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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 07:51 PM
  #8921  
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Originally Posted by Salvador Rodriguez
i have a 98 f150 with a 4.6L. My issue is that the truck starts but when it is put in drive or reverse it stalls out. Have switched out a lot of the throttle area. Body, idle valve, Hoses. Checked vacuum leaks and nothing seems to fix the problem. I was told by a friend of mine who thinks it could be the torque converter. But I’m not sure. I just want to get this truck fixed ASAP.

Thanks.!
Guys please tell me I'm just a grumpy old man with get off my lawn syndrome... it seems skylar may be back with a few little things switched? He likes to make usernames with full names... and was today is first day free from his ban?
Old Dec 2, 2018 | 08:34 PM
  #8922  
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I won't bet against it!
And if it *is* Skylar, then I see this coming:



..

Last edited by OhioLariat; Dec 2, 2018 at 08:48 PM.
Old Dec 2, 2018 | 08:48 PM
  #8923  
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Originally Posted by ohiolariat
i won't bet against it!
And if it *is* skylar, then i see this coming:



..
lolol
Old Dec 3, 2018 | 10:10 AM
  #8924  
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Originally Posted by fordguy2100
So flushed the core, poured the Prestone radiator flush into it, let it sit for 20 mins, flushed again. Switched hoses, flushed again, switched back (heater core outlet -> hose and heater core inlet
-> hose dump into bucket) and flushed for about 8mins.

Never saw a ton of gunk or discolored coolant/water at all like lost people claim to see. But the water pressure coming out was pretty equal to the hose going in. Once coolant was flushed it was clear water the entire time (minus when it was the Prestone coming out). So now I have heat when I'm driving/higher Rpms but while sitting in the drive thru idling the heat started to fade. Took off and the heat went back up.
So failing water pump or semi clogged heater core?
My bet is on water pump. I would rather change that than the heater core any day. lol
Old Dec 3, 2018 | 10:22 AM
  #8925  
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Originally Posted by jprevat
My bet is on water pump. I would rather change that than the heater core any day. lol
I'm hoping it's the water pump over the heater core but that V6 is crammed into that escapes engine bay... not going to be fun either way. Plus the belt isn't tensioned on so I get to jump it off and back on and pray I don't brake anything or lose a finger lol. There any other ways to confirm it's one or the other before I take it off?
Old Dec 3, 2018 | 10:44 AM
  #8926  
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I don't know about confirming, but I agree that it's likely the pump. It makes perfect sense. Insufficient flow at idle, better at higher RPM. I'd expect the engine temp to be higher (or too high) as well, but with the cooler weather, that might not happen.
Old Dec 3, 2018 | 10:53 AM
  #8927  
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Originally Posted by OhioLariat
I don't know about confirming, but I agree that it's likely the pump. It makes perfect sense. Insufficient flow at idle, better at higher RPM. I'd expect the engine temp to be higher (or too high) as well, but with the cooler weather, that might not happen.
Yeah the needle is dead center and never moves. Had no heat at the end of last winter but went thru all summer no problem. I looked into prices and wow the pump is way cheaper than I was expecting. I'll look into the replacement process and may just do it anyway... worst case consider it preventative maintenance.
Old Dec 3, 2018 | 02:20 PM
  #8928  
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I don't remember, does the 3.0 have a heater control valve? The 2.3 does not, but I do have some limited experience with my Brother's 3.0 that he had.
Old Dec 3, 2018 | 02:24 PM
  #8929  
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Also... what t-stat did you use?
Old Dec 3, 2018 | 02:42 PM
  #8930  
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Originally Posted by white89gt
Also... what t-stat did you use?
Motorcraft 188° t stat (part# RT1175)

And I don't believe it's got a heater control valve.



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