2100......things being clogged was one of the first things we discussed. I'd take the air needles out and make sure that they are open with air. All it takes is a piece of crap and they won't idle for anything. When I was talking about the top off the carb and it running, I was talking about working on it in shop, and seeing if everything is working correctly. With those Ford/Autolite carbs, it was common to set the floats with the top off, and engine running. lol. Old School stuff.

I agree with the starter button on a Ford. The vacuum gauge is indispensable when setting up a carb for maximum efficiency. Are you using a vacuum gague when you are running, even at high speed to see where it is? On the side dripping, if the float is too high, it will overflow and it can run down the shafts to the outside. It isn't going to happen when you have things right, unless the shaft goes up and down and sideways from wear. Otherwise, just go with the bushings having a small amount of wear.

I don't think I ever realized just how much size difference there is between the 7700/Expy calipers vs the 150 callipers. For something that looks very similar, there is a major difference when set side by side. If you pulled the 150 calipers and replaced them later, and didn't see the difference, you wouldn't think much of it. Laying them side by side, is a real eye opener. I didnt' take a good picture when the wheels were off, but you can see in this picture that the red calipers stand out in the front.

 

 

LOL... yeah, those are simple. If you maintain those well... i.e. don't let them sit with gas for several months, they generally just do what you want them to. I have a champion generator that I need to clean up the carb... thanks for the reminder.

I give 2100 some kudos though.. I would have thrown in the towel and bought an Edelbrock by now. LOL.

 

Which of the two are better?

 

Dumb question... should gasket be between shield and carb as pictured or between shield and float valve?

Also AK you mentioned this carb was a 2150 not a 2100.... I just noticed my rebuild kit was for a 2100 will that make a difference?

 

Thought about purchasing a generator, but man, it would get such little use and glad I didn't. But I could use one now. Well I could use a larger welder on occasion. Welders double as as generator, maybe I go that route to get more of moneys worth.

 

Looking at that top picture, I have a question. Where the mixture cap goes, you are using a gasket right? Also, are you installing the ball and rod in the center hole of the 5, before bolting it down? I'm sure you have and are, just asking.

The 2100 is just the early version of the 2150. 2150 has the pull down on the top back of the air horn. Is the power valve the same design as the one your took out? It shouldn't make a difference, but I thought the original had a small bump on the end when it went into the bowl. Yours looks flat across the surface. That might be another manufacturers design.

All in all it looks like you have everything right. Just make sure you have everything blown out when you put it back together. To get the most right off, set the choke cover to 2 Rich. That will keep the choke on a bit longer for the warm up and maybe keep the idle up for you.

 

Yes I have a gasket there. The ball and valve are installed in the #5 along with the gasket. Made sure to blow those holes out too. In fact I blew literally every dent and hole out of the carb lol. Going to give it another try here in a few minutes. I'll change it to 2Rich and see if That helps.

I'm thinking my needles may not be perfect. Might see if autozone or Napa has some to try

Yeah hears my old powervalve and another one I took out of a junk carb. both are flat

 

If the needles are a bit rough, you can take some fine (400 or 600) grit sand paper and smooth them out. You won't find new needles in a parts store., Maybe a carb shop but that would be about it. I highly doubt they are damaged so it won't idle. Since you have a zipper on this carb no, just for chits and grins, how about installing your old Power Valve in it. Since vacuum is what controls it, it can't hurt to try. Have you tried to cap the lines (except PCV) both on the carb and the lines to it to see if vacuum is your culprit yet?

 

Alright good news! It's running!
Cleaning it out did nothing lol. I had to adjust the screw on the throttle rod and it started to idle (I had been asking about that screws setting lol)

Anyway it was running and idling so I had my wife take a video.... then it stumbled and blew vapor out. Started it again and it ran and idled but stumbles a little after throttle. Here are the videos if you have any guidance. Thanks for sticking with me and helping me out. I definitely learned a lot in this thread hijack!