Hahahahahahaha......

 

Maybe it's an old fashion situation ? But shoot, what's old fashion now a days...Woodstock ?

 

Hahaha yes my phrasing was all out of whack there.

 

I suppose you do have a point there. I reckon we could say that would be old fashioned.

 

Ya think? lol

 

Holy mackerel. About to drive out to the new house for the home inspection. Wonder what this is going to bring.... besides 400 dollars being absent from my wallet.

 

Check this out guys, I've never seen an actual side by side of the two radiators. It's more than twice as thick as the factory one. The little one also had a lot of white stuff built up inside it. Calcium? Anyways. Here's a pic.

 

White....is the $400 part of your closing costs or something extra in Utah?

Drill....calcium/oxidation build up in aluminum radiators sure does cut down their cooling effectiveness. This is why I went to the radiator first. In your case, you had the least of the cooling possibilities, so any restrictions would cause the temps to go up and up. Hope this fixes your problem (I'm sure it will, lol).

 

Helped tremendously, drive 30 miles home with the AC on full blast, never got above 206, and stayed at 200 most of the time. The trans temp didn't get any higher than 182 and while idling it was actually dropping. Never saw that before.

What are the do's and dont's of thermostats? I know Motorcraft is the go to, but is there a 180 or 170 degree one or is that a no no with these. I'd like to get the temps a bit lower if I can.

 

Drill.....you need to keep the 192-195 stat for all the sensors to read correctly. If you don't, you can throw codes or make the PCM compensate with more fuel, etc. Gates does make 170 and 180 and 205 degree stats that fit our engines. I'm partial to the 195.