the end as I wasn't sure which hole to use where until it was reassembled

Reinstall the Bumper
Basically this will be the reverse of the removal with the following comments
- Plug in your CCM harness as you are holding the bumper in place however not yet bolted
- Remember all those marks we made to note the nut locations, you can use those now to ensure the bumper is level and pressed up enough (against the grill and light assemblies)
- As you are putting on the nuts, (I started with the one on the back of the bumper) pay special attention on the driver side ensuring you don't pinch the new CCM harness (it will seem pinched till you get it up into position at which point it will move freely)

Install CAD sensor module (C-CM)

Install mounting bracket
1. I remove all the retainer clips (4) from the driver side black cover as at the time they seemed to be in the way at the time but not sure if that was the case afterwards.
2. Install the 4 clip bolts. The bottom left and bottom right clips go on the bracket while the top 2 actually go on the bumper itself inside the cavity.
3. Notice that this will require both of the lower bolt holes (on the bracket) need to be behind the adjoining bumper holes however the top 2 bolts holes (on the bracket) need to be in front.
4. I inserted the bracket in behind the 2 lower bumper bolt holes with the bottom left hole of the bracket disappearing into the small triangular pocket on the bottom of the bumper
5. Once you get the bracket back into it's final resting position carefully thread the 4 bolts through the hole (hopefully you don't need the magnetic retrieval tool like I did *facepalm*) 42 in/lbs 4.8Nm
6. Tighten everything up on the bracket 42 in/lbs 4.8Nm

Install the sensor
7. Grab your 3 sensor ball studs. Notice the top stud is longer and smaller (thinner) than the other 2.
8. Install the top and left stud.
9. Plug in sensor into your awaiting harness connector
10. Feed the last bolt through the bottom right hole and install it into it's final resting position
11. Install the 3 nuts to the CCM sensor using 9 in/lbs 1Nm

Assumes vehicle is on level ground
12 Using your combo square (remove ruler), place it flat against the sensor and using your e-torque socket back off the top adjustment screw till the sensor is vertically level (top and bottom... mine was about 1/3 of the way back out). (I used a 4' level to confirm ground was level and adjusted sensor "levelness" to match ground "levelness" as I wasn't on perfectly level surface. No need to level left or right as the software does that during calibration.

Install Steering Wheel Controls
This part assumes you are doing this all as one step. If not, DISCONNECT BATTERY for at least 30 min before attempting this step (some will argue you don't have to wait this long but I would rather not have an airbag in the face thank you very much)
1. Using a turkey / candy thermometer or something shaped similarly poke it into the left and right side of your steering wheel and gently tug on that side of airbag.
2. Your turkey thermometer is basically pushing a retention clip past a hook inside. Once one side comes out about 1/4", move to the other side
3. Now that you are looking at the back of the airbag using a small flat head screw driver, pry up the 2 orange clips on the back of the orange connector. They will click when all the way up and can then be used to remove both the connectors from the airbag
4. Note the colors to make sure you plug them in back the same way.
5. Place the airbag onto the top of the center portion of the steering wheel
6. There will be a red and green retention clip on the bottom left and right of the steering wheel, gently light them up off the silver trim
7. Starting at the top left corner of the silver trim , slowly and gently pull it out using your fingers (they are only pressure fittings) and disconnect the trim piece from the steering wheel
8. Disconnect both button assemblies from their respective harnesses
9. Using a small torque screwdriver, remove the 4 screws on the back of the left side button assembly
10. Replace button assembly with part provided above and screw back in ( I had a second person unscrew and screw the new one in while I held the trim in my hands
11. Plug both button assemblies back into their sensors.
12. Push Trim back into its pressure fitting holes until it's nice and tight against wheel
13. Slide the red and green fittings back onto the trim
14. Reinstall the connectors into the airbag and push the orange clips down
15. Slowly reinstall airbag into position. You should hear a 2 clicks (one for each side) when reinstalled correctly.

IPMA Installation
I did not have to do this step as I already had the right camera on my vehicle.
IPMA – Remove old unit and install new unit. Which is above rearview mirror. If you don’t have Lane Keeping on your truck or IPMA listed, you may have to replace the windshield.

Reconnect Battery

See second post for remainder of changes.

 

Forscan Changes Set 1 of 2
1. Make the following changes in Forscan
IPMA - 706-01-01xxxx 9xxx 69E7

IPC - 720-01-01 xFxx xxxx xxxx
IPC - 720-01-02 xxxx 9xFx xxxx
IPC - 720-04-01 Exxx x1xx xxxx
IPC - 720-09-01 xxxx xxxx 2xxx

SCCM - 724-03-01 19xx xxxx xx

BCM - 726-13-01 xx90 6xxx xxxx

CCM - 764-01-01 05xx xxxx xx. First four of the vin.*
CCM - 764-01-02 xxxx xxxx xx. Next five of the vin. *
CCM - 764-01-03 xxxx xxxx xx. Next five of the vin. *
CCM - 764-01-04 xxxx xx00 001x. Last three of the vin*.
CCM - 764-01-05 0000 0071
*Vin in HEX

2.Clear all DTCs (you may have multiple) You should be able to get rid of all of them except ABS U2101 - Incompatible configuration
3. I did not have to change the IPMA so I did not run the IPMA calibration.
4. Run the C-CM calibration
5. Clear all DTCs (you may have multiple) You should be able to get rid of all of them except ABS U2101 - Incompatible configuration

At this point you should have the following IPC error when you start your truck (Normal Cruise Active, Adaptive Cruise Control Not Available) and the one DTC as mentioned above. Your cruise and remote start for that matter will not work at all. All the IPC items will show up however will be greyed out so you will not be able to change them.

Replace ABS ECU
I will be honest I literally dropped my vehicle off at a buddies shop and ran some errands but these are the steps he took. Must be done on a level surface.
1. Using IDS start the PMI procedure
2. When prompted, replace the old ABS ECU with the new one. 4 bolts @ 27 in/lb 8Nm
3. Complete PMI procedure
4. On a level surface perform the IVD which should be recommended after PMI procedure.
5. Using IDS clear all DTCs except the again ABS U2101 - Incompatible Configuration.

Forscan Change Set 2 of 2
1. Make the following change in Forscan
ABS - 760-03-01 Fxxx xx. Could be D if you don’t have the Hill Decent Switch installed.
2. Run ABS apply and release procedure
3. Clear any DTCs (They should all go away at this point)

Change Cruise to Adaptive
1. In the IPC change the Cruise Control mode from Normal to Adaptive

Welcome to the ACC w/ Stop and Go club!

Parts List
CADS (CCM)- JX7Z-9E731-E
ABS Control module- KL3Z-2C219-D
IPMA- KL3Z-19G490-A **
** If you do not have IPMA listed above you will need this
Switch Assembly- JL3Z-9C888-FA
Bracket- JL3Z-14C022-A
Wire park sensor- JL3Z-15K867-B
Wire Parking- JL3Z-15K867-G ** (LED FOG)
**This will depend on if you have LED fog or not.
Spring nut (3)- N800296-S900
Bolt and Washer (4)- W505424-S900
Nut Flanged (4)-W520802-S900
Nut (3)- W705817-S441
Stud (2)- W717467-S439
Stud - W717468-S439

 

My new CCM came on the mail today, installed it, did asbuilt, ran calibration, cleared codes, now everything is working 100%

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Lots of great info and if I add advice, be very careful regarding part numbers 😂

 

Well I am glad to hear that it worked for you. Welcome to the club

 

I started this project when @KR2019 started this post a year ago and I was stalled at the IDS process. Then @Livnitup tried a couple of installs to see if he would be able to get the process into ForScan and it didn't work and he helped me out with my CCM install and programming. Then @fordpiper talked about VCM II device to use IDS and @s_vares used the VXDIAG VCX Nano interface which was cheaper and there was a discussion about using IDS or FJDS. Then some had issues with IDS working while other did not so there are alternatives than paying to get this done at the dealership.

So I purchased the VXDIAG tool and received it after a couple of weeks and today I downloaded FJDS and purchased the 2 days license for $50.

I had my bumps such as needing to reinstall the VCI manager again because FJDS didn't recognize it. Having some minor issues with the programming of the ABS module with additional messages that wasn't on the video that came up. And getting an ABS DTC error which I thought I changed prior to the ABS programming but probably didn't save it but after an hour or so of tinkering I finally got it to work.

So I am in the "club" now. I did test it and it did work as it should including coming to a stop.

So I have to say that everyone in the forum is super helpful and they provide their experience which we all learn from or at least I have. So I have to thank everyone. If there is anyone in the Cincinnati area that needs an interface to do an IDS procedure, let me know and I'll let you use it.

 

My CCM came few days ago, plugged it in but forscan doesn't see it, am i doing something wrong or did i get a bad CCM?

 

when you connected your vehicle to Forscan and it detects your VIN make sure you select no to load your profile. This forces it to scan all your modules again. If you don’t it simply gets the state for the previously detected modules.

this assumes it is installed and properly connected.